Bren on The Road

Category: Destinations

  • What Happens In An Amsterdam Coffee Shop?

    What Happens In An Amsterdam Coffee Shop?

    Amsterdam is known globally for it’s “coffee shop culture”, but most people don’t know what it’s actually like inside one.

    Neither did I, so my dorm buddy Chris and I decided to go find out.

    Coffee shops aren’t hard to find. In central Amsterdam you’ll find many of them scattered through the grid of bakeries and pizza joints and bars and clubs.

    But before we get to what happens inside, some of you may still be unaware of what Amsterdam coffee shops actually are.

    As I’m sure you’ve guessed, Amsterdam coffee shops aren’t like other regular coffee shops around the world. In Amsterdam those are known as a koffiehuis or a café.

    An Amsterdam coffee shop is a place where people go to buy and smoke cannabis. Think of it like the Amsterdam version of a dispensary crossed with a cafe. Cannabis has been decriminalised in the Netherlands since 1972, and “coffee shop” is the term used for the legal dispensaries of the product. If you want to be doubly sure, you can check the green and white license that should be displayed by the door.

    If you’re a foreigner, it’s best to keep your coffee shop experience to Amsterdam. While they’re operational around the country, many other cities require a Dutch ID or have outright bans on foreigners. Amsterdam is definitely the friendliest city for coffee shop tourism.

    Because there are so many coffee shops in Amsterdam nowadays, it’s always good to get a recommendation. We were told to try the 420 cafe, so that’s where we headed.

    As soon as we get inside I notice it’s a little smokey (obviously) and smells how you might expect it to smell, but it’s actually pleasant and not suffocating or anything. The place looks like any regular pub – a long bar lined with barstools, a few tables along the wall, and a few more cosy corners to lounge in. I wasn’t sure whether it would be cool to take a photo so I kept my camera in my pocket.

    The guy behind the bar gives me a friendly greeting and asks if he can help. I ask if we can see the menu, and he points me down to the other end of the bar where another staff member is standing.

    We look over the menu quickly and ask if she can explain the different items. A lot of people just choose the cheapest strain or the one with the coolest name, but it’s a good idea to understand the differences between each one, especially if you don’t smoke often.

    While explaining each strain, she also opens up a huge container of the buds and lets us look at them and smell them. It’s really odd seeing that much weed out in the open in one place.

    When she’s finished we ask if she can recommend one.

    “Try the NY Diesel,” she says. “That’s a good one.”

    “But it sounds kinda strong, will we be messed up?”

    “No it will be fine, you guys smoke a lot of weed, right?”

    We both look at each other and laugh.

    “Well actually no, not really…”

    “Oh! Well maybe you should try the Haze instead. That’s a nice one.”

    We give the box another smell, and then go ahead and buy a gram of the 420 Haze. She weighs it out on her little stainless steel scale, as if we’re buying spices at the market. Then she pops it in a little ziplock bag and hands it to us.

    “Have fun,” she smiles.

    We go find a seat at the bar and roll it up. The cool thing is they provide you with rolling papers and matches and everything else you need, so you really can just show up any time you want and indulge. There’s also a big jar of a herbal mix with tea and sage and other stuff – people use this to mix their product, because you aren’t allowed to smoke tobacco inside.

    When Chris finally lights it up he takes a long drag and then holds his head.

    “Oh my god dude it’s so strong,” he laughs.

    He hits it again and then hands it to me.

    Then it’s time for drinks. The interesting thing about coffee shops is they’re not actually allowed to serve alcohol – they can serve cannabis or booze but not both.

    Their drinks menu is sodas, coffees, teas and hot chocolate.

    We both order tea and choose a hipster flavoured tea bag from the box in front of us. And then we just…chill.

    Sitting beside us are two middle aged guys, each holding joints as fat as cigars. They were sitting there talking and smoking when we arrived and were still going when we left.

    Behind us, a couple of girls are sharing a joint and scrolling through their phones.

    Next to them, a table of young guys playing cards.

    In the corner, a group of people who look like they’ve been sitting there smoking since yesterday.

    When the tea and the joint is finished, Chris and I just sit there and watch Animal Planet, which is playing on the big screen. We chat with the Italian guy behind the bar who tells us all about the shop and what it’s like living in Amsterdam.

    “You see this place, it’s full of Italians. This is all Italians do, smoke weed and do nothing. That’s why we’re the worst country in Europe right now,” he laughs.

    Chris and I spend the next hour talking about travelling, girls, podcasts, life. Then, before we know it, it’s nearly 1 a.m – closing time.

    We grab our stuff and head out the door, still buzzed, ready for a good night’s sleep. No expensive drinks, no shots, no hangovers, no cover charges, no fights, no drunken ordeals. Just a peaceful evening and an early night.

    Maybe Amsterdam has got it right after all.

     
     
     
     
     
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    Tips for a good Amsterdam coffee shop experience

    Choose the right spot. There are so many coffee shops in Amsterdam these days, so there’s no need to go somewhere you’re not feeling 100%. An Amsterdam regular I was talking to said ten years ago there were some crappy places around, but nowadays most of them have been weeded out (ha ha) and the shops in the centre are all pretty good. Ask around, get some recommendations, and then visit a few and see which one you like. Many of them are within a small radius in the city centre anyway.

    Ask questions. Don’t be afraid to ask questions about the menus and the different products. Many first timers head to Amsterdam coffee shops, including many people who haven’t even seen marijuana before, so the staff won’t laugh at you. Each strain will have a different effect on you, so ask as many questions as you can to ensure you get something you like! If the staff don’t have time for your questions, head somewhere else.

    Do your homework. It’s a good idea to learn a bit about the plant before you go. Do you know the difference between eating and smoking cannabis? Do you know the difference between the indica and sativa plants? Even ten minutes on Google will help a lot before you head out to the shops! With the medical marijuana industry developing at light speed and legalisation happening around the globe, the world is slowly becoming more educated on cannabis and there is information everywhere.

    First time? Take it slow! Even one or two puffs will put a decent buzz on you, so be careful not to overdo it. A coffee shop is a place to lay back and relax, so there’s no need to rush. If you do end up smoking too much or too fast and your body doesn’t like it, just drink some water and don’t panic. Nobody ever died from smoking too much weed. A good night’s sleep will bring you back to normal.

    Take a tour! Amsterdam is one of the most visited cities in the world and there are plenty of great tour offerings around. If you’re new to the cannabis scene, I would recommend taking a coffee shop tour like this one. You’ll learn about the history, the different strains, and get walked door to door through the coffee shop scene in Amsterdam.

    Another thing first timers should note is that in a lot of these places you roll your own joints or bring your own smoking equipment. Most places will supply rolling papers and roaches/filters but if you’ve never smoked before, chances are you don’t know how to roll. If that’s the case don’t panic! A lot of shops sell pre-rolled joints too, or you can ask a friendly neighbour or staff member to roll one for you. Alternatively, you can try eating some cannabis food items instead, which many shops sell also. Remember, don’t worry – these guys see first timers every day.

    Stay safe and have fun 😉

    Looking For Help Planning Your Trip?

    If you’re heading to Amsterdam and want some help planning/visiting the coffee shops, you can find some great organised tours on GetYourGuide!

    I’ve used GetYourGuide all around the world, such as during my Edge Of The World trip in Saudi Arabia, or my Mt Sinai hike in Egypt. The prices are great and booking is super easy.

    If you’re looking for somewhere to stay near the coffee shop area in Amsterdam, you’ll want something around the canal district.

    Coffeeshops are clustered in a few different areas, but my recommendation would be Hotel Sebastians. It’s one block away from a street filled with great coffeeshops, meaning you’re not right in the thick of it, but you’re just two or three minutes walk away. You’ll find the best rates here.

    For something more budget friendly, go with the Mozart Hotel. It’s in a cheaper area of the city, but still many good coffeeshops around just one or two blocks away. Best rates here.

    Also be sure to check out my Amsterdam city guide, breaking down the best places to stay and things to do 🙂

  • Memories of Málaga: To Where It All Began

    Memories of Málaga: To Where It All Began

    It was just happenstance that I found myself back in this city. I’d just finished the Camino with my family, and after some wandering we’d ended up here, in Málaga. After a few days in town, they’d all boarded their flights back to New Zealand, and here I was, in the middle of Plaza de la Merced, on my own again.

    I can’t lie, that’s always a funny moment when I say bye to my family on the road. First, it’s a little bit awkward. There’s a hug and another hug and then they say bye. Then the taxi drives off, and I kind of smile, like oh ok, they’re gone.

    As I walk off, it’s just numb for a while.

    And then it comes. For about fifteen seconds, an overwhelming gush of loneliness. It’s like when you say goodbye to a good travel buddy, but a million times deeper, a million times more real. That feeling of someone leaving you, of you leaving someone, in a foreign place. It can’t be described. Sometimes, I struggle to fight back tears. Because suddenly it’s not just oh, they’re gone, but it’s like oh, they’re gone.

    And then, a few seconds pass and you shake it off. You have to. And that vagabond feeling comes rumbling back. You realise it’s just you and the road once more.

    So many possibilities now.

    This is what we live for.

    This is what we do.

    The first thing I did was check into a hostel. Of course Mama always books nice guesthouses for us, but once she’s gone I’m back on the backpacker budget. I find a place pretty close by, a dorm bed is nine euros a night. Nine euros is good. I can do nine euros all day.

    When I get there, I’m greeted by a petite Italian girl, who has the most Italian accent ever. She’s the receptionist. I follow up her up the stairs, and the first thing I notice are the blackened soles of her feet. That’s the tell tale sign of a hippie girl. Always walking around barefoot, with dirty feet. Usually in short shorts or elephant pants. And messy hair. Check, check, check.

    I get to the dorm and collapse. It’s like a tradition now, when you get to a new dorm. Maybe you’re not even tired, but you just put your bags down and then just collapse on the bed. Then you lie there for a while, wondering what the hell to do.

    Eat? Nah.

    Walk around? Mmm. Nah.

    Just lie here and do nothing? Yeah. Good plan.

    The next day, I decide to go shopping. I need to buy shoes, and shorts. I head to a big department store in the centre, El Corte Ingles. Once inside, I wonder why on earth I came here. Everything is expensive and shitty. Shoes for $200 with a stupid crocodile on the side.

    I leave and walk around some other shops in the centre. As I walk around, I slowly rebuild the picture of these streets in my head.

    You see, this isn’t my first time in Málaga. I came here seven years ago, on my first ever solo trip, to study Spanish. That trip changed my life. The friends I made on that trip, the things I learned about myself, about the world.

    As I walk along the old streets, I realise I still remember everything.

    That’s where Philip drank two large Cokes that morning because he was so hungover.

    That’s the place we all ate tapas and the Swedes drank too much.

    That’s where I bought that blue shirt that I still wear today sometimes.

    I remember it all, how special it felt at the time. Nobody forgets their first solo trip. It was the trip that changed everything. It inspired me to see the world.

    Now here I am again, seven years later, and I’ve seen the world. As I chat in Spanish to strangers on the street – much of it learned at that school just a short bus ride away – wandering solo like it’s just an ordinary Wednesday, I think about how much life has changed. Walking these streets again is like returning home to see an old mentor. It’s like I came back, just to say thank you, and to let them know, I did it.

    That next day, I meet a French girl cooking in the hostel kitchen. Until now I’ve been the only one cooking in the kitchen. But now there’s a French girl in the kitchen. She’s using my pot. I mean it’s not really my pot, but I use it all the time, so I feel like it’s my pot. She’s a quirky, artsy girl.

    Actually, I have no idea if she has any quirk, or artistic talent. It’s probably just the dark rimmed glasses.

    Her name is Kathy.

    I can’t remember what Kathy and I talk about, but we talk for a long time. Now that I think about it, Kathy was telling me a lot about moving to Málaga, and she couldn’t find a place to stay, so she was staying here. So my pot was cooking, and I sat on the bench listening to her, while she cut up her salad, which looked like absolute shit.

    I ask her if that’s classic French food. She laughs. She knows it looks shit. From this conversation, I can already tell, Kathy is gonna be my hostel buddy.

    In every hostel you go to, you have a hostel buddy. It’s like the first person you meet, usually you arrive at the same time, and so you have this weird bond. Like hey, I met you on my first day, so we’re like, friends now.  That conversation was enough for Kathy and I to become hostel buddies.

    Later that evening, I walk into the lounge and see Kathy talking to some guy. His name is Dino.

    Dino is a short, wiry, smiley Englishman. I don’t know how old he is, but I’m going to guess early forties. He’s one of those bike guys – those guys who just ride their bicycle everywhere, and chill out at the bar in bicycle shorts. They’re actually quite common on the hostel circuit. Right now he’s riding his bike all around Spain, or something. That sounds kind of fun. I should do that some day.

    The next day I decide I need some exercise, maybe from seeing Dino’s rippled forearms the day before, so I head down to the beach. It’s a half hour walk, and there’s a public outdoor gym there, I guess for people to burn off all their late night plates of paella. I pump iron for about half an hour, then hide in the shade. Spanish sun is serious business.

    Then, in the distance I see a girl sunbathing topless on the beach.

    It’s weird.

    This isn’t a topless beach.

    She’s the only one.

    And then I get the smart idea to go and talk to her.

    Me: Brendan, don’t be stupid, leave her alone.

    Other me: No Brendan, face your fears, this will be good for you.

    Me: Seriously, you’re just going to go talk to her? She’ll think you’re a freakin weirdo.

    Other me: Who cares what she thinks bro, just go, this is how legends are made.

    This conversation goes on in my head for half an hour while I sit in the shade. My heart rate is elevated. This will be a first, I’ve never gone and talked to a girl on the beach before. When I hear myself say that, my mind changes. Because if you’ve never done something before, you have to do it. Are you really going to die having never talked to a topless girl on the beach?

    I stand up and walk up to her. I’m dripping in sweat, wearing the most homeless looking clothes ever.

    No excuses. Just go.

    [in Spanish]

    “Uhh…..hi….

    …I was just walking by, I wanted to say hello.”

    She’s actually smiling. Is she fake smiling or real smiling?

    “Oh. Hello.”

    She sits up to talk to me. This is going 300x better than I expected.

    “Do you always sunbathe without clothes?”

    “Yeah, I like it this way.”

    “You know in my country, you can’t do that. Police will come and tell you to put your clothes back on.”

    “That’s strange.”

    “Yeah, it is.”

    We continue to talk for a few minutes, about small stuff. Then I start to feel like a weirdo, so I decide it’s time to go.

    “I’ve gotta go. But shall we get a drink?”

    She looks at me.

    “Now?”

    “No, later some time!”

    “Sure.”

    I save her number, and high five her, and say bye, and walk off. My heart thumps so hard, like I’ve just survived a near death experience. Maybe I have.

    As I walk back to the hostel, I feel invincible. Everything is possible now. I’m a legend. I can already see life changing in my head. I’m going to text her, we’re gonna go to a hipster bar and have a drink. We’ll tell each other stories and she’ll laugh at my accent. We’ll go on a second date. We’ll talk about our favourite songs and our dreams and go for a long romantic walk along the beachfront. She’ll show me a secret side of Málaga I never knew. Maybe I’ll end up staying here for weeks, months. We’ll travel Spain together and create something beautiful.

    A few hours later, I text her.

    She doesn’t text back.

    That night, I cook some spinach and chicken, then go and sit in the hostel bar to do some work. There’s a bunch of locals in there. They’re all friends of the owner. The owner of this hostel is a crazy man. But he’s a friendly crazy man. The good kind of crazy man.

    One of these locals comes over to my table and greets me. She’s much older than me, maybe in her forties. Her name is Lupe. She asks me to help her paint her nails. I smile at her for a moment, trying to figure out if she’s serious. She is. I tell her I don’t know how to paint nails. She insists that I try. I try. Turns out, I’m a natural. We both have a good laugh, and then she tells me to come join the rest of them at their table.

    After I finish up on my laptop I go and sit with them. Of course, they only speak Spanish. That’s not a problem, I’ve been practicing mine on the Camino for the last month, it’s all come back to me. I sit there and chat with them. Lupe comes over and puts a beer in front of me. Her gay friend, I think his name was Miguel, eccentrically plants a cigarette in my hand. Everyone introduces themselves enthusiastically. The Spanish know how to make you feel welcome.

    Sitting opposite me is a man and his teenage son. He commends me on my Spanish, and asks where I learned. I tell him I studied in a few places, for a few months, a few years ago. I talk to the kid. Seems like a good kid. Another old guy joins in the conversation, asking me a few questions, about a few random things. It hits me, moments like these – these were the reason I wanted to study language in the first place. To be able to go to a random bar and talk to people. To hear people’s stories. To understand the world. Now I’m here, I’m really doing it.

    A few days later, I wake up and I’m nearly suffocating. There’s no air conditioning in this place, so the afternoons are lethal. The July sun in the south of Spain is a weapon of mass destruction.

    I lie on the couch, paralysed. I can’t move. I can’t eat.

    Now I know why they have siestas in Spain. In this heat, anything other than sleeping is torture.

    Later that evening, while still stuck to the couch, Kathy walks in. We sit and chat. Haven’t seen her for a few days, but she’s my hostel buddy, so we’re always cool. And she is cool. Most French girls aren’t really that cool, but Kathy is cool. She’s like that girl, who is kind of nerdy but still cute. Those kinds of girls are always cool.

    Dino comes in a bit later. Bad news. His bike’s been stolen.

    Since he’s a bike guy, I already know this is really going to screw with him. You can’t steal a bike from a bike guy, man. That’s the lowest of the low. Just evil. We sit and talk about it for a while. Dino is sad, obviously, but he’s chill. He tries to smile about it, turn it into one of those life lessons.

    Kathy asks him how much it will cost to buy another bike. Dino gives her a look.

    “That’s not the point. That bike has been with me all over Europe, I’ve been everywhere on that bike, on that bike. You know?”

    Yeah Kathy. Don’t you know?

    I feel really shitty for him. Who the fuck steals a bike from a bike guy?

    Later that night, Dino, Kathy and I sit outside in the bar with a few drinks. Nobody’s there except us. Out of nowhere, Dino pulls out possibly the fattest joint I’ve ever seen in my life and asks if I want to share it with him. I say sure. Dude just lost his bike, you know. Gotta support him and all that.

    As the night goes on we have one of those talks about life, about nothing. We talk about our travels, about Britain’s colonisation of the world (funny how that always comes up), about where we’re all heading next. I can’t remember what else we talk about, but as Dino takes off to bed, I remember thinking what a cool guy he is. Still out here, living the dream.

    There’s a new guy in my dorm today. He has a guitar. And he’s wearing old Chuck Taylor’s. Kinda like a wannabe John Mayer. As soon as he opens his mouth I know he’s British. He tells me how he just sits around all day and busks. If we were anywhere else, I’d ask him to play us something. But my ears don’t work in this heat. The only things that work are my eyes, and the only thing they can do is shut. And my sweat glands, of course. Those are definitely working.

    That night, there’s a big barbecue in the hostel bar. The owner is a grill master, firing up all kinds of different meats. I sit on the steps with the Italian hippie girl. I forget her name, but certainly not her personality. She tells me about how she’s travelling around Europe with her cat, who I’ve noticed wandering around the hostel every day. And how she kind of just got stuck here in Málaga, working at this place, getting comfortable.

    That’s a common story. Everyone who backpacks for more than a few months gets stuck somewhere. Even me. We all say we love the road, but there are always times when we crave a home as well. Getting stuck somewhere tends to give us the best of both worlds.

    The next people to check in to the hostel are these two Dutch kids. They’re young, maybe 18. They’re staying in Kathy’s room I think.

    That night, we all decide it will be a good idea to go out. We head to the plaza nearby, and order some dirty cocktails. As we sit around the table being typical drunk travellers, it hits me…I’m the old guy now. These kids aren’t even out of university, and I’m the thirty year old backpacker drinking cocktails with them. I’m finally that guy. And I mean, that guy has always been around, and that guy is always cool. But now I’m him. It never occurred to me that one day I might be him. But now I am.

    It’s a long, drunk walk back to the hostel. Kathy and I are laughing about something. That’s what happens with your hostel buddy. It feels like you’ve known each other forever. We get to the hostel and go sit in the kitchen in the pitch black and talk. It’s weird how we even have anything to talk about.

    We really don’t have anything in common.

    She’s a blonde French girl from a little town, I’m a Chinese kid from New Zealand. She’s in school, I’m like some homeless blogger writer guy. But we have the road in common. I guess that’s enough to make friends out of anyone.

    A few days later, Lupe asks me out for a drink. Since I’m just so busy, I decline.

    Just kidding. I have absolutely nothing to do. I go meet her at the bar nearby.

    I think Lupe is old enough to be my mother. I don’t know how old exactly, but she’s around there somewhere. I wondered for a moment, if she was trying to seduce me. But I think, she just wanted someone to chill with. We sit out on the terrace with a pair of gin and tonics and talk. We talk about all kinds of mature topics, like the refugee crisis and traditions and family stuff. She smashes through her pack of cigarettes like they’re Skittles. She laughs a lot. Really doesn’t seem to give a shit about much. She’s really cool, Lupe. I start to wonder what she was doing, hanging out at a hostel bar on the weekend with a bunch of backpacker kids.

    Maybe she was one of us, back in the day.

    Maybe she can’t let it go.

    Maybe that will be me some day.

    When I get back to the hostel that night, Italian girl is sitting outside on the balcony with her cat. Guitar guy is out there too. Kathy is inside on the couch. I sit with Kathy and we catch up. I notice she’s got a world peace wristband on. I ask her about it.

    “Guess how much it cost.”

    “3 euros.”

    She shakes her head.

    “7 euros.”

    She shakes her head.

    “1,000 euros.”

    She laughs.

    “It was ten euros! I got it at a festival. It was for like a fundraiser thing.”

    “Can I have it?”

    “Sure.”

    She slips it off her hand and gives it to me. I take it and put it on. I don’t know how I knew she would give it to me, but I just did. Probably because I would’ve done the same thing.

    Suddenly, I’m so grateful I met her.

    Suddenly, I feel like Kathy and I have everything in common.

    That night, I book a flight for the next day. When we find ourselves in these cities, these hostels, where we’re not here for any reason other than to be here, there comes a time when we know it’s time to go. That night, while lying in bed, I knew it was time to go.

    I check out early the next morning. I hugged Italy goodbye and took a few selfies with her. Kathy was nowhere to be seen. I didn’t get to say goodbye. Nor Dino. Nor guitar guy. Nor the Dutch kids. In fact, I don’t think I said bye to anyone. But sometimes it’s better that way. As long as the moments were good, the goodbyes can remain unsaid. Because we already know what’s being said inside. Besides, if we learn one thing out here, it’s that the road is a circle so, there’s a good chance we’ll see each other again some day. Anyway.

    To the memories of Málaga,

    B

  • Discovering Kuala Lumpur – 3 Days At The KL Journal

    Discovering Kuala Lumpur – 3 Days At The KL Journal

    This post is a part of my Sponsored Reader series. The KL Journal Hotel in Kuala Lumpur kindly agreed to pilot this idea with me. Crissy from the Philippines was the first lucky traveller to be chosen, and recently spent 3 days at The KL Journal exploring Malaysia’s capital. Check out her review of her experience below, it’s a good one! 

    It’s been three weeks since I left my corporate job in Dubai and started this solo journey to see the world. As another restless soul that got bitten by the travel bug, it took me a year to save up, months of planning and preparation, and a whole lot of courage before I finally managed to book my one way ticket. The freedom I felt since I first stepped off the plane has kept me going to discover places and learn things I’d never known before.

    One of those things turned out to be this opportunity to visit Kuala Lumpur. Bren reached out to his readers, and I was lucky enough to be chosen to get hosted by The KL Journal – a four-star boutique hotel – and experience life as a blogger for three days. They say life begins at the end of your comfort zone, and this is so true, especially when you want to try something new. Now I truly believe that the universe will open great things ahead to those who are willing and bold enough.

    I arrived in Kuala Lumpur in the middle of the afternoon heat, by bus from Singapore. At first I thought I was in Manila. The city is packed full of cars, malls, street vendors, restaurants and train stations. The funny thing about travelling in Southeast Asia as an Asian is you don’t feel like a tourist because people always think you are a local! Of course KL is very safe, but this gave me a nice sense of comfort when walking around the streets here.

    It took some walking to reach the hotel, but luckily the KL Journal was really conveniently located and wasn’t hard to find.

    I was welcomed by the hotel with a sweet dessert in a very trendy room. Of course the first thing I did was roam the room to check everything out. The bathroom with the dual shower head was one of the first things I noticed! The art on the walls gave the room a real street vibe. And of course before going anywhere I had to lie in the very comfy bed for a few minutes after my long walk under the sun. How refreshing to have a real hotel bed, after sleeping in so many dorm rooms!

    The hotel is perfectly located in the quiet streets of Bukit Bintang but close to main road of Sultan Ismail. The windows gives you a great view, but it’s just far enough that you will hardly see nor hear any cars buzzing down the street.

    After that it was off to get a drink. I’d been given a free voucher for a cocktail in the rooftop bar by the hotel’s infinity pool. A lovely bartender suggested I taste their new cocktail (I forget the name) while watching a local band play. I felt like I had won a raffle draw of a three-day vacation in a four-star hotel! I guess this is the travel blogger life.

    In my little travel notebook, I started to check through the places I’d listed while planning my trip: KL Tower, China Town, Little India, Central Market, Merdaka Square, Batu Cave, Lake Garden, Petronas Twin Towers (of course). I also checked out the messages from Couchsurfing to read the suggestions some locals had made on the public trip I posted.

    In case you haven’t heard about Couchsurfing, it is a travel app I often use to meet new people, both travellers and locals, to make friends around the world.

    One Couchsurfer suggested to go to Jalan Alor for dinner. After checking it out on Google Maps, I find out it’s only five-minute walk from the hotel!

    On my walk to Jalan Alor in Bukit Bintang, I noticed the amazing diversity of the city. The crowd was a mix of Malay, Chinese, Indian, Middle Eastern and Western tourists watching the street performers, drinking and smoking shisha, shopping for souvenirs, kids getting Arabic henna tattoos. I almost felt like I was back in Dubai, listening to Arab music and Indian crowds chatting in the streets. Although Dubai is an expat city too, most people often tend to gather by nationality. Meanwhile, I felt like KL had a different freedom and diversity, especially in the busy and lively streets of Bukit Bintang.

    Arriving in Jalan Alor turned out to be another surprising moment.

    The street was packed with tourists walking their way through the crowd, people eating on the tables along the street, vendors calling the attention of the people walking by, and smiling faces of tourists from trying all the new and exotic foods.

    I was overwhelmed thinking about where to eat when finally a friend from Couchsurfing caught me and suggested some local Indian food nearby to avoid the crowd.

    We ended up in a very nice and cheap Indian restaurant called Restoran Nasi Kandar. Even some western tourists were there avoiding the crowd of Jalan Alor.

    Here you pick your own food, up to six different courses to fill your plate. Of course, they have a variety of curries cooked in different ways. How cheap? I had two main courses, rice and vegetables for 8 MYR or 2 USD. Pretty good!

    After dinner, my new friend showed me around Changkat – a street next to Jalan Alor, glowing with lights and music, perfect for people who want to party after dinner or stroll around Bukit Bintang.

    This also makes Kuala Lumpur interesting, the name reflects the place itself, as I came to know that Bukit Bintang means Starhill – a hill like streets in Changkat, and star-shapes beaming in different colours, hanging in the trees.

    After that, it was back to the KL Journal for a much needed sleep!

    The next day I woke up in kickass mode, ready for a long day of exploring.

    I started with breakfast in the hotel restaurant. The KL Journal runs a buffet breakfast each morning, so I was able to have a really delicious and healthy breakfast which I haven’t had in a while!

    Also meeting me for breakfast was the hotel’s marketing manager Jess (blogger business meeting!) who was great to chat to about the city and my travels.

    The restaurant has a really cozy vibe, so after breakfast I sat there while I listed down my plans for the day.

    Some advice a local friend gave me the day before was to take the free city buses and surprisingly, one bus stop was located just a few seconds walk from the hotel.

    These buses have 3 routes (green, red and purple) which take you to all the touristy places like Sri Mahamariamman Temple, Central Market, Merdaka Square, KL Tower, National Mosque, and of course, the Petronas Twin Towers.

    Although it took me a while to wait for a bus to come, knowing I had the whole day to explore gave me the flexibility to grab free stuff like this rather than booking a full day-tour or private taxis. Metro lines are everywhere in KL too, but I got confused in understanding the map so I decided to skip it and try again later.

    Some of the places like Central Market, Jamek Mosque and Merdaka Square were close enough to walk too.

    Here’s a quick tour of some the spots I visited:

    Clockwise from top left:

    Sri Mahamariamman Temple is the oldest Hindu temple in KL, founded in 1873, it is situated at edge of Chinatown in Jalan Bandar. From its inception, the temple provided an important place of worship for early Indian immigrants. 

    Sultan Abdul Samad Jamek Mosque is one of the oldest mosque in KL located at the Klang River.

    Central Market is arranged in a stall concept, representing the traditional market that has existed in Kuala Lumpur since the 1800s. Notable are two-storey and single- storey buildings resembling the kampong-style houses representing the many ethnic groups living harmoniously in Kuala Lumpur. 

    Merdeka Square or Independence Square is a former British cricket field and the place where the Union Flag of UK was lowered and the Malayan flag hoisted for the first time at midnight on 31st August 1957. 

    Visiting those first three spots made me realise that aside from diversity, KL is very clean in the major areas, organised, and most of all locals are friendly and speak English very well.

    From there I got on the third bus and it brought me back to Bukit Bintang right on lunch time. I always like to search for something cheap and authentic, usually local food, and I found one in Jalan Utara Imbi. Restoran Pau Kee is 43 years old and serves Chinese traditional foods like noodles, dumpling, and wantons.

    I love Chinese food so I tried their signature Ipoh with silky texture noodles which was so good!

    The afternoon was hot (as usual), so after eating I decided take some time to relax and stroll around the hotel.

    One of the unique features at The KL Journal is the Workers Union in Level 1. It has an open working space for businessmen or digital nomads, and they also have meeting rooms and a small library to work from. Perfect for anyone working on the go.

    I decided to sit here for a while, put down my phone and check some books to read while lounging by the bar.

    After recharging, another friend from India I met the day before joined me to visit the two skyscrapers of KL. In moments like this, you realise solo traveling doesn’t have to be lonely. “There are no strangers on the road, only friends you haven’t met yet.”

    We talked about a lot of things – about why he moved to Malaysia, his life back in India and some advice of places to visit outside KL. Like many people that I met, this guy is another one who left the comfort of his home to try and be free from the usual 9-5. Travelling gives you a lot of opportunity to meet like-minded people from different backgrounds, and you will realise you are not alone.

    We took the pink bus again, and I felt the excitement to see these skyscrapers, especially to see how they compare to the Burj Khalifa in my current home of Dubai.

    The great thing I noticed about KL is there are a lot of freebies, and the skyscrapers were no exception. Walking close to the gate, there is a shuttle van service waiting for tourists to take them to the main entrance of the KL Tower, the 7th tallest freestanding tower in the world. We opted to walk up and take the few stairs to see the full view appear slowly as we approached.

    Then, fifteen minutes walking from KL Tower, we arrive at Malaysia’s most famous landmark – the stunning Petronas Towers. It really looks like a double of the Burj Khalifa.

    After seeing the skyscrapers, we sat waiting for the sunset in the park in front of Suria KLCC.

    The Adhan from different mosques called for evening prayer and the musical fountain show played when the clock ticked past 7pm.

    In every major city in Southeast Asia where there is a famous landmark (like the one in Marina Bay Sands in Singapore) tourists from all over the world come in to witness this vibrant show of different colours and music, which expresses the city’s unique taste.

    Tips: Coming back to Bukit Bintang, don’t miss out on the walkway from Suria KLCC. It’s pretty convenient and entertaining to see a lot of shops, arts and graffiti while you make the short fifteen-minute walk.

    After all that, my day still wasn’t over as I’d been invited to the Couchsurfing weekly meetup! We shared things about our own countries and just listening to their stories was a great way to learn a lot about the world.

    It’s also amazing that meeting these people, I made a new local friend who took me to Batu Caves, National Palace and Thean Hou Temple the next day. This generosity from random strangers still amazes me until now.

    It was also perfect as I wanted my second day to be about exploring a bit further from the city centre. My new friend picked me up at 7am to get to Batu Cave, the perfect time to avoid the crowd and afternoon heat.

    Batu Caves is a limestone hill that has a series of caves and cave temples in Gombak, Selangor. It takes its name from the Sungai Batu (Stone River), which flows past the hill. The cave is one of the most popular Hindu shrines outside India, and is the focal point of the Hindu festival of Thaipusam in Malaysia.

    National Palace is the official residence of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong, the monarch of Malaysia. It is located along Jalan Tuanku Abdul Halim in Segambut, KL.

    Thean Hou Temple is a beautiful Chinese temple that was built by Hainanese living in Malaysia with elements of Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism.

    From the beautiful nature at Batu Cave, the impressive Islamic architecture of National Palace and finally the Thean Hou Temple – one of the prettiest Chinese temples I’ve visited so far – it really was a perfect morning of sightseeing.

    After we were done, I was invited back to have lunch in the hotel restaurant.

    I decided to treat myself with a Western style dish of mixed seafoods, and a cold iced tea that I’d been craving for. The hotel’s menu is an interesting mix of local and Western cuisine for a very affordable price. Perfect for those hot afternoons when it’s a struggle to leave the hotel, and those lazy evenings too.

    For my last day in KL, only three places remained unticked: Chinatown, Little India and my favorite place to escape a busy city – a park, like KL’s Lake Gardens.

    Chinatown and Little India are perfect for those who want to do a lot of shopping. While cheap gadgets, textiles, cheap accessories and souvenirs can be found in Chinatown, Little India has more things like jewellery shops, authentic Indian dresses and restaurants.

    Tips: Chinatown and Little India are very close to The KL Journal. It takes only a thirty-minute walk, or booking a Grab is easy and affordable too.

    Shopping wasn’t really on my list of things to do, so I just took a quick glimpse and then headed to the gardens.

    Lake Gardens (or Perdana Botanical Gardens) ended up being my favourite place in KL. The park is huge and there are plenty of small sections to enjoy. It’s great to chill, do some people watching, nature walking and just learn about different flowers, plants and trees.

    An escape from the hustle and bustle of the city like this makes me think that after living in two different big cities, I’d be happy to live a simple life somewhere close to nature where I felt more connected to myself. It was really the perfect place to wrap up my time in KL.


    The next day, it was finally time to check out. Although there were still so many things to discover, I had an amazing time exploring Malaysia’s capital and can say it’s definitely a city worth your time when travelling through Southeast Asia!

    Of course, this whole experience wouldn’t have been possible without the new friends that I met here, and the hotel’s warm welcome. I would like to give a big thank you to The KL Journal Hotel for giving me this first-time opportunity, to be hosted by a top boutique hotel! And of course to Bren for choosing me and giving me the opportunity to share with you my very own KL adventure.

    Thank you for reading!

    -Crissy

    The KL Journal Hotel is one of the premier boutique hotels in Kuala Lumpur. Perfectly located close to tourist hotspots, food options and public transport, we’re sure you’ll find it the perfect place to stay for your Kuala Lumpur adventure. They offer very affordable rates too! You can check out their special offers and book directly on the KL Journal website by clicking here.

    The KL Journal hosted Crissy’s stay. All opinions are her own. If you would like to be my next Sponsored Reader, be sure to sign up to my newsletter to hear about future opportunities.

  • Where to Stay in Berlin: Best Areas and Hotels

    Where to Stay in Berlin: Best Areas and Hotels

    Germany’s enormous capital is a never-ending sea of history, art, architecture and culture, and a beloved adopted home for many Europeans, for good reason. If you’re about to visit, let me introduce you to this amazing city – where to stay in Berlin, an introduction to all Berlin’s major neighbourhoods, some of Berlin’s best hotels, things to see and do, and a few insider tips as well.

    In this guide:

    Why visit Berlin?

    This is one of those cities you need to visit at least once in your life. Or twice, as it’s impossible to see everything in just one visit. My first visit was particularly special, and I’ve been back several times since then. From its infamous history to the quirky expats and the ridiculous nightlife, there really is something for everyone in this city.

    Different areas of the city have different atmospheres and bring different experiences, so it is worth taking the time to consider the best places to stay in Berlin. There is no one main centre of Berlin, so no one best place to stay. Where to stay in Berlin all depends on your personal interests and what you want to get out of your visit.

    Do you want to visit historic sites? Are you interested in exploring the bars and clubs? Is shopping more your thing? Need some funky places to snap some Instagram worthy shots? Is the thought of sampling the local cuisine already getting your taste buds going? Just a few of the many questions to ask yourself when looking at where to stay in Berlin.

    In the guide below we’ll explore some of the main areas of the city and I’ll share the best hotels I’ve stayed in. I’ve included places to stay in Berlin for all types of traveller – so whether you’re backpacking, on a budget or want to stay in complete luxury, this guide is for you!

    Map of Berlin Neighbourhoods

    Here is a neighbourhood map of Berlin with the eight areas we will look at. In my opinion these are the best areas to stay in Berlin, especially for a first time visitor.

    Berlin is huge. Certain neighbourhoods are walkable, but Berlin in itself is not a walkable city. Luckily the public transport is excellent, although it can take a while to get between parts of the city. That’s why it’s important to choose the right area!

    If you’re in a hurry, all places recommended in this guide are also mapped out in the interactive map below.

    Key:
    Places for backpackers (€10+): Green
    Places for budget travellers (€50+): Blue
    Places for luxury travellers (€150+): Purple

    Finding Transport To Your Accommodation In Berlin

    Berlin has two airports: Berlin Tegel Airport (the main international airport) and Berlin Schönefeld Airport (mainly for budget European flights). Both are in easy reach of Berlin city centre by train or bus.

    It’s also worth mentioning that a new airport is currently under construction next to Berlin Schönefeld Airport, Berlin Brandenburg Airport. This airport is estimated to open in 2019/2020 and will replace Berlin Tegel Airport.

    To get to your accommodation, the easiest method is to get to the subway. Both airports have a U Bahn or S Bahn (these are the name’s of Berlin’s subways) nearby. If you’re arriving by bus or train, you’ll arrive at central stations which are all close to public transport too.

    It’s less than 3 euro for a trip, and you can switch between buses, trams and trains on the same ticket. I’d recommend Google mapping the route before you land, so you know exactly where to go. Berlin might be huge, but it’s easy to get around if you know what you’re doing.

    Charlottenburg

    If you’re looking for a sophisticated area to stay, then look no further than Charlottenburg. Charlottenburg is an affluent district to the west of Berlin where you’ll find an abundance of fine dining establishments and high-end shopping.

    The main shopping mile is Kurfürstendamm, also known as Ku’damm – if you want to fit in with the locals! Here you will be impressed with the array of designer shops and classy cafes, where you can enjoy a relaxing coffee and experience the stylish backdrop.

    From shopping splendour to majestic grandeur, the Charlottenburg Palace is a must-see with its lavish grounds and rococo ballroom. The palace is around 15-minutes away from Ku’damm when travelling on the U-Bahn. Hop on the U7 at U Adenauerplatz for 3 stops, jump off at U-Bhf-Richard-Wagner-Platz and walk the 800 metres towards the palace.

    where to stay in Charlottenburg

    To sum up, elegance is key at Charlottenburg. Elegance in the architecture. Elegance in the shopping and elegance in the theatres. Possibly the best area to stay in Berlin for those looking to enjoy Berlin in style without a tight budget. But that’s not to say if you’re on a budget you can’t stay here. In fact, that’s exactly what I did…

    Where to stay in Charlottenburg?

    For the backpacker (€10+)

    I’ve been to Berlin many times, including early in my travel career when I was backpacking across Europe. I stayed at the Smart Stay Hotel Berlin City on 148 Wilmersdorfer Str for a couple of nights in the dormitory accommodation. This hotel offers 4, 6 and 8-bed dorms, with mixed and female only options. It was an extremely comfortable stay and a complete bargain! Plus, it’s also really close to the U Bismarckstraße station. You can find the best rates here.

    For the budget traveller (€50+)

    The aletto Hotel Kudamm on Hardenbergstrasse 21 is the perfect choice if you’re looking for a budget hotel. As after all, the less you spend on accommodation, the more you can spend on experiencing Charlottenburg. This hotel is located in the heart of the city and even has a large garden for pure relaxation. You can find the best rates here.

    For the luxury traveller (€150+)

    One of the most luxurious hotels in the area, a stay at the 4-star Savoy Berlin Hotel will ensure the elegance of Charlottenburg extends to your accommodation. Treat yourself and enjoy all the luxury conveniences you would expect from a lavish hotel. Even better, Ku’damm is only a short stroll away. You can find the best rates here.

    Mitte

    Mitte is the most central district of Berlin, in fact, some would call it the heart. It is also where many of the city’s top tourist attractions are, such as Brandenburger Tor, the Reichstag, and Checkpoint Charlie. It’s pretty hard not to stumble upon one or two famous sites when staying in Mitte! Definitely the best area to stay in Berlin for any sightseeing and history fiends.

    Also, be sure to check out Alexanderplatz, with it its famous TV tower providing panoramic views of the city, as well as Potsdamer Platz, with its entertainment and shopping centre. You can easily spend a few hours in these squares, at least, so make sure you allow yourself enough time in your itinerary.

    where to stay in mitte

    The city’s turbulent past combined with its modern re-emergence makes Mitte a great place to stay in Berlin. If you are looking for a central location with easy access to shopping, entertainment as well as experiencing the rich history, Mitte is your place.

    Where to stay in Mitte?

    For the backpacker (€10+)

    For a quick, convenient base to see all the major Berlin attractions, you can’t go far wrong with citystay Hostel Berlin Mitte. The hostel is located between Alexanderplatz and Hackescher Markt, and also provides a breakfast cafe to grab a quick bite to eat before exploring the city. Choose from different sized dorms or double room. You can find the best rates here.

    For the budget traveller (€50+)

    If you like funky decor and an unusual arty feel, you will love the Arte Luise Kunsthotel on Luisenstr. 19. While providing budget accommodation, this hotel certainly doesn’t scrimp on the atmosphere. Plus, it’s location is ideal for exploring Mitte. You can find the best rates here. This hotel is definitely worth a look!

    For the luxury traveller (€150+)

    Why not push the boat out and stay at the Leonardo Hotel Berlin Mitte. All rooms are tastefully decorated for that luxurious feel, with the Superior Room also including a shower and bathtub. The hotel has a sauna and spa so you can really unwind and enjoy a relaxing pampering session! You can find the best rates here.

    Kreuzberg

    The Kreuzberg district of Berlin is to the south of Mitte, and south of the River Spree.

    where to stay in Kreuzberg

    It is widely known as one of the hippest areas in Berlin, with cool cafes and great street food markets, such as Markthalle Neun. As the name suggests, this was the ninth market hall in Berlin, built in the late 19th century.

    Kreuzberg is a diverse place where your individuality and ingenuity is encouraged. It is home to creativity – whether that’s musicians or artists – as well as a large Turkish community. Think street art, street musicians and street food, and you won’t be far wrong. If you’re hip, young and trendy, it’s the place to be seen in! I’d say this is the best area to stay in Berlin for those looking to enjoy the young arts scene and the nightlife. There’s always something happening here.

    A good tip is to hire a bike so you can explore Kreuzberg to the full. And to stay in a hotel that is never too far from the action!

    Where to stay in Kreuzberg?

    For the backpacker (€10+)

    The Three Little Pigs Hostel on Stresemannstrasse 66 has recently been renovated, providing a comfortable base for you to explore the city. The price for shared accommodation in a dorm is pretty reasonable too. You can find the best rates here.

    For the budget traveller (€50+)

    The Hotel Prens Berlin on Kottbusser Damm 102 offers an economy double room option, meaning you don’t have to break the bank to stay in a superior hotel. Plus, with amenities such as free wi-fi and 24-hour room service, you really will have everything you need for a relaxing stay. Hotel Prens Berlin is popular with both business and leisure travellers and provides easy access to the city. You can find the best rates here.

    For the luxury traveller (€150+)

    If you want to splash out on a hotel, I would recommend Angleterre Hotel. This is a sophisticated hotel that brings together modern and contemporary with antique furnishings and old-world touches. There is an on-site fitness centre and sauna, where you can treat yourself to a relaxing massage. Plus, there is a bar and restaurants for the added convenience of dining in. The hotel is situated right next to Checkpoint Charlie, so also benefits from a great location. You can find the best rates here.

    Friedrichshain

    Friedrichshain is east of Berlin and is another creative, alternative neighbourhood where complete buildings provide the blank canvases for artworks. You will be surprised at how expressive and inspiring graffiti can be!

    where to stay in Friedrichshain

    One of Friedrichshain’s most famous street art displays is the East Side Gallery. The East Side Gallery can be found on Mühlenstraße, which is about a 13-minute walk from Berlin Warschauer Straße station. It is where the longest remaining segment of the Berlin Wall has been transformed into an art gallery by international artists and is renowned as a memorial of freedom.

    Aside from the art, you’ll want to check out the trendy cafes that line the streets of Friedrichshain. Try Simon-Dach-Kiez or The Frankfurter Allee – these were my two favourite streets for watching the world go by over a cup of coffee.

    And if relaxation is what you’re looking for, take some time out in Volkspark Friedrichshain, a quiet park haven within the bustling district. There are plenty of activities going on as well if you’re feeling a bit active, especially in the summer, such as frisbee or volleyball.

    Where to stay in Friedrichshain?

    For the backpacker (€10+)

    The U Inn Berlin Hostel was one of my favourite hostels in the world! It’s the hostel I mentioned in my story, When In Berlin. There’s actually nothing other-worldly about it – it’s your standard small hostel with basic dorms and reasonable prices, but they just seem to foster a great spirit of fun and community in there. The hostel is also really well run and everything works just like it should.  You can find the best rates here.

    For the budget traveller (€50+)

    The ibis Berlin Ostbahnhof is just a quick walk from Ostbahnhof station, making it a convenient place to stay for exploring the city. You will feel very relaxed in this hotel and, as an added bonus, there is also a car park available. You can find the best rates here.

    For the luxury traveller (€150+)

    When in Friedrichshain, why not consider an alternative, edgy hotel? The Michelberger Hotel on Warschauer Str. 39-40 is uniquely decorated and has a distinct, unique atmosphere. It has different lobby rooms where you can relax, and each has its own special style. You’re right in the heart of Friedrichshain at this hotel. And that means easy access to the nightlife and culture. You can find the best rates here.

    Schöneberg

    The Schöneberg district is to the south-west of Berlin and tends to be a quieter area than some of Berlin’s other districts. However, that’s not to say there is nothing going on! In fact, quite the opposite is true. Schöneberg provides a varied scene, appealing to many people.

    where to stay in Schöneberg

    For families with children, there is the vast, leafy Schöneberger Südgelände park where you can go for a stroll or have a picnic. For the artists among us, there is the really cool Urban Nation along Bülowstrasse. And for those looking for a buzzing nightlife scene, Schöneberg is the place to be. Winterfeldplatz, in particular, is renowned for its vibrant bars and clubs. Schöneberg is also a hub for the LGBT community. You will no doubt notice the rainbow flag proudly flying high, or rainbow stickers in windows, welcoming the gay community.

    Where to stay in Schöneberg?

    For the backpacker (€10+)

    For a different type of accommodation, have a look at Visage Appart. This studio apartment is located at Gustav- Müller Straße 36A and offers a double bed and shower. Facilities such as a toaster, oven and kettle are also included. This apartment is a good option if you are a solo traveller. You can find the best rates here.

    For the budget traveller (€50+)

    The ARCO Hotel is the perfect choice for shopping, restaurants and nightlife. You can find it on Geisbergstrasse 30, which is close to the Viktoria-Luise-Platz hexagonal place. The hotel has also recently been renovated, so you can expect a comfortable stay. Plus, you will get a free drink on arrival! You can find the best rates here.

    For the luxury traveller (€150+)

    A stay in the 4-star, luxury Ellington Hotel Berlin will certainly make you go ‘wow’. As soon as you walk into the hotel and enter the lobby with its white, contemporary decor, you won’t help but feel impressed. But it’s not only the look and feel of this hotel that will amaze. The staff are also on hand to provide a top class service, making your stay even more prestigious. You can find the best rates here.

    Prenzlauer Berg

    Prenzlauer Berg is to the south of the city and is most popular with young professionals and students as well as families. Picturesque tree-lined streets and trendy cafes provide the perfect setting for work-from-home parents and you will see plenty of professionals with their laptops. It’s possibly the best area to stay in Berlin for young professionals/long term stayers. Lots of people who have moved to the Berlin to work stay in this area.

    where to stay in berlin

    If you are passionate about vintage clothes and antiques, be sure to check out the Mauerpark, Berlin’s largest flea market  – it seems to be where locals and tourists alike flock to on a Sunday afternoon!

    Mauerpark is also home to an outdoor music and entertainment space – including the infamous Mauerpark Karaoke. Every Sunday thousands of people enjoy singing and dancing – the atmosphere is incredible, and not to be missed if you’re lucky enough to be travelling to Berlin over the weekend.

    Where to stay in Prenzlauer Berg?

    For the backpacker (€10+)

    The Pfefferbett Hostel on Christinenstraße 18-19 is a great option for backpackers. The hotel provides a 24-hour bar, as well as table tennis and table football, for when you want to enjoy some downtime or meet new people. You can find the best rates here.

    For the budget traveller (€50+)

    The MEININGER Hotel is only 70 metres away from the nearest station, Senefelderplatz, and so is extremely convenient. With free wi-fi in all rooms and all the basic amenities you would expect from a 3-star hotel, the MEININGER Hotel Berlin Alexanderplatz provides a comfortable, affordable, base to explore Berlin. You can find the best rates here.

    For the luxury traveller (€150+)

    For the ultimate in luxury, you must take a look at the 4-star Vienna House. This prestigious hotel not only has the Green Globe certification for sustainable management but also offers first-rate facilities. Each room features in-room movies, a television as well as a separate shower and tub. You can also find amenities such as a salon, babysitting service and a spa and fitness centre at the hotel. Everything you need for a relaxing, pampering stay in one place. It’s perfect for a romantic getaway, I love this hotel! You can find the best rates here.

    Neukölln

    Neukölln is another of Berlin’s hip areas and is located south-east of the city. There is a vibrant buzz about Neukölln, so it’s no surprise that it attracts artists, students and young professionals to the area.

    where to stay in Neukölln

    There’s definitely a community feel here, and a diverse one at that. The neighbourhood is often referred to as ‘Little Istanbul’ because of the Turkish community that has settled in Neukölln. You’ll notice this influence with all the kebab joints lying around (and they’re all delicious too!)

    It’s said that the Neukölln district is always changing and developing, and even Google Maps can’t keep up! Make sure you spend time exploring without a guide or map – you never know what quirky cafes or restaurants you may discover. The nightlife here is also popping. It’s not the drink-yourself-to-death kind, it’s more boutique bars with lots of mingling and a bit of live music. Might be the best place to stay in Berlin for those still wanting to be social but maybe one or two levels from the nightclub scene. Really cool place.

    Where to stay in Neukölln?

    For the backpacker (€10+)

    The 2A Hostel on Saalestreet 76 is a home away from home, and perfect for the backpacker. In the heart of Neukölln, you will easily be able to reach the city centre to explore. Choose from mixed and female only dorms. You can find the best rates here.

    For the budget traveller (€50+)

    Motel Plus Berlin is the perfect choice. A few minutes walk from the bus, train, and a selection of the area’s trendiest bars and clubs. A solid breakfast buffet is on offer each morning too. You can find the best rates here.

    For the luxury traveller (€150+)

    For complete luxury, try the Estrel Hotel. Estrel Hotel is located less than 500 meters from the metro station of Sonnenallee. Hotel facilities include a sauna, gymnasium, jogging track, and massage parlour. So there’s no excuse not to keep up with the fitness regime and relax at the same time. You can find the best rates here.

    Wedding

    Wedding is an up-and-coming neighbourhood in the Mitte area of Berlin. It attracts more of a mature crowd and is an alternative district to visit.  But it still has a strong hipster feel, like many of the other Berlin districts.

    best place to stay in berlin

    For a unique, artsy café experience, why not enjoy a bite to eat in a converted bus at Café Pförtner on Uferstraße 8-11, which was originally a bus repair station. It certainly provides a different café setting!

    Wedding is a place where new sits amongst authentic, and locals sit amongst tourists. However, if you manage to find solitude in one of the local park areas, you will escape tourists for a while.

    When deciding where to stay in Berlin during a short trip a few years ago, I ended up finding a friend with a spare room in Wedding. I stayed there and was surprised out how peaceful it was – very quiet and pleasant and if that’s what your’e after, it’s a good choice.

    Where to stay in Wedding?

    For the backpacker (€10+)

    Hotel Big Mama on Koloniestr. 24 is a hidden, but friendly hostel. It’s a great find for the first time Berliner, being close to the Osloer Strasse Subway Station. A coffee shop, shop and restaurant is also available on site for the ultimate convenience. You can find the best rates here.

    For the budget traveller (€50+)

    The Kolo 77  on Koloniestrasse 77 features a bright courtyard with deck chairs where you can relax outside. Fingers crossed for sun! A breakfast buffet is available in the morning to set you up for the day. You can find the best rates here.

    For the luxury traveller (€150+)

    The RiSo Apartment is a self catering apartment for up to six people. It’s the perfect place for a homely but luxurious stay in Wedding. Superbly located and superbly furnished and decorated. If you’re a fan of apartment living, you won’t be disappointed! Best rates here.

    And there you have it. A complete lowdown on the main districts in Berlin, and where the best places to stay are. Berlin is one of my favourite cities – I fully recommend you adding it to your travel bucket list.

    Which is your favourite Berlin district and why? Let me know in the comments below!

    Image Credits: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 

  • Accommodation In Windhoek: A Beginner’s Guide

    Accommodation In Windhoek: A Beginner’s Guide

    Coming to Windhoek? I’m excited for you!

    Namibia is a unique place, and one of my favourite cities in Africa. It’s tucked down in the south west and quite different to any other country in the region.

    Windhoek, the capital, is a small but lively city, where development is rapidly taking place and is becoming more modern every day.

    All your western comforts are here – gyms, malls, gluten-free cookies – you name it!

    The one thing that makes Windhoek slightly difficult to navigate is the transport. It’s not very easy to get around – the public transport system is basically non-existent and the city, while small, is segregated into various different neighbourhoods.

    Most locals use “cabs” to get around, which look like regular taxis, but operate more like shuttles (I’ll talk about this later on).

    This makes it important to choose the right area to stay. Whether you’re in Windhoek for a long-term stay or just making an overnight stop before your safari, where you decide to spend the night will make a big difference to your impression of this charming city.

    Luckily for you I’ve got that all broken down in my guide below.

    I’ll take you through each area of the city, and the best place to stay in each.

    In This Guide:

    Map of Windhoek

    There are really only 3-4 areas that I would recommend you stay.

    Somewhere central is obviously good, and you won’t be short of options.

    Luckily tourism has decent volume here, so tourist accommodation in Windhoek and Namibia is plentiful, and we’ll go through some of the best hotels and guesthouses below.

    While the map might make the city look very spread out, one thing you’ll discover is Windhoek is very small.

    To drive from Klein Kuppe up to Windhoek West only takes about 10-15 minutes.

    It’s also popular to rent a car when travelling Namibia, and most places should offer free car parking as well. If you do rent a car, it’s probably a good idea to stay a little outside the city, maybe in Windhoek West or Klein Windhoek, just to avoid the busier roads.

    Anyway, let’s go through each of the areas and the pros and cons of each.

    City Centre / Independence Ave

    Aftersun

    Windhoek’s city centre is very sleepy. Even in the middle of a weekday, there are very few people walking around (by capital city standards) and in the evenings it’s basically a ghost town.

    However, this is where I’d recommend staying if you don’t have a car.

    There are many affordable and comfortable places to stay, and you’ll be within walking distance of some great places to eat and shop as well.

    Windhoek’s centre is actually quite a pleasant city to go for a walkabout, with a few little malls, restaurants and cafes – it’ll surprise you!

    Where to stay in the city centre?

    For the backpacker:

    For those on a tight budget, Chameleon Backpackers is your spot.

    Accommodation in Windhoek is quite lacking in the hostel department, as the backpacker culture hasn’t reached this city yet. Chameleon is one of the few. It’s a well-run hostel and walking distance from the centre of town – usually will run you between $10-$15 per night. 

    You’ll find the best rates here.

    For the budget traveller:

    Stay at Home Inn.

    I’ve stayed here and it’s excellent. The location is about 10 minutes walk from the central Independence Ave, and it’s nestled down a safe and quiet side street which is perfect. There’s a great supermarket about 3 minutes walk away, plus their rooms are self catering so you can lay off the biltong and cook yourself a decent meal! Really great place if you’re looking for somewhere central. 

    Click here for the latest rates.

    For something luxurious:

    If you want to splurge, look no further than the Hilton Windhoek.

    It’s located right in the centre of town and sticks out like a sore thumb.

    Obviously, it’s not cheap but if you’re after something lavish to round off your safari or sand duning, this is definitely your spot. What’s a holiday in the desert without a little luxury? 

    Best rates here!

    Windhoek West

    Windhoek West is just outside of the centre and is a more residential area.

    There are many guesthouses located in this suburb as it’s quiet, safe, and very accessible to the city.

    If you have your own car this is the ideal place to stay – close to everything but away from the central crowds. .

    A lot of safari and tour companies book their guests into guesthouses in this area.

    Where to stay in Windhoek West?

    Rivendell

    A lot of the major tour companies use Rivendell as their top spot for housing guests.

    Lovely rooms and great beds – perfect after a week of climbing dunes in the desert!

    It also has a pool and communal kitchen/BBQ area. Ideal if you have a rental car, but it’s also just a short walk to the city if you’re up for it. Walking around Windhoek is perfectly safe during the day time, as long as you don’t mind the sun! 

    You’ll find the best rates here.

    Windhoek Gardens

    Rivendell is often booked out, so a great alternative is Windhoek Gardens.

    This is one of the top guest houses in Windhoek and is actually a step up from Rivendell in my opinion – beautiful rooms and enormous beds, plus the furnishings and bathrooms are really at four-star hotel standard.

    Perfectly located too. There’s a pool and a great restaurant/bar where I’ve eaten at a few times – the food’s great!

    They have game meat and some great sides on the menu. 

    You’ll find the best rates here.

    Klein Windhoek

    klein windhoek

    Klein Windhoek is a suburb a little south of the centre.

    It’s a safe and quiet area, although I wouldn’t really recommend staying here if you don’t have a car, as there really isn’t much around. The exception is if you want to try out one of the fancy accommodations in this area, of which there are several. If you’re just overnighting before a tour or safari then it’s a nice choice. Otherwise, I’d recommend staying in the centre or Windhoek West.

    Where to stay in Klein Windhoek?

    For the budget traveller:

    If you need something affordable but comfortable check out Maison Ambre.

    It’s possibly the best rated guest house in Windhoek, with a pool, a lounge area and BBQ facilities.

    If you enjoy accommodations that have a homely feel but still give you all the privacy you need, this is the perfect spot. Very cosy and immaculately run – ideal for a holidaying couple.

    Click here to check the latest rates.

    For something luxurious:

    If you’re looking to splurge and want something that’s going to impress, Hotel Heinitzburg is your place.

    It’s a lavish little castle with all the bells and whistles, again, a great place for a couple on vacation or honeymoon.

    The rooms are luxuriously furnished in classical style, there’s a beautiful pool, and the swanky restaurant should keep you fed and smiling.

    There’s no other place like it in Windhoek – if you’re looking for something unique and indulgent, this is the spot.

    Click here for the latest rates.

    Klein Kuppe

    where to stay in windhoek

    Klein Kuppe is a wealthy residential suburb of Windhoek.

    This is actually where I lived when I was based in Windhoek for a few months.

    It’s located quite a far way south to the centre, although “far” is relative in a city as small as Windhoek.

    A cab ride from Klein Kuppe to the city will take around 15 minutes.

    There isn’t much to see or do out in Klein Kuppe, although it is home to the Grove Mall – the best and biggest mall in the city.

    It’s not a bad place for a long-term stay in Windhoek, but for just a couple of days, I’d be inclined to stay somewhere like Windhoek West instead.

    Where to stay in Klein Kuppe?

    Arebbusch Guesthouse

    This is a beautiful nature-oriented guesthouse located in the centre of Klein Kuppe.

    It has a pool, restaurant, bar, and the premises is lush with greenery and friendly wildlife.

    It’s also walking distance to the Grove Mall, which has everything you could possibly need.

    If you’re looking for somewhere out of the central districts, this will probably be the place you’re after. 

    Click here to check the latest rates.

    Getting Around Windhoek Safely

    One of the best ways to get around Windhoek is to rent a car.

    Driving in Windhoek isn’t difficult and the roads are very well kept.

    If you don’t have a car, Windhoek is walkable around the central districts.

    If you’re staying in Windhoek West or Windhoek Central, you should be able to walk around and find anything you need (supermarkets, coffee shops, restaurants etc).

    If you’re going anywhere that’s a decent distance, you can use a cab.

    Cabs in Windhoek are shared, meaning that when you get in, the driver may also stop and let others in if they’re going in the same direction.

    You’ll often see the driver beeping at people standing on the side of the road, and may shout out the window asking where they want to go.

    Cabs are the cheapest way to get around the city, and it’s usually a flat fee of $10 NAD (about 70 cents USD).

    If you’re going somewhere very far from the centre, this can sometimes be raised to $20. They’ll drop you anywhere you want to go!

    However, often locals will warn you against using shared cabs, especially at night.

    To be on the safe side, if you’re moving anywhere after dark it is a good idea to use Dial-a-cab.

    This is a private cab company and they work more like regular taxis.

    They will pick you up and drop you off at the door.

    The number I have for them is 061 223531, although this changes sometimes, so it’s good to check with a local (your receptionist, travel agent etc).

    Getting from Windhoek Airport To Your Accommodation

    Windhoek Airport is about 40 minutes from the centre of the city.

    The easiest way is to get a taxi.

    You will pay around $300 NAD for a transfer from the airport to your accommodation (around $20USD).

    There will be many taxis waiting at the airport – just ask at the information desk if you’re unsure of who to go with.

    If you’re on a budget, you could try the Tok Tokkie Shuttle.

    It’s $100 NAD (around $6 USD) from the airport to Windhoek city centre. From there you could walk or catch a cab.

    Food in Windhoek

    Food in Windhoek is lots of fun!

    It’s similar to South African food, so things like pap, biltong, rusks, red meat are all staples of the diet.

    It’s a small city so just dig in and try everything.

    Biltong from the supermarket:

    Rusks and tea! One of my favourites.

    Traditional Braii (barbecue). If you ever get the chance, take it! They have some of the best meat in the world here.

    Nightlife in Windhoek

    Nightlife in Windhoek is happening!

    There are quite a few bars that people hop around in the city centre, and a surprising number of events too.

    It’s easiest to befriend a few locals who can show you around, because, as I mentioned earlier, it can be difficult to get around safely on your own, especially at night.

    As for recommendations, the place we used to frequent was Chopsi’s (but it has since closed down, *sob*).

    Windhoek is the type of city where places are popping up and closing down all the time, so ask your accommodation where the party is.

    Getting internet in Windhoek

    It’s easy enough to get internet in Windhoek.

    You can buy a sim from the airport or any MTC or Telecom store.

    The rates are reasonable.

    You will need your passport.

    Long-Term Accommodation in Windhoek

    If you’re planning on staying in Windhoek long term, the accommodation options are actually quite slim.

    You can find non-furnished apartments rather easily, but this isn’t ideal if you’re not planning to settle in Windhoek.

    For someone staying for 3-6 months, a furnished apartment is ideal, and Windhoek is one of the few cities where I’ve really struggled to find this.

    In the end, I did manage to find a great place furnished place through Airbnb, and the price was 9,000 Namibian dollars per month, excluding electricity but including wifi and water. 

    That’s rather expensive for southern Africa, but the apartment was excellent and very well furnished.

    It’s essential to bargain, so make sure you do!

    Questions? Leave them below. Enjoy Windhoek!

    Photo credits: 1, 2

  • Mini Movie: Hostel Life In Swakopmund, Namibia

    Mini Movie: Hostel Life In Swakopmund, Namibia

    The backstory to this video:

    I went to Swakopmund in late 2017 to do some surfing on the African west coast. This is supposed to be one of the best places in the world to surf, and has one of the most famous waves in the world that breaks along Skeleton Bay. I’m not good enough to surf Skeleton Bay, but there are lots of other little breaks in the region perfect for a novice surfer like me. Surfing and Africa? Two of my favourite things! What better way to end the year.

    Of course when visiting interesting off-beat places like this, I’m always conscious there might be a cool story to write about at the end of it. Normally I just try to let the experience happen. Usually I don’t even keep a journal. I have a funny kind of memory where people and events just sort of get recorded in some archive in my head somewhere, and I let them percolate there for a few months. After that, I’m able to look back on the experience after everything has settled. Then I sit down to write and see what comes out. That’s how all my stories have been written.

    Swakopmund was a little different. While I was there we didn’t surf every day, because the conditions weren’t always good. That’s one of the things about surfing – everything depends on what mother nature is doing on any given day. It’s possible you can head somewhere to surf for a week and not get any waves the entire time! So over the two weeks I was there I ended up having a lot of downtime. This was mostly just sitting around the hostel chatting with the other guys, cooking food, going grocery shopping – normal stuff. 

    But even though we weren’t really doing anything each day, by the last few days of my stay I could sense there was still an experience here worth sharing. But, it’s difficult to write a story about just sitting around a hostel; an experience like this might be memorable in its own way, but it doesn’t really pop when put into written word. That’s when I had the idea of maybe making a video instead.

    I dusted off my point-and-shoot camera and started recording a few things from everyday life – cooking, sitting around the lounge – that kind of stuff.  Everything in the video is shot on either my point-and-shoot or my phone. You also might notice that pretty much all the footage is just from me sitting around in the hostel. There’s really nothing about Swakopmund itself (even though it’s a really cool little place) because we rarely ventured further than the supermarket on non-surf days. But that was exactly the kind of thing I wanted to show; what do long term travellers actually do every day? 

    A couple of months later, I finally found time to sit down and sift through the footage and put something together. I was hit with a steep learning curve. Editing video takes forever! Or not so much editing itself, but trying to piece your clips together into a storyline that makes sense – I could sit there for hours just fiddling with ideas. And then learning how to actually edit the video to how it appears in your head is just as laborious. I’m talking hours and hours and then even more hours in front of the laptop, Googling different things and watching guides on Youtube, man…

    The thing is when you spend that much time on something, it’s pretty cool to see what pops out the other end. So even though I had a lot of frustrating nights putting this together, I learned a lot and enjoyed it. And now that it’s done, it’s cool that I’ve got this little souvenir of Swakopmund to keep forever. 

    So, enjoy. And let me know what you thought in the comments, I’d love to hear!

    Bren

    Did you enjoy the vid? Want more? If I get enough interest I’ll start making more in the future. Let me know you’re interested by subscribing to my Youtube page. Just hit the button below 🙂

     
  • A Day In Harare

    A Day In Harare

    I’m staying with a girl called Lyn. Couchsurfer. I’m sitting on her couch, relaxing with a cup of tea.

    Getting here though, was bit of an adventure.

    It was middle of the afternoon when I landed in Harare. Small flight. Lyn had already given me all the instructions the day before.

    “To get to my house you can take a combi from the airport, it’s 50 cents. Then when you get to town, take another combi to Westgate Red Roofs, it’s also 50 cents. Get off at Mopani road, the next street is mine! Or you can just take a taxi, it’ll be $30.”

    $30. Who am I, Bill Gates?

    I get to baggage collection. There’s a friendly airport guy standing around, not doing much. Looks like a security guard.

    “Excuse me, do you know where I can catch a combi?”

    He looks at me.

    “Where are you going?”

    “To Westgate Red Roofs.”

    “Ahh. Okay. You need to go to town first. Come, come.”

    He walks me out of the building.

    “Just walk out of the airport, to the big billboard there.”

    I follow his hand, pointing into the distance.

    “You can catch it right outside the gate. You need to change to another combi in town – just ask somebody where to go. Everybody is friendly!”

    His English is crisp, with the classic African accent.

    “Can I take this big bag on with me?” I ask, pointing to my backpack.

    “Of course! It’s no problem. Come I will walk you a little.”

    He walks me across the carpark, halfway to the airport gates.

    “So you see the big billboard over there. Just wait there. The combi will come.”

    I say thanks and keep walking. I realise I’ve never actually walked out of an airport before.

    I get to the main road. It’s quiet here, like empty suburban streets. The sidewalks are wide and dusty, the air is warm. I look at the different street corners, wondering where I’m supposed to wait. A man walks past.

    “Excuse me sir, is this where I wait for a combi?”

    “Yes you can wait just here. It will come. Where are you going?”

    “I’m going to town.”

    “Okay no problem, they will all go to town.”

    “And…uh…what exactly does a combi look like?”

    “A combi?!”

    He scrunches his face up.

    “It’s…like a bus!”

    “A small bus or a big bus?”

    “Just like, a small bus. When you see it, you will know!” he laughs, waving his finger. That’s a very African thing, I’ve learned – waving the finger when they say something funny.

    “So where are you coming from now?”

    “New Zealand.”

    “Ahh New Zealand! And how is New Zealand right now?”

    “It’s cold now. Not like Zimbabwe.”

    I’m actually sweating already. The sun is beating.

    “Yes, Zimbabwe is always okay!” he laughs, and I laugh with him.

    “Ok my friend, goodbye.” He shakes my hand and walks off.

    About ten minutes later the combi tumbles down the street. It’s a van, maybe a 20 seater, well loved and rusted, painted all sorts of colours. I see the doorman’s head hanging out the window. He sees me and bounces his eyebrows, as if to say, “you getting on?”

    I flick my eyebrows back at him, and the combi slows down and skids to a stop. He slides the door open. It’s packed full.

    I pat my backpack a couple of times and look at him. He grabs it without even thinking and magically finds space for it somewhere, then waves for me to get in the back. It’s times like these I’m grateful God made me a small guy. If I was one of those 6’4 Dutch guys, squeezing into a vehicle like this, it would be the most ridiculous, embarrassing moment of my life.

    I sit huddled in the back seat and watch Harare go by. CNN would make you believe this city is half burned to the ground with bodies lying the street, but it looks not too different to most other African cities I’ve been to. Gas stations, restaurants, people walking around, talking on cellphones, kids riding bikes, ladies at vegetable stands. You know, life.

    I feel a nudge in my side. The kid next to me is nudging me. Why is he nudging me? I look at him and he points to the front. The guy at the front is asking for money. I pass him the US dollar bill scrunched up in my hand. 

    About twenty minutes pass. We come to a stop and everyone starts to get off. I guess we’re in town. I do a thirty second “perimeter check”. It’s not as busy as I thought it would be. There’s traffic, but not a crazy amount. There’s people, but not a crazy amount. The roads are well worn and patchy. I’m at a big intersection. Weathered single storey buildings line every block, plastered with shop signs and advertisements. Street sellers crowd the footpaths, their little mats and stalls laid out with their trinkets. They’re offering everything from tupperware to cellphone cases to sneakers. Some African cities rumble with noise, but not this one. This one has more of a mild hum. Welcome to Harare.

    Before the combi takes off again I ask the doorman how to get to Westgate Red Roofs.

    He thinks for a second, then points somewhere in the distance.

    “Copacabana.”

    I look over to where he’s pointing and point with him.

    “That way?”

    “Yes, Copacabana.”

    He jumps back on the combi and takes off.

    I cross the road and head towards the Copacabana bus, I think.

    I feel eyes on me as I walk the streets. Asian guy in a snapback wheeling a backpack in the middle of Harare. I guess they don’t see that often around here. I look around. No white people. No Asian people. Just Africans. 

    I see a guy manning a little street stand who looks cool, and ask him for directions.

    “Excuse me…”

    He looks up.

    I smile. “How are you?”

    This is something I’ve learned in this part of the world. You always greet people before you ask them for something. Even if it’s just a question.

    “I’m fine my brother how are you.”

    “I’m cool. Can you show me where to get the combi for Copacabana?”

    “You’re going to Copacabana?”

    I nod.

    “You don’t need a combi my friend, you are already here!”

    I look at him, puzzled.

    He jumps up and points down the street.

    “You see the big red sign there?”

    I see it and nod.

    “Just walk there, and turn left on that street, you will be in Copacabana!”

    I get it now. Copacabana is the place of the bus stop. Not the name of the bus route.

    I say thanks and keep walking. He grins and goes back to his phone.

    The streets are a bit more crowded down this side of town. Some stare as I walk past. Some smile. Most just look for one or two seconds, then carry on with their day. As expected, things are slow here. People walk slowly. Talk slowly. Laugh slowly. I like it this way.

    I get to the red sign and turn left. A big crowd of combis is at the next block. I head over and ask one of the drivers.

    “Westgate Red Roofs?”

    He grabs my arm and shuffles a little so we can see around the corner.

    “There. Copacabana,” he points.

    I squint into the distance and see another crowd of people. I say thanks, he nods expressionlessly, not even a hint of a smile, and goes back to his day. He’s too busy to be dealing with silly tourists like me.

    I get to the corner, there’s another big crowd of combis here. I ask one of the guys, “Westgate Red Roofs?”

    He smiles a huge smile.

    “Copacabana! There!” He points even more blocks down.

    I smile and say thanks. He smiles back. Then he suddenly takes a karate stance and starts doing karate chops. 

    “Can you teach me?” he says, giggling. Karate chop. Another karate chop.

    “Next time,” I smile. We shake hands and I take off.

    I follow his directions, and pass through a little market, packed with people. Mats are laid out in grids, like mini streets, each one piled up with pyramids of clothes or shoes or toiletries. There’s lots of shouting and laughing. A few people smile at me, and I smile back.

    As I come out the other end, I see combis, and a guy shouting for customers. He’s built like a weightlifter, huge arms, in a green polo shirt and green shoes. He’s eating a popsicle, that’s green too. A+ for style. I ask him if he’s going to Westgate Red Roofs.

    “Westgate! Wait here,” he points beside him. “Just here. The bus is coming.”

    I sigh with relief. It’s been over an hour since I left the airport. I lean on my backpack, squashed in a crowd of combis. It’s chaos in here, there must be at least thirty of these vans all crammed in this little street, all fighting for customers, honking, shouting, laughing, sweating. I stand there like a village idiot, in the middle, boxed between them all.

    A guy walks past and shouts “Konnichiwa ni hao!” I turn and give him a smile. My face is getting sore from smiling and thanking.

    The guy standing beside me laughs, and asks where I’m going. I tell him I’m going to Westgate. 

    “Oh you going to that side, okay. You came from the airport?”

    I nod.

    “Yeah I saw you, I was on that same combi!”

    We stand there and chat for a while. 

    I feel a nudge on my thigh. I turn and see a combi ready to run me over. I guess they don’t beep horns here if they want you to move. They just hit you with their bonnet.

    I move away quickly.

    Finally the combi rolls up for Westgate. Green muscle man slides the door open and I jump in. The metal inside is worn and rusted, the seats all covered in colourful fabrics, also worn and holey. I sit there and wait for twenty minutes as it fills up. One by one all kinds of people get on. Students, ladies from the market, businessmen. When it’s finally full, we go.

    We roll out of town and into the suburbs. Everything looks…normal. Big houses with brick fences, traffic lights, bus stops, parks. Every now and then we stop and someone gets off, or someone gets on, or both. 

    One thing I always examine is people’s clothes. The ladies all wear colourful dresses, hair freshly braided. The boys usually dress a little more western – Nikes and hoodies. The men – shirts and pants, always.

    After a half hour we get to Westgate Red Roofs, so I know my stop is close. I tell the doorman I want Mopani Road. He nods at me, in that carefree African way.

    Then just a few stops later, he clicks his fingers at me.

    “Sssst. Mopani.”

    I jump out. The doorman plonks my backpack on the ground and points me to the street I’m looking for. Before I can even double check which one, the combi is gone. I get lost pretty quickly. It’s quiet. I look around, getting my bearings. There’s a few people wandering around, a little vege stand on the corner, kids playing. The roads are wide, paved and dusty. It looks like any regular neighbourhood. No street signs. I look around clueless for a few seconds, trying to make my best guess.

    Just a little lost. Relax. Done this a million times before.

    I ask a guy walking in front of me, in a fedora hat. We walk together for a few metres while he points me in the right direction. He’s friendly and has a really white smile. He sends me down a different road and continues walking on.

    I walk, walk some more, keep walking. My backpack wheels make a relentless duk-a-duk-a-duk on the pavement, drawing more attention than I want. It’s like the gringo signal, that sound. Whenever people hear it, they know some clueless foreigner is in their midst.

    I come across two kids, maybe ten years old, just loitering. 

    “Mopani Road?” I ask him.

    “Mopani?!” he shouts back. 

    Then he points at the road behind me. 

    I turn and give it a quick look, then turn back and give him a thumbs up. He bounces his eyebrows at me and walks away.

    I’m sweating hard now. Zimbabwe sun is hot and merciless.

    Finally, right down the end of the street I find her house number. I fiddle with the gate, looking for a bell, a latch, anything. But Lyn’s mother sees me and comes running out. 

    “Hello!” she smiles. As soon as the gate opens I extend a hand but she reaches her arms out for a hug. We go inside. Then we sit down for tea.

    Lyn pulls into the driveway an hour later. We meet and shake hands and hug for the first time. And then we sit and talk over tea as well. Over the next few hours I tell her a few travel stories, she tells me some funny Couchsurfer stories. It’s a lazy afternoon – my energy is low after my overnight flight and combi adventure. As the sun comes down, we start talking about dinner.

    I learn that Lyn’s mother loves KFC. Say no more! We jump in the car and head to the mall.

    Zimbabwe KFC is different. They have stuff I’ve never seen before, like sadza nuggets, and lime and chili zinger wings. I get them both. “Dinner’s on me!” I insist.

    Lyn’s mama is so joyous she takes a bunch of selfies of us all eating chicken. 

    After we’re full and smiling, we go across the road to the supermarket. I buy some yogurt and water, and then we wander through the whole supermarket, looking for KFC ingredients (we were watching Youtube videos about how to make it ourselves). It’s like a little welcome tour for me. Zimbabwean Supermarkets 101. But really, they’re no different to the supermarkets anywhere else in the world.

    After that, it’s back to the house for bed. I knock out as soon as my head hits the pillow.

    The next morning, Lyn takes me out to see the Harare Botanical Gardens. It’s $2 to get in. Nobody is there. It’s enormous, and semi-well maintained, large open fields with big trees scattered throughout. And silent. We wander around and chat. Then we sit under a tree and chat. We talk about our families. What we’re doing with our lives. Where we’re going. She tells me a lot about Harare, the Mugabe regime, the Zimbabwean people. It is always revealing to hear about this life from someone who actually lives and breathes it, rather than from some American lady in a newsroom. Those two stories, I’ve learned, are always very different.

    Lunch next. We’re both so hungry – we stop at the first Chicken Inn we see and get busy on some fried chicken and pizza. Lyn pays for it by text message, I don’t even get how it works. After that feast, I decide to wash it down with a bottle of Zimbabwe’s traditional maheu. It’s a fermented drink, from maize – I’ve been seeing it everywhere. I rip open the bottle and sip it once. Sip it twice. Sip it three times. No thank you.

    Earlier in the morning, Lyn asked if I could teach her how to swim. Sure, I said. So after lunch, we head to her local swimming pool. The sun is out, but I just know the water will be freezing, because the night was cold. I tell her, but she doesn’t believe me. We ask the guy at the desk if we can just go in and dip our hands in quickly. Lyn touches it once and walks right out.

    “I told you!”

    “Let’s just go get some snacks and chill.”

    We drive through the suburbs, talking and listening to some beats on my phone. She manoeuvres around potholes every now and then, like it’s second nature. Luckily the traffic is light out here. 

    Suddenly she pulls over by the side of the road.

    “What we doing?” I ask, looking around.

    “Getting snacks.”

    I jump out of the car and follow her to the corner. There’s an ice box and a bag of snacks just sitting on the roadside. 

    “What do you want?”

    Across the road there’s a crowd of women sitting under a tree, chatting. One of them gets up and leisurely walks over to greet us.

    Lyn grabs a bag of peanuts and Zimbabwean popcorn. 

    “Here, try this,” she says, handing it to me. I look at the packet. Peanuts and maputi.

    “You should try a Freeze-it too.”

    She opens the ice box. It’s full of little popsicles. They’re more like frozen bags of juice.

    “What flavour do you want?”

    Yellow of course! I reach in and grab one. 

    “How much is it?” she asks the lady.

    “10 and 10.”

    I hand her 20 cents and we walk off. I almost feel bad for paying so little.

    Lyn and I cruise around for the next hour, checking out street stalls for snacks while I suck on my Freeze-it. It reminds me of the ice blocks I used to eat at school. As I slouch in the passenger seat, people from the roadside get a glimpse of me and often stop and stare. Lyn and I already know what they’re thinking.

    Hey look, sister found herself a Chinese boyfriend.

    It was the same thing in the supermarket the night before. We laugh about it.

    We get home in the late afternoon. I’m flying tonight. 

    Lyn’s mama is cooking dinner. We’re eating sadza (like cornmeal/mashed potatoes), beef stew, some greens, and bugs. Yeah, bugs. They’re called mopani worms, I think. High in protein. It’s the wholesome home cooked meal I need to prep me for my flight.

    A few hours later, Lyn drives me to the airport. It’s a long drive, and we sit mostly in silence, listening to the radio. It’s two politicians arguing about Zimbabwe’s problems. Lyn keeps giggling during their talk.

    “This guy is seriously talking so much crap.”

    Lyn’s mama nods. I laugh with them. Politicians in New Zealand, politicans in America, politicians in Zimbabwe; all good at the same thing.

    We finally get to the airport. It’s dark outside, almost midnight. I haul my backpack out of the trunk and let out a smiling sigh. Farewell time.

    I give them both a long hug and thank them for everything. 

    “Keep in touch!”

    “Of course.”

    I wave at them as I walk in to the terminal.

    It used to be sad, doing this. Another hello. Another goodbye. But eventually you learn to see a little beauty in it.

    Just part of the Harare chapter in that backpacker life.

    Bren

  • Where To Stay In Singapore: The Ultimate Guide

    Where To Stay In Singapore: The Ultimate Guide

    Singapore is a gem.

    It’s easy to get around, cheap flights in and out every day, and the food is some of the best in the world (seriously, I spent 80% of my time eating).

    I’d say this is one of the best countries to visit as a family – endless activities, no need to worry about scams or traveller’s diarrhoea, and most tourist attractions are kid-friendly too. It’s also surprisingly visa friendly, with most countries able to visit visa-free.

    Not to mention – this might be the safest destination on the planet. No exaggeration – it’s not uncommon to see expensive bikes just left outside stores with no padlock. People often leave their phones on the tables at restaurants when they go to the bathroom. Crime here is punished with a severe stick, so it almost never happens. If safety is at the top of your list for a family vacation, this is the spot.

    It’s also great no matter what you’re looking for. Family vacation, great, but even as a solo backpacker or a few friends looking for a party, I believe you’ll find it hugely fulfilling too. 

    The question is, where to stay in Singapore?

    As small as the country is, it’s divided into some pretty unique neighbourhoods, all with their own quirks and attractions. Don’t worry though, I’ve got you covered. 

    One thing I’d also recommend for a first-timer to Singapore is the Singapore Klook Pass! My girlfriend and I visited recently and it was her first time in the country, so we grabbed the pass and saved so much money on Universal Studios, Gardens By The Bay, Night Safari and so much more.

    We did the 5-attraction pass with Universal Studios ticket (Universal is AWESOME by the way, definitely go). If you plan on doing a lot of sightseeing, the pass is super worth it. Check it out here.

    Map of Singapore

    Singapore is small and easy to navigate around, and its public transport system is a dream compared to many Asian cities.

    This means the question of where to stay in Singapore is not a huuuge decision, as you can visit all other areas of the country pretty easily anyway.

    However, it’s always nice to have things you like on your doorstep, and especially in the Singapore heat there will be days you don’t want to venture too far anyway.

    Below I’ve broken down the eight main areas in Singapore that are top choices for visitors. I’ll give you a brief run-down on what to expect from each, plus some accommodation options to suit every style and budget.

    I’ve suggested a few different accommodation options for each of these main areas, with something to suit every budget.

    1. Marina Bay

    Let’s kick this off with one of Singapore’s most famous areas – Marina Bay.

    You’ll probably be familiar with the Marina Bay Sands hotel, which is even more stunning in real life. Don’t worry, there are a lot of cheaper, more basic places to stay! This area of town is super fancy, packed with luxe hotels and shiny floors.

    It’s popular among tourists for several reasons, the main one being The Gardens by The Bay. For anyone unfamiliar, this is a little wonderland of tropical plants, towering structures and an amazing atmosphere.

    This haven is a complete contrast to the strips of skyscrapers and expensive bars and restaurants that line the water.

    If you like your cities buzzing with the finer things in life, this is the area for you. Couples will enjoy the expansive dining options and the sight-seeing that there is to do here.

    Marina Bay, Singapore Accommodation

    There are lots of shopping opportunities here, as well as great nightlife and fantastic food.

    Some of Marina Bay is a world away from other Asian cities, like hectic Bangkok, and it can take some time to adjust.

    If you look closely, however, you’ll find little local food places tucked down side streets, and canteens packed with locals enjoying ‘Kaya Toast’ – delicious coconut butter sandwiched between bread and topped with pandan or eggs.

    You can also go visit the sky deck at the Marina Bay Sands, even if you’re not staying at the hotel.

    Where to stay in Marina Bay?

    Pan Pacific Singapore is the ideal spot for anyone after a slice of luxury!

    This hotel is perfectly located in the centre of Marina Bay, meaning that you’re a stone’s throw from the main attractions, restaurants and bars. The rooms here are designed with comfort in mind, but are also very sleek. Relax by the outdoor pool and wind down in style.

    Get the best rate here.

    Also you can obviously stay at the famous Marina Bay Sands if you can get a room. I don’t actually know anyone who’s stayed here, everyone just seems to visit the viewing deck and maybe have a meal there, but I have heard it’s a stunning hotel as well. If it’s in your budget, go for it!

    You’ll find the best rate here.

    For the backpackers and budget travellers – there aren’t many cheap options available in this area! If you’re on a budget, try staying just outside Marina Bay in nearby Orchard Road, or maybe the CBD. Some suggestions below – keep reading!

    Looking for things to do on your trip? Check out these ideas:

    2. Orchard Road

    The ideal location for anyone who enjoys shopping, Orchard Road is home to a variety of accommodation options.

    Picture a long street, stretched out with malls, cafes and a whole lot of tourists.

    I loved this area for its friendliness and familiarity! Arriving in a new place can be overwhelming and, although you want to embrace the local culture, you sometimes need to camp out in a Starbucks for an hour.

    We spent almost every night walking up and down Orchard Road and never got bored. Always lots of street performers, delicious food and shopping to do!

    If you’re looking for a date idea, we made each other rings at Fewgram and it was way better than we expected – super professional and you actually get to make some high quality silverware!

    Orchard Road, Singapore accommodation

    Orchard Road is packed with local boutiques, international chains and fine dining spots.

    This area of Singapore is bigger than it looks, so wear comfy shoes and spend the day hunting down bargains. It’s very easy to reach from most other areas of Singapore, so you can still take a day-trip here if you choose to stay elsewhere. There are small patches of greenery along this strip of retail heaven if you need a break.

    If you’re travelling as a family, this is an ideal spot! There’s plenty of child-friendly entertainment, huge air-conditioned malls if you need a breather from the heat and all the comforts of home if you’re struggling. This area isn’t really angled towards solo travellers as the main activity is shopping, but it’s still a fun place to enjoy.

    Where to stay in Orchard Road?

    For the budget traveller

    Lloyd’s Inn is the perfect place for anyone wishing to explore Orchard Road.

    Its location is ideal, and the inn itself is very stylish. It feels more like a quirky Aribnb than a budget hotel. Forget grungy dorms and cluttered rooms – this place is all about minimalism! The space is nice and quiet, so is better suited to couples or friends travelling together. If you like clean lines, a European-vibe and calm garden areas, head here.

    Best rates here.

    For the high roller

    Stay at the Goodwood Park Hotel.

    Set in an old colonial style building with mega-spacious rooms, this might be the nicest hotel in the Orchard Road area. The pool is huge, making it the perfect place to come back to after a day of shopping! Goodwood is located near to Orchard Road without being in the busy, noisy nearby area. You get the best of both worlds with this luxe gem.

    Best rates here.

    3. Clarke Quay

    Clarke Quay is one of the best places to visit if you’re after something a bit lively. This is Singapore’s hub of nightlife, late-night dining and great music.

    The docks here are packed with mismatched buildings that have been redeveloped as trendy bars and clubs. The architecture itself is beautiful, and you can easily spend a whole day just wandering around the Riverside area.

    There are some beautiful, quiet areas if you want to get away from the thrum of the city. Make your way up to the nearby For Canning Park and take in the incredible views. Spend the evenings immersing yourself in its nightlife and fun atmosphere.

    Clarke Quay Bars

    If you fancy a night out, work your way around quirky old buildings, bar-hopping and making the most of the buzz.  This tends to be a pretty touristy area, but that’s definitely not a bad thing!

    Solo travellers are pretty much guaranteed a good stay here, as there are plenty of places to meet new people.

    It’s also the starting point for the famous Singapore River Cruise – worth doing if it’s your first time in the country.

    Where to stay in Clarke Quay?

    For the backpacker

    River City Inn is great for any travellers who want a dorm room without having to lower their standards.

    The rooms come in a variety of sizes, and are all nicely decorated and homely. If you’re planning to stay around the Clarke Quay area, this hostel is in the perfect location for you!

    Best rates here.

    For the budget traveller

    Champion Hotel City is a great choice for anyone travelling through Singapore on a budget.

    This hotel is just the right level of chic without breaking the bank. If you fancy being close to Clarke Quay, book a stay here and relax into a blend of relaxation and excitement. Quirky decor and a rooftop views await you!

    Best rates here.

    For the high roller

    Stay at Park Regis Singapore. This hotel is one of the most well-known on the island and offers the ultimate in comfort and luxury, and is an ideal location for those wanting to explore nearby Riverside. Bag yourself a spacious room with amazing views, a huge swimming pool and impeccable customer service.

    Best rates here.

    4. The CBD

    The Central Business District (CBD) is one of the cooler places to stay in Singapore, and is packed with expats and 20-somethings living abroad. While ‘the CBD’ technically covers many areas of Singapore, it’s mainly used to refer to the central zone just south of the river. It is often referred to simply as ‘The City’, due to the buzz of business and activity going on here.

    This area of Singapore is home to dazzling skyscrapers, hawker-food markets and amazing little cocktail bars. Grabbing a Singapore Sling at Raffles Bar is something well worth adding to your travel-checklist – when in Rome, after all…

    CBD Singapore, Singapore accommodation

    There are some little parts of this region that are total contradictions of themselves – tiny, colonial-era buildings squeezed next to huge, shimmering towers of commerce. You’ll be walking between mirrored shards of banks and businesses when a temple will randomly pop up. I love Singapore for its order, as well as its ability to surprise.

    The CBD is great for couples and group travellers, but it can be a little tricky to meet new people if you’re travelling alone. Those travelling with young children may feel a little out of place in the business-zone of Singapore, despite being very much welcome. Foodies will love the huge outdoor canteens and cheap food options!

    Do the classic hop-on hop-off bus if you want a hands-off tour of the city – it’s usually cheaper if you book online.

    Where to stay in Singapore CBD?

    For the backpacker

    Wink @ McCallum Street is a good choice. It’s slightly closer to the Chinatown side, but is still in a great location for anyone wanting to visit the CBD. You’re close to some amazing foodie havens, and the hostel itself is a lovely place to hang out. Stay here as a solo traveller and find plenty of new friends.

    Best rates here.

    For the budget traveller

    ST Signature Tanjong Pagar is within walking distance of the CBD area in Singapore, and offers everything a traveller could dream of. Clean rooms, friendly staff and great WiFi! This is a great place for anyone new to the world of hostels, as the rooms are all welcoming and spacious.

    Best rates here.

    For the high roller

     The Fullerton Hotel offers the best of the best.

    Imagine stunning views across The City, a ginormous pool to relax in alongside the hub of sky-rises and, incredibly, an indoor pool surrounding the lobby steps – with Koi Carp in it. See what I mean?! The best of the best.

    Best rates here.

    5. Chinatown

    As with most countries, Chinatown is one of the cheaper and quirkier places to stay. It’s within a short distance from other touristy areas (although, everything in Singapore is!) and is packed full of things to do. I loved this area for its eclectic mix of architecture – it’s both old and new; traditional and modern.

    There are lots of temples here that you can visit, often cornering streets of colourful-but-weathered buildings and newer coffee shops. Temple Street is the main section of Chinatown, and is lined with beautiful architecture and historic sites merged with modern attractions. Kitschy cafes make the perfect people-watching spots. 

    One great way to view the area and surrounds is through this popular Chinatown food tour – eat your way through the place while hearing the lore of Chinatown, which runs deep!

    This is a fantastic area to visit and stay if you have small children – there is always something new to distract yourself with, and simply walking around becomes a fun activity in itself. If you’re travelling alone, take your time exploring the various sites of worship, from Buddhist temples to mosques.

    Where to stay in Chinatown?

    For the backpacker

    The Bohemian is the perfect choice for anyone who wants to meet people without splashing the cash.

    It’s near to public transport links, meaning you can easily zip your way around if you’re on a bit of a tight schedule. The dorms are roomy and light, and there’s great WiFi connection throughout the hostel. This is a great accommodation choice for solo travellers.

    Best rates here.

    For the budget traveller

    Stay at Galaxy Pods.

    This is a pod/capsule hotel with a fun design, it will feel like you’re sleeping in a spaceship. Perfectly located if you’re wanting to spend time (eating, of course!) in Chinatown, and don’t have a huge budget.

    Best rates here.

    For the high roller

    Stay at PARKROYAL Collection.

    This is one of a series of luxury hotels in Singapore, with this particular location designed like something out of Avatar.

    A beautifully designed green building with a futuristic touch, the services and quality of this hotel are second to none. It has an entire wellness floor with gyms and pools, a garden walk above the city, and a fantastic Asian restuarant to serve you any time of day. Decadence mixed with style – you won’t be disappointed.

    Best rates here.

    6. Little India

    Little India Singapore, Singapore accommodation

    Little India is normally one of the first places I head to in a new city. The food, for one, is incredible. But I also love the general vibe of colour and fun and celebration that these areas bring. Singapore’s Little India is no different – streets lined with vibrant buildings, steam clouds scented with all the spices you can imagine and constant smiles.

    This is the perfect area to stay for any type of traveller. Solo adventurers will find friendliness on every corner; children will be entertained by the endless lights and  lanterns. This area of Singapore can feel a little bit touristy, but the food is delicious and authentic. Spend your days here wandering around street markets, ducking in and out of temples and indulging in chai tea.

    Where to stay in Little India?

    For the backpacker

    Little India is a fun and friendly place to visit, and 7 Wonders is a great spot to keep you in the centre of the action. offers just that in their hostel. The beds are comfy, you’re in an amazing location and the price is very reasonable! There are lockers to ensure security, and a nice chill-out area to meet other travellers. Best rates here.

    For the high roller

    One Farrer Hotel and Spa is right in the mix, but is a world away from the busy streets and lovable mayhem of Little India. If you like huge pools, in-house spa treatments and marble floors, this is the place for you. Every little detail has been carefully thought through, making this a beautiful place to escape and relax, while still immersing yourself in all that Singapore has to offer. Best rates here.

    7. Sentosa Island

    This little island is nestled just off the southern tip of Singapore. While Singapore isn’t usually viewed as a beach getaway, this island is perfect for lazy days. Hop across from mainland on a boat, or take the cable car over and enjoy the amazing views.

    This island is the perfect place for anyone seeking a bit more fun! Spend your days here at the Butterfly and Insect Kingdom, Oceanarium and Universal Studios Singapore. You can usually get cheaper entry tickets by booking all these online, so make sure you check the prices.

    Sentosa Island is great for families with small children, as there are plenty of attractions. The beaches here also make a lovely place to hang out and relax, making this an ideal destination for any sun-seeking couples. Nip over after a stay in the nearby CBD of mainland and wind down…

    Where to stay on Sentosa Island?

    Sofitel Singapore Sentosa Resort is the best place for anyone looking to live in luxury on this Singaporean island.

    Opt for your own private pool for those days when you can’t quite be bothered to walk to the nearby beach. This 5-star resort offers the best of everything, so get ready for a whole lot of pampering at their in-house spa.

    Best rates here.

    Budget travellers: Sentosa isn’t a great option for those on a budget. Try stay in one of the other areas and make Sentosa a day trip.

    8. Arab Quarter

    Another lovely gem in Singapore’s rich cultural tapestry, the Muslim quarter is a great place to visit. Packed with local charm and quirky buildings, the Arab Quarter is the place to visit for great food. Any European will be overwhelmed by the choice of cafes and hipster brunch spots – cafe culture here is way bigger than many areas of Asia.

    Get some clothes tailor-made and explore the fabric stalls. This is a wonderful place for anyone into textiles and art! It’s full of boutiques and corner shops crammed with hidden treasures. Head here as a solo traveller and immerse yourself in the vibrant culture, taking in the sights, smells and beautiful sounds from local mosques. If you’re wondering where to stay in Singapore for a bit of hipster love, this is the spot.

    Arab Street, Singapore accommodation

    This is a fantastic place to take small children, or travel alone. Hostels are available, but there are also world-class hotel resorts for those who enjoy the finer things in life. It’s also known as Bugis neighbourhood and has great transport links to other areas of Singapore.

    Where to stay in the Arab Quarter?

    For the backpacker

    Backpackers who are tight on money should book a stay at Bluewater Pods. It’s a short walk from Arab Street so you’ll be in a great location to explore, with lots of nice cafes and restaurants nearby. The decor is bright and cheerful, which makes a nice change from gloomy dorms! Best rates here.

    For the high roller

    Stay at Andaz by Hyatt Singapore.

    This hotel is everything you’d expect from a top-end 5-star hotel – spotless, sleek and classy. With a great on-site restaurant and nearby eateries to enjoy, you’ll be spoilt for choice. The rooms are BIG and light, giving you an amazing view of all that Singapore has to offer. Not to mention the huge pool, state-of-the-art fitness centre and just a few minutes from the buzz of the Arab Quarter.

    You won’t be disappointed. Best rates here.

    How To Get To Your Accommodation In Singapore

    Changi Airport has a metro station which will get you to most parts of Singapore easily for only a couple of dollars.

    However, keep in mind the last train leaves around 11pm, so if you’re arriving late at night you might not have access.

    There are also buses which are slightly harder to navigate but nothing you can’t figure out or ask for help with once you land.

    If you’d like to take a Grab (Singapore’s version of Uber) that’s also available and there’s a dedicated Grab pickup spot at arrivals. Grab is not that cheap in Singapore like it is in other parts of Asia, so expect to pay 2-3x more than you’d pay in somewhere like Bali or Thailand.

    Of course, airport taxis are also available, the good thing about Singapore is you don’t need to worry about taxi drivers hustling you as soon as you reach exit the terminal, all taxis are metered and you simply take the next one in the queue.

    The airport has a useful guide on how to leave the airport here.

    How To Get Around In Singapore

    Singapore has an excellent public transport system between the buses and trains, and if there is traffic, it won’t be like the gridlocked traffic you see in other parts of Asia. In Singapore owning a car is very expensive, so most people don’t drive, and as a result the roads are (mostly) free-flowing.

    My recommendation for most first-time visitors is to use the MRT (metro) to go most places, but have the Grab app available on your phone in case you’re ever stuck in the rain, or find yourself far from a station. Singapore is very hot and the rain comes down hard, so there are times when walking isn’t going to be fun!

    The cost to get around Singapore is very affordable, and you shouldn’t pay more than a few dollars a day on the metro system. Get yourself a concession card if you’re using it daily, which you can buy at any ticketing booth.

    Getting Internet In Singapore

    You can actually buy your tourist sim before you arrive in Singapore by getting an esim online.

    Singtel has plans available here, so you’ll be sorted as soon as you land.

    You can also buy a global esim if you’re planning on visiting a few countries in a short period. I use Airalo.

    Alternatively, you can just buy your sim at arrivals when you land, which is also very straightforward. If you somehow forget to do that, you can buy a tourist sim at any 7-Eleven convenience store. However, self-bought sims do take some fiddling around on your phone to set up, so it’s much easier to have it done for you at a proper mobile shop.

    Safety In Singapore

    Singapore is arguably the safest country in the world and the chance of violent crime happening to you here are almost zero. Law and order is paramount and even if you leave your Ferrari unlocked with a bag full of cash inside, I’d be willing to bet nothing will ever happen to it. Singapore is safe!

    However – with safety comes strictness, and laws in Singapore are very strict. Do not litter, do not be drunk and disorderly in public and whatever you do, do not get involved with any drugs at any time for any reason! Drug offences are punished extremely harshly in Singapore, and there have been several famous cases where foreigners received the death penalty trying to sell or use drugs in the country.

    Behave yourself, use your common sense, and Singapore will likely be the safest and most stress-free destination you ever visit.

    Enjoy Singapore!

    Bren

    Looking for things to do on your trip? Check out these ideas:

    Photo Credits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, Featured Image

  • A Few Thoughts On Namibia

    A Few Thoughts On Namibia

    A few weeks ago I didn’t know anything about Namibia, other than the fact that the new Mad Max was filmed there (and even that didn’t mean much – I still haven’t seen it). I just figured the country had a lot of desert. I also noticed their rugby team was full of white guys when they came to play in New Zealand, so I presumed the country had some European elements too. Other than that I knew nothing (like my buddy Jon Snow).

    Namibia turned out to be a nice surprise. Quick history lesson: The Germans got here first. They came and built all this German looking stuff (really straight roads, parallel lines, geometry nerd stuff). Then in WW1 the South Africans came and smoked the Germans and took over. They enforced apartheid and turned it into a second South Africa. Later on when Europe started granting African colonies independence, South Africa refused (I guess they really liked the sand dunes or something). Even the UN ordered South Africa to get outta there but they didn’t want to. That’s when “South West Africa”, as it was known back then, got a liberation army together, did some guerilla stuff and finally got independence in 1990. Namibia was born.

    Namibia seems to fit that history nicely. At only 27 years old, it feels like a resilient adolescent, still choosing a path, working hard to be seen, searching for an identity. But it also feels like a place not too sure of its voice yet, and not stomping its feet too loudly. More Khalid than Kanye (how you like that for a music reference!)

    Here’s a quick recap of my tour around the country.

    Swakopmund

     

    A post shared by Bren (@brenontheroad) on

    This is where we started, but lasting first impressions were made before we even reached the town. As we made the long drove up from Walvis Bay airport, we passed miles of untouched coastline. The water was brimming with endless peeling 4 foot waves, not a single surfer out there. I’d barely been in the country 15 minutes, but had already pledged to come back with a surfboard and shake hands with that ocean. Hopefully sometime soon.

    We got to the town of Swakopmund around 40 minutes later. It’s a sleepy place of around 70,000 – a small main square, typical of most small towns, with many different coloured faces walking around. Quite cosmopolitan. This is also a good launching point to visit the famous Namibian dunes (I’ll get to that soon).

     

    A post shared by Bren (@brenontheroad) on

    We didn’t do much here. Walked around town, strolled along the beach, wandered through all the supermarkets. The German influence is very apparent, similar to other German-developed towns on the continent. There’s a little bit of edge to this place too. It has a few fancy restaurants, long stretches of beach, a lot of sunshine. It’s very brown and sandy, like the desert, but it has everything you need. Other than that, I can’t tell you much. I only stayed one night.

    Windhoek

     

    A post shared by Bren (@brenontheroad) on

    From Swakopmund we headed to Windhoek – an interesting name for a capital. I looked into where that name came from; nobody seems to know for sure. Also for some reason the only photo I have is of the supermarket, so that’s all I can show you right now!

    The rest I shall illustrate with words. First, in the foot of that photo you’ll see a display of little packets of meat. That’s biltong, Namibia’s answer to beef jerky. I ate many packets in one week. You must try it.

    As for Windhoek itself, it’s very low energy for a capital, at least during the day. There are shopping streets and malls, like any other you’d see around the world, lots of appealing restaurants, people of all colours walking around, a noticeably hip fashion sense. It’s almost a mini Johannesburg. I didn’t really get a chance to explore, but it feels young. I can imagine there’s a fun social scene behind the curtain, if you get the chance to look.

    Another thing I noticed were a lot of luxury cars – a Mercedes or BMW around almost every corner, sparkling as if they get waxed every morning. Where does all this money come from? 

    On the flipside, there’s a more modest side to Windhoek too. Close density housing with the telling sea of corrugated iron rooves, winding mazes of dusty roads and pop-up shops. But passing through these areas always saw crowds of kids running and playing in the streets, gates left open, people riding bikes around. Things like that are usually a sign it’s a safe and close-knit community, rather than areas of hopelessness or crime. 

    Around the streets of Windhoek I got a lot of smiles, waves, curious stares. It felt like a friendly place.

    My 48 hour impression was: Windhoek is cool. You could have a lot of fun here.

    Heading to Windhoek? Check out my city guide.

    Etosha National Park

     

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    Etosha National Park is one of the biggest game reserves in Africa. It’s quite a drive up from Windhoek (around five hours), although this seems to be a standard component of most African safaris. Safari parks aren’t just sitting in the middle of cities, after all.

    On our first game drive we saw all the standard stuff (zebras, giraffes, elephants, impalas, warthogs). We didn’t get to see many cats, save for a couple of distant sleeping lions. Compared to the Serengeti, where you see a good handful of lions every day (and sometimes cheetahs and leopards, if you’re lucky) it was a bit lacklustre.

    After setting up camp that night, we headed off to see the waterhole. This is something cool about the Etosha campsites. They’ve built them around waterholes, so even during the night, you can walk over to the waterhole (fenced, obviously), and see if there is any wildlife wandering around. They’ve been set up like little stadiums, so you can sit there for hours (all night if you want to, it’s 24 hours) and watch life in the wild unfold. 

     

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    This touches on what Etosha really has going for it – there might not be as many lions or leopards around, but the campsites are super well maintained. When I camped in the Serengeti it was like going to war in the 1920’s. We all tented up on a large patch of dirt, no facilities, the toilets were some of the skankiest I’ve ever seen. You couldn’t pay me to use them again.

    Etosha is the opposite. The campsites are run by Namibia Wildlife Resorts, and have hot showers, real toilets, soap and toilet paper. There’s wifi (for a fee), swimming pools, and shops where you can buy snacks, booze and souvenirs. At each camping post there are also plugs where you can charge your phone and camera. And that’s for the campers. I imagine the actual suites are lavish.

    They even had a cable TV where I managed to catch the Mayweather v McGregor fight at 4 in the morning in the middle of nowhere. Go Etosha!

    I’m not really an animal kind of guy, after a couple of safaris, gorillas and Galapagos, I think I’m done with the wildlife thing. But if you’re looking to do your first safari, Etosha isn’t a bad choice at all.

    Sossusvlei

    Sossusvlei is an area of the Namib Desert, a UNESCO heritage site and also home to the famous Dune 45 and the world’s biggest sand dune, Big Daddy. 

    If you hadn’t guessed, the desert is vast. This is a good place to come if you want to feel small and insignificant (and hot and sweaty). You need to take a tour to visit this place, indie travel would be difficult here.

    On our first day, we woke before sunrise and climbed up Dune 45 to catch the sunrise. It’s a steep but rewarding climb, if you can manage to wake that early. Not so many do, so it’s got a small crowd, but not an overwhelming one.

     

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    From there we took a 6km trek over to Big Daddy. It was packed with tourists when we got there, and the sun was really dishing out punishment. For reasons I won’t go into (let’s just say Germans aren’t always punctual and Chinese tourists do some really weird shit sometimes) we were a few hours behind schedule and didn’t have time to climb the monster dune. Ideally I would’ve been able to sit here right now and tell you I’ve climbed the world’s biggest sand dune! Sadly I cannot, but I’m sure one of you will be able to do it for me 😉 It would be a stunning view from the top, if you ever get the chance.

    As for the campsites out in Sossusvlei, they’re just as good as Etosha – good showers, a bar, a pool, power sockets, real toilets. Not a bad place to spend a few days on the road.

    The verdict

    That was my week in Namibia. Short, but interesting, different from what I expected.

    For a country that’s only 27 years old, it impresses. The streets are clean, supermarkets well stocked and there are coffee shops and shopping malls that wouldn’t look out of place in Europe or Australia. Lots of nice houses line the wealthier streets. Things are orderly and well kept, people relaxed and it’s hard to feel unsafe walking in the main areas. Some of it is certainly the Africa you see on television, but much of it is not. Of course it lacks a few things, like a good public transport system and zippy internet, but for a country barely out of its teens you can let that slide (let’s be fair, New Zealand doesn’t have those things either, even after a few centuries). Like with all good things, it’ll come in time. Besides, they make up for it with the best bacon biltong in the world!

    If you’re ever in that part of the world, I’d say it’s well worth the journey over. Don’t forget your surfboard.

    Bren

  • Things Are Nice In Switzerland

    Things Are Nice In Switzerland

    I arrived in Switzerland on a cold morning. I forget which day exactly, Friday I think. I’d just stepped off an overnight bus from Berlin, still a little sleepy, and hovered around the bus station trying to find my bearings. A Starbucks was nearby, so I stood outside, praying to the travel gods for a free wifi.

    It worked.

    I logged in and GPS’d myself. I wasn’t far from the centre of Zurich, a couple of kilometres. Feeling a sniff coming on, I looked for a juice bar – a carrot and ginger juice always kept the flu running scared. Like your usual OCD traveller, I stood shivering in the cold, op-shop jacket and H&M discount beanie, reading the reviews of every single juice bar in Zurich’s centre. Then I walked.

    It took me twenty minutes to get there, lugging my bag along Zurich’s streets. They were surprisingly empty. It was only 7 a.m., but I’d envisioned a more bustling centre for a city as prominent as this. Often I would turn a corner, and not a single soul in sight.

    I found the juice bar without trouble. There was nobody in there, of course, I was the first. I ordered the standard vege juice, extra ginger, extra lemon. The guy spoke perfect English. The juice was perfect too. What wasn’t perfect was the price. Backpacker dollars don’t go so far when converted into Swiss francs.

    My friend Lara, who I had arranged to stay with, was going to meet me after her classes that evening. I had around 11 hours to kill. What does one do in a Zurich autumn for 11 hours?

    Sit in the juice bar and charge my phone, first of all. I did that for an hour. Then, exploring.

    Zurich is extremely slick. Streets are picture perfect, trees groomed, buildings all clean and full of character, expensive looking cars everywhere. It’s like a rich people suburb, but the size of a whole city.

    I wandered over to the river first, which remains nameless in my head. It looked cleaner and more polished than the rivers running through other European cities. At least the surrounds did. I remember seeing a young couple sitting on some stairs by the river’s edge. They were laughing about something. I wondered why they’d choose to sit outside on such a cold morning.

    I went to the supermarket next. I’m not sure why, but I expected Swiss supermarkets to be spectacular. They’re actually quite ordinary. I wandered through the produce section, wondering what I wanted to eat. Silly, because I already knew what fruits I would be buying before I went inside: The cheapest ones.

    One thing that’s funny about supermarkets around the world is the rules are always different, which is expected, but the problem is they don’t display the rules anywhere; you’re just expected to know. So in some countries you weigh your own apples, in others you take them over to a special counter and they’ll weigh them for you, and other countries they just weigh them at the checkout. Sometimes there will be a weighing machine but it doesn’t work, which leads to even more questions. Are you supposed to weigh your own apples, and the machine just happens to be broken today? Or is it broken because they stopped using it five years ago? Of course you don’t want to get it wrong, because you might end up getting to the checkout and then the lady tells you, you need to weigh your fruit. Now you’re that silly gringo running back to the produce section while everyone waits for you. Luckily there was no guesswork this time, the supermarket had a nice big weighing machine in the middle of the floor, with all these Swiss grandmas tagging their vegetables.

    After wandering the isles for too long, I got to the checkout and panicked after realising one of the weighing stickers had fallen off my cucumber. I rummaged through the basket, trying to find it. Not there. I shrugged at the checkout lady, and she shrugged back at me.

    “You need to weigh it again.”

    So there I was – law of attraction – the dumb tourist with a cucumber running through the supermarket.

    My next stop was a small park, perched on a hill high above the city. It was actually a pretty tough hike up there, with my bags and all. I found a bench and spread out, picnic style. My bounty from the supermarket consisted of some tomatoes, a cucumber, a couple of apples, a pack of salami, a pot of yoghurt and a baguette the size of my arm. I lounged up there for almost an hour, relaxing, listening to music, eating breakfast. Or was it lunch? When you’re on the road those words become meaningless sometimes, as does the clock; you just eat when you’re hungry.

    Looking over Zurich

    The rest of the afternoon escapes me – just blind wandering, probably. I suppose one thing travel makes you good at, sitting in all those airports, is killing time. People watching, wandering in and out of shops, listening to your own thoughts. It was five o’clock before I knew it. I headed to the train station and sat under the big clock. Lara showed up five minutes later.

    Lara was an old friend I’d met on my travels a few years back. We studied French together in Montpellier, and struck up an unexpected friendship over the short month we knew each other. She was only 16 at the time, me 28. Bizarre in regular life, for sure; not so much on the road. Two years later, we were here, meeting again in the middle of Zurich central station. We hugged, and laughed. It was like we didn’t really know each other, yet we did.

    After a quick Zurich dinner we jumped on the train, and arrived at her home late at night. The neat thing about Switzerland is it’s so tiny. You can jump on a train and be anywhere in the country in a matter of hours. Lara’s family lived in a tiny town called Unterägeri, in the middle of who-knows-where. We walked from the bus stop, through picture-perfect streets and snow capped mountains, like a winter Pleasantville. An oddly bright moonlight gave everything – houses, trees, cars – a fitting glow. The roads were empty and damp from the earlier rain, and I remember a silence, so sharp I was cringing listening to my broken backpack wheels squeaking against the pavement.

    Of course, their home turned out to be beautiful. Anything less would have looked out of place in that neighbourhood. Floor to ceiling glass windows opened out to the massive plains outside, the size of thirty football fields, green and white covered mountains sitting behind them. Her parents warmly welcomed me in like an old family friend and showed me to my bed downstairs. Guest room, ensuite. Luxury. I dropped my things and flopped on the bed like a toddler.

    For the next few mornings I woke up to fresh snow falling on the fields and hills outside, breakfasts of freshly baked bread, fresh fruit and Swiss cheese. Her mother washed and dried all my dirty underwear as if I were her own son, her father indulged me in long conversations each night at the dinner table long after the plates were cleared. They were a family who couldn’t have been more welcoming to this backpacking stranger; one who had nothing to share but smiles and a few old stories. One might not always have money to travel, but one can always afford to say hello, stay in touch, be polite and giving to whomever he meets on any given day. That in itself seems to end up paying for more than any paycheck in many places around the world.

    Lara’s backyard looks like this…

    That Sunday morning Lara took me for an early walk around Unterägeri. First we visited a small townhouse, where people were selling arts, homewares and crafts, all very Swiss and shiny, and then she showed me the lakes where she swam as a kid, now lined by autumn trees and carpets of orange leaves, the summer spots where families came together to enjoy the short windows of sun. People often are hesitant to show me small towns, “Mr. Traveller”, thinking I may be bored or unimpressed, but I always find them heartwarming and satisfying. Big cities usually just remind me of alarm clocks, ironing shirts and miserable people. Small towns are always a little closer to humanity. When I see one, I’m always relieved that places in the world like them still exist.

    For the rest of my stay, like a perfect host, Lara showed me around her tiny country. The old town of Zug, the little bars and restaurants of Luzern, the perfectly polished streets of Aarau. Everywhere we went, it was always clean, always quiet, always beautiful. Everyone wore those boots with the fur, and the expensive looking coats with fluffy collars. Between the intricate cocktails and the Swiss pastries in fancy shapes, everything in this tiny country just felt nice. Switzerland may not be the place for wild adventure, but if it’s pleasantness, pretty places, tranquility, and a parade of impossibly shiny towns lined up one after the other, there may be no better place in the world than this.

    Things are nice in Unterägeri

    The night before I left, Lara and I had dinner at a tiny restaurant in Aarau. It was a place telling of the Switzerland I had pieced together in my head, hidden away on the second floor of some building, somewhere, in some street. Surprisingly it was almost full; we picked up one of the last free tables in the joint. The waiter kindly greeted me in English, and between a mini splurge on snacks and drinks, I remember watching the streets outside the window, literally barren, not a single person in sight. Aarau was silent, on first glance one would think “Nothing happens here”. Yet sitting around us were groups of young girls chatting, a few older couples, and some younger ones too, all dressed in nice clothes, eating fancy food. As many places as I’ve seen in my life, this still amazes me – all these tiny inconspicuous spots around the world – most people will never even hear the name, let alone visit – yet there are people born here, living here, making friends here, working, falling in love, raising grandkids – living a good life, just like you and me. How can you not be curious about that? I guess that’s what travelling is, in its purest form: Curiosity about the people we never know and never meet.

    The streets of Aarau are silent

    The following morning Lara dropped me at the train station, my backpack and I headed back to Zurich. I would be on a plane the next day, my six month jaunt of Europe finally over, this goodbye a fitting finale. I told her once again to stop smoking, like a big brother, she rolled her eyes at me, like a rebellious little sister. We didn’t know when we’d see each other again. It didn’t matter. Travel friendships are simply that way. If you meet again, you pick up where you left off. And if you don’t, you don’t. A mini globetrotter herself, she knew it as well as I did. We hugged, I thanked her for everything, and we smiled goodbye. No tears or drama or weird stuff. Just a farewell nod, until next time.

    So, what is the moral of this story?

    Nothing.

    Travel doesn’t always need to be wow. Nothing incredible or or story-worthy needs to happen. Sometimes it’s just wandering a city, catching up with an old friend, drinking some Ovaltine in a fancy cup and then heading on your way. You came. You were there. You left. Nobody said it needed to be crazy. If anything, travel should teach us to see the beauty in the small moments like these. Walking a new street. Breakfast with some new faces. Conversations. If we can appreciate all of that, our travels – and our lives – will always be something to remember.

    Travel safe. Be kind to each other.

    Bren