Sending money overseas is more complicated than it should be. Bank to bank transfers are usually expensive, and most cash-pickup services are prohibitively expensive.
This has been a large issue for me over the years, as I am constantly sending and receiving money to and from foreign countries. I’ve tried most services online, all of them work fine, but many are costly and some take longer than others. I’ve had times where more than 10% was chopped off my transfer on the other end.
It was late at night, probably 2am, something like that. I was supposed to be preparing for an accounting workshop, which meant I was scrolling through Facebook, my accounting notes in front of me.
I watched the video again. And then again. Again. One more time. I don’t know how many times exactly, but it was enough that when I watch it today, I still remember all the words by heart, nine years later.
It was a clip by Scott Harrison, the founder of charity: water. He’d made a video about how he’d just been to Kenya, and visited a hospital which had no clean water. It was his birthday, so he went back home and asked everyone to donate $32, as he was turning 32. He returned to Kenya a few months later, and made a video of him digging a well, live, for all his donors to see.
That hit me in the soul. I’m not sure if you’ve had one of those moments where something really hits you in the soul. Like wow, I’m never going to forget this. But that’s what it did. Right in the soul. I wanted to fly to Africa, that moment, in the middle of the night. What if I could just drive to the airport, right now, get on a plane, save some lives. Maybe I could start being awesome like him.
Of course, that never happens.
I brushed my teeth, went to bed and showed up again for work the next day. But I promised myself: When my birthday came, I’d do a campaign, just like his one.
When my birthday finally arrived the following year, I hadn’t forgotten about Scott. I was turning 25, and was so pumped to get started I registered as a donor two months early. I needed to raise $5,000 to fund a water project.
Easy, I thought. If 200 people donate $25, we’re done! I had 500 friends on Facebook, 130 people at the office, I’ll throw in a few hundred myself. Plus, charity:water was so proactive with transparency, they GPS’d every project on Google Maps, gave 100% of proceeds to projects. How could people not want to be a part of something this awesome?
Then I started asking for money.
I messaged every friend I had on Facebook. Every single one. I was surgical with it. I put every name into a spreadsheet, categorised them into sports friends, school friends, work friends, I recorded dates, recorded their responses. If they said no, I blacked them out. Non believers. If they didn’t respond, I noted to ask again in a week. If they said yes, I noted to follow up in 3 days. I printed business cards with all the campaign details, handed them out to friends, workmates. It felt like the most important undertaking of my life. I didn’t care how much work was needed. I was going to raise the money.
Donations trickled in. My closest friends, my Mum, all the usual suspects. Happy birthday, they all wrote. Great cause. But for every person that said yes, five said no, five ignored me, one would say it was stupid. I needed to up my game.
I arranged a meeting with the CEO at work a few weeks later. It was the monthly company meeting that Friday, the entire firm was going to be gathered in the presentation room. Normally it was a meeting for the CEO and directors to talk about business stuff, but I asked if he’d give me ten minutes. Just ten minutes. To talk about the cause, to show everyone a video. I told him it was important to me.
He said yes.
I got up in front of the entire firm that Friday, screened my video, talked to everyone about the water crisis. 45,000 people will die this week because of no water. We just need $5,000. I really will go to Ethiopia to visit the project. I’ll show you all what we’ve done.
A few people looked at me confused. I watched a girl give an eye roll to the girl beside her. I’ve never forgotten it. These were the same people I watched drop a hundred dollars at the bar on Fridays like it was nothing. 130 people worked in that office, probably half were in the top tax bracket. Outside of my ‘office friends’, four people donated. The CEO wasn’t one of them.
That weekend, I went to dinner with four friends. They were friends I’d known a long time, although friends I didn’t see often.
“So I’m just gonna say it. What is UP with this water thing man?”
“What do you mean?”
“Like, what are you doing?”
“Raising money for charity.”
“But like, since when did you do this stuff? Just tell me, is it girls? You’re doing it to get girls?”
“It’s a good cause, it’s what I want to do.”
“But how do you even know it’s real? It just looks like a scam. How do you know it’s not a scam?”
“It’s not a scam.”
“It just looks stupid bro. It’s STUPID.”
“It does look scammy, Bren,” another girl said.
I looked around the table. The others were nodding.
I didn’t say anything.
“It’s okay bro, here, let me pour you some water.”
He picked up the jug and filled my glass.
“That’ll be $25 USD.”
The table laughed.
None of them donated.
I went even harder. I tapped everyone I knew. Made promises.
This is real bro. I’ll go to Africa one day. I’ll show you exactly where this money’s gone.
Some donated. Most didn’t.
My girlfriend was next.
“Really?” she asked me one day. “You really want to go to Africa?”
“Yeah.”
“But…why?”
Two months later, I’d raised the money. $5,185. I thanked every person individually, publicly. Best birthday ever. Those people who donated, they’re the same people still in my corner today.
Eighteen months later, charity: water sent me the project report. The well was built. We’d provided clean water to a 1,000 person village in Ethiopia.
Twenty four months later, I boarded a plane to Ethiopia. I landed in Addis Ababa, travelled north to Axum, trekked five hours into the village in the middle of nowhere. The well was there. They’d even put my name on it. I made a video, uploaded it to Facebook, sent it to everyone. They all loved it. We did it. But I always knew we would. It was everyone else who needed convincing.
Two months after I finally quit that accounting job, I travelled to Tanzania. I stayed in a volunteers hostel with around 20 other people, each of us working on different non-profit projects around town. The first night at dinner, I sat next to a guy called Raul, a photographer who had travelled from America with a suitcase of disposable cameras, using them to teach photography to streetkids. Sitting on the other side of me was Jamie, a Dutch nurse who had just come from Malawi, where she told me how she’d just saved a kid’s life in a village where doctors were non-existent. Even though I’d known them for less than an hour, I felt more at home in those conversations than I ever did in that office.
It was during that trip a couple of Israeli guys from the hostel needed to raise some money. The orphanage they were working at needed school supplies. They asked everyone in the hostel if they’d give a little and they’d cook everyone an Israeli meal.
Everyone donated.
Life was never the same after that trip.
Question: Ever feel like people around you just don’t get you?
It’s because they don’t.
Ever feel like people around you are all the same?
It’s because they are.
That’s what happens when people are around each other for a long time. We become like each other. The place we grow up might be the most influential part of who we become, but the unfair thing about it is, we don’t get to choose it.
Another funny thing about homes is, they’re hard to leave, because we don’t know what else is out there.
So when we don’t fit in, we just accept that we don’t fit in. We don’t have as many friends as other people. Don’t like to do the same things as other people. Everyone’s watching rugby. Oh ok, I guess I’ll watch rugby. Nobody likes your idea. Oh I guess my idea was stupid.
Nah – it’s not stupid.
They’re stupid.
You’re awesome.
When I watched that girl roll her eyes during my speech, it told me what I already knew: I was in the wrong place. When my friend started making fun of my campaign, it told me what I already knew: These were the wrong people.
When I sat at dinner with those two volunteers, I knew that place would be different. Almost by accident, I’d found the right place, the right people. People that were travellers at heart. People that were givers at heart. Those were the people I needed to be around, to live the life I wanted.
I’ve spent my whole life in that community ever since.
While reading through the story above, it might sound like passing judgement on those people from my old life. I’m not. I really don’t care what they do with their life or their money. I hope they do whatever makes them happy.
The point of the story was, to be a champion, you need to be around people who champion the things you believe in. When you tell them about the things that excite you, it should excite them too. You shouldn’t be begging for donations, they should be asking how they can support you. Instead of spending all your energy trying to turn them into believers, they should be hyping you up so much you start to believe the impossible.
Maybe you want to ride your motorcycle across America.
People at home will poo poo that idea all day.
Oh yeah, but you need money to do that.
You can’t just quit your job!
It’s dangerous man. Let’s be realistic.
You share the same idea in a hostel at breakfast, you’ll probably have half the trip planned before lunchtime.
Sounds awesome, why don’t you start this month? It’s summer.
I met a guy who did that last year, want his number? He might even rent you his bike.
Why don’t you add in Mexico and Canada too? You’ll only need another month or two.
Usually, chasing our dreams isn’t even hard. It’s the people around us that hold us back. They don’t even need to say anything. They roll their eyes at you, change the subject, wince a few times. Maybe those are small things, but 18 years of those small things can kill anything.
Remember my girlfriend who said going to Africa was a dumb idea?
Compare that to someone you meet on the road.
I’ve never met anyone on the road who said going anywhere was a dumb idea.
North Korea? I’ve met people who’ve been to North Korea. Loved it. Afghanistan? I’ve met people who’ve been there too. Congo? Know tons of people who went to the Congo. Best trip ever, they said.
To the wrong people, everything’s dumb. To the right people, everything’s possible.
That Friday after giving my talk at the staff meeting, something interesting happened. I was approached by a young guy. He was a candidate for the following year’s graduate intake, and had been invited to join the meeting and mingle with staff after his interview.
I’d noticed him actually, while I was speaking. He stood out, the only face in the room I didn’t recognise.
“That was really cool man,” he said to me, shaking my hand. “It’s so cool people do that kind of stuff here!”
We talked for a short while, before he moved on to some of the higher ups.
“Make him feel at home,” my boss came and said to me, obviously having seen us talking. “He’s a rockstar. We really want him.”
A few weeks later, I saw him again, walking around the office with the HR lady. She walked him past my desk and stopped to introduce him.
“This is Daniel, he’s just signed a grad contract for next year.”
“Yeah we’ve met,” I told her, shaking his hand again. “Congratulations.”
“He was particularly excited to be joining your team,” she said, smiling.
“Your talk was awesome man. I’m looking forward to working with you.”
I glanced at the HR lady, who gave me a knowing stare behind her smile. I’d handed in my resignation weeks ago. She’d already arranged my exit interview. Obviously she hadn’t told him.
I should have pulled him to the side. Told him the truth. This isn’t the place for you. What you saw at the meeting, you’re not going to find it here. Tear up that contract, find yourself a place where people give a shit about these things, where people are inspired about the same things you are.
I turned back to him and smiled.
“Yeah man. Looking forward to it.”
But the things I couldn’t say to him that day, I can say to you now.
Never doubt the big ideas you have inside. If people don’t see what you see, it’s not you, it’s them. Find a different them. Even if it’s a random meetup on the internet, a Facebook group, a tiny forum on some weird website, make an effort to find the tribe that will never stop pushing you. Find the tribe that sees what you see. Find the tribe that will cheer like crazy when you get there.
Because every idea that lights you up is an awesome idea. Forget non believers. Find your people and ride, because we’re all cheering for you.
See you out here dreamer.
B
Food in the Ivory Coast was not what I expected.
I recently spent several weeks eating my way through the economic capital of Abidjan, doing my best to sample as much of the local cuisine as possible. I was expecting some similarities to east African cuisines, which generally have soft and mild flavours, but Ivory Coast food is not like that at all – it’s sharp and spicy, with extra chilis on top!
As your intro to Ivorian food, I’ve collated a list of 16 things I think you should look out for on your next visit.
Enjoy!
Attiéké is one of the main staples in Ivory Coast cuisine and you will see it everywhere.
It’s made from fermented cassava, which is granulated so it becomes like couscous in texture. You usually eat it with your hands – just smush it into a ball and pop it in your mouth, similar to how the Indians eat rice and curry.
It can be served with almost anything; you will see it served as a side with most dishes, or sold streetside on its own in small plastic bags.
What’s it taste like? Mild, it’s a little bit sour. Really filling too, so you should never be hungry here. Out of the staples listed below it was probably my favourite, I found myself choosing it for most of my meals!
Alloco is basically a heart attack on a plate.
It’s made from plantains (green bananas), which are cut up into bits or slices, then deep fried until they’re super brown and crispy. The serving is usually large and they’re soaked in oil, so you know eating them will make your arteries cry (but of course you do it anyway because they’re so yummmm).
They have a touch of sweetness which makes them a nice change from french fries, plus they’re softer and chewier too. You see this eaten a lot more at nights, usually with the all the chickens being grilled around town. The locals love it.
Foutou is an interesting dish, I actually watched one of my friends make it from scratch and it took forever.
First, the cassava and the bananas are boiled.
After that they are left to cool a little, and then they get pounded in this big bowl. They need to be pounded one by one so it doesn’t come out lumpy, so it takes a long time.
Once it’s all pounded into a mush they mold it into these big balls and let them sit.
In the end they have this big lump of sticky yellow goodness, which is typically eaten with a sauce dish.
It tastes how you’d imagine (like banana) but it’s sticky and quite difficult to eat. I learned this the hard way but you need to wet your fingers first (in the sauce) before you start grabbing at it. Otherwise you’re going to be gnawing at foutou glued to your hands like a tourist dummy.
This is quite hard to find at night, so go searching for it at lunchtime if it’s what you’re looking for. Definitely something you need to try for the full west African experience 😉
Placali is another staple, this one made from fermented cassava dough.
It’s cooked slowly with water and then set aside to cool. When served it’s going to look like a huge dumpling which you pick at with your hands, similar to the foutou.
It also tastes sour, like a sourdough bread, and is normally served with sauce dishes. I remember getting served this and thinking it would definitely not be enough, but even a small portion is so filling that I was struggling to finish it.
This is also something you can only find during lunchtime – search out some local food spots around midday and it will be easy to find.
“Sauces” are really popular in Cote d’Ivoire food and there are a lot of them.
Sauce kopè translates to “sauce okra”, which is a very gooey and spicy sauce. It’s usually eaten with placali like you see in the photo.
Common ingredients in the sauce are crab, escargot (snails) and fish or beef.
Eating this dish is labour intensive and messy; the placali is already a sticky challenge and the sauce is also a little difficult to handle. By the end of your first time eating it you should get the hang of it, but if you’re like me you might feel a bit goofy in the process, especially while dripping sauce everywhere with placali plastered all over your hands. Don’t worry, it’s all part of the fun.
How does it taste? Okra has a semi-neutral flavour to begin with, so it depends on what it gets cooked with. Seafood is popular, so if it’s crab or fish it will probably have a seafood chowder like taste, and it’s usually spicy too.
Mine had snails in it which you’ll come across a lot in Cote d’Ivoire cooking – they taste mostly like shellfish but a little firmer, nothing to be afraid of!
Overall sauce kopè wasn’t my favourite sauce but it wasn’t bad – definitely worth trying if you see it on the menu.
Sauce arachide is a spicy peanut based sauce, this one more often eaten with rice.
I think the usual main ingredient is chicken, but the one I had (in the photo) was made with fish which was also good. If you can imagine half a fish cooked in a big bowl of spicy satay sauce, that’s pretty close to what you’ll get. Pretty good!
When it comes to sauce dishes in the Ivory Coast, the menu changes daily so it just depends on what they’re cooking that day. The two above are the ones I tried but there are lots of others too. They’re not really available in the evenings, so check out the local eateries around lunchtime, that’s when you’ll find them!
Fish is common in Ivorian cuisine, and anything braisé in the Ivory Coast is a treat.
Put those together and you have Poisson braisé, which translates to “braised fish”, although I don’t think it’s actually “braised” as we understand the word in English.
First the fish is marinaded in some basic flavours (garlic, lemon, parsley, pepper etc) and then cooked slowly on a hot grill. Afterwards it’s topped with sauteed onions and tomatoes and served with a side of attiéké or alloco. You always get the whole fish too so it’s usually a huge meal.
Because Ivory Coast is on the coast (duh) the fish is almost always fresh. I don’t think I ever had a bad fish during my trip!
Poulet braisé translates to braised chicken and is cooked in much the same way as the poisson braisé – marinaded in spices and then thrown on the grill for a slow cook.
This is a really popular dish at night and you’ll smell the chickens grilling as you walk around Abidjan after dark.
One thing that stands out about the poulet braisé (and many other dishes in Cote d’Ivoire) is the chili sauce they add on the side. It’s literally the spiciest sauce I’ve ever tasted and I couldn’t even touch it. Those Ivorians seem to just eat it by the spoonful. Madness.
If you’re not a spicy food guy, be careful not to mistake it for an innocent tomato sauce – it definitely is not!
Other than that this tastes like your standard grilled chicken – I ended up eating it a lot as it was easy to find and cheap, usually around 2,500 CFA ($4 USD) for half a chicken.
Choukouya is the west African version of flame grilled meat. It’s the classic nighttime meal and you’ll find it getting cooked all over the city in the evenings.
As far as I understand it choukouya can refer to many different kinds of meat, so you can have chicken choukouya, beef choukouya, goat choukouya and so on.
Once it comes off the grill it’s chopped up, topped with onions and served with the usual spicy-as-hell sauce on the side. Most people eat it with fries or alloco (and lots of beers).
Poisson en papillote translates to “fish in foil”, which is exactly what it is.
When I ate this I’d just done a long day of surfing and I asked the barman what I should eat. He recommended the poisson en papillote avec riz (fish in foil and rice). I didn’t even know what that meant but it turned out to be awesome. I think I had it again the next day.
I’m not certain how they cook it, but I know they wrap the fish in foil with some kind of lemon marinade and maybe some tomatoes, then cook it until it’s saucy and delicious. Luuuurved it.
This is a very local dish, which consists of attiéké, topped with diced onions and tomatoes and several pieces of fried tuna. You can eat it with your hands – simply grab a piece of everything and pop it into your mouth. The tuna is very salty so you need to get a good chunk of attiéké and tomatoes to mellow it out. It’s a perfect combination if you get the mix right!
This is one of those classic “poor man meals”, so you’ll find it being sold streetside in many places, mostly in the mornings.
Why mornings? Because this a super popular Ivory Coast breakfast! Or at least how it was explained to me; you eat it for breakfast on a Sunday or a day you don’t need to do anything. It’s a very heavy meal so the idea is you can just overeat and then enjoy your food coma for the rest of the day.
Poulet piquet is chicken on a stake cooked over a wooded fire. You’ll notice it very quickly by the big sand/dirt pits they use for cooking outside the restaurants.
The funny thing about eating out at night in Abidjan is everywhere is so dimly lit, so often you can’t really see what you’re eating. Sometimes you see people holding their phones in one hand and eating with the other because it’s that dark! So, when I tried poulet piquet I didn’t really get a good look – I do know there were a couple of sauces on the plate, that were yum, but no idea what they were…or what they looked like.
It was noticeably less greasy than a regular grilled chicken though. That means you can have it with some greasy alloco (fried bananas) and not feel too bad! 🙂
This is pretty to easy to find, you’ll find it being served during the night in lots of food spots around town.
Kedjenou is a traditional Ivorian chicken stew.
It’s cooked in a sealed dish, sometimes some vegetables are added, then it’s left to slow cook in the meat’s own juices. At the end you’re left with a very flavoursome and saucy stewed chicken, best eaten with attiéké or rice. If you’ve been to Morocco, it might remind you of the tagine. Of course they add a few chilis too, so be ready for some heat.
This one is another popular lunch dish, but I saw it served at a few places at night too.
Banane braisé are plantains slow cooked over hot coals.
The end result is a hot banana which is browned on the outside but still very soft on the inside. This is a classic Ivorian snack and you’ll see it being sold roadside all throughout Abidjan.
There was a lady selling these just across the road from my apartment, 100 CFA (20 cents) for the small ones and 200 CFA (40 cents) for the big ones. Can’t find many cheaper and healthier snacks than that!
I was on the lookout for this for many weeks and didn’t find it until my last night in town. I was having ice cream with some friends very late (around midnight) when we saw a guy making pain brochettes across the street. Of course I had to go try one!
How it works is the guy will have a few beef (I think) skewers on the grill. He’ll slice a baguette in half and when the skewers are ready to chow he’ll clamp them inside the bread and pull the sticks out. Then he adds a whole bunch of stuff – mayonnaise, egg, some sauces and seasonings (I really have no idea what it was) and then it’s time to eat!
How’s it taste? It’s really just like a regular beef sandwich. Super cheap though. And tasty 🙂
However it was one of the “rougher” street foods I saw, so if you’ve got one of those sensitive stomachs try to choose your pain brochette place carefully. I’ve also got a guide that you might find useful!
I had a friend bring me a bottle of this one morning, insisting that I try it. I just thought it was yogurt but a few weeks later I found out it’s actually a traditional Ivorian drink.
It’s made by mixing yogurt with millet flour, and they must add a lot of sugar and/or honey because it’s very sweet. Tastes like an oat smoothie or maybe even one of those Asian sago desserts and goes down super easy. It’s sold everywhere in restaurants and supermarkets so you won’t have trouble finding it. Try it – it’s different!
And there’s your introduction to Ivorian food. Shout out to my friends Orphelie from Culturiche and Yasmine from Afrofoodie for taking me out to some of their favourite eats in Abidjan, if you want ideas on things to do in town be sure to check out their blogs 🙂
Looking for tours and activities at an affordable price? I use GetYourGuide! Always great deals and local perks.
For travel insurance, I always use World Nomads – get protected for just a few dollars a day!
Somewhere to stay? Booking.com gives you the biggest selection and the best rates.
I also have a beginner’s guide to Abidjan, so be sure to check that out!
Have you been to Cote d’Ivoire? What was your favourite food? Let me know in the comments 🙂
Heading to Bangkok!?
You’re in for a treat.
One of my all time favourite cities, it will be an honour to introduce you to this magical place!
I’ll take you through where to stay in Bangkok, all the best places to eat, where to party, how to get around, and a few insider tips, too.
By the time we’re done I’m sure you’ll agree – the Thai capital is one of the finest cities in the world.
Bangkok and I go way back. I have returned to this city over and over since my first visit back in 2013.
However, it does take a little while to get used to, and first timers are often intimidated by the place. The truth is, getting the most out of Bangkok is difficult if you’re unfamiliar with the city.
But with just a few pointers you can totally transform your experience. You’ll stay in a better neighbourhood, eat better food, save more money and just having a freaking awesome time.
In this guide I’m going to help you do that.
After visiting Bangkok for many years now, I’m confident I can give you all the first timer tips you’ll need to fall in love with Bangkok, just like I have.
5. Getting a sim card in Bangkok
The most amazing thing about Bangkok is, it’s a city of many colours.
You can have any kind of holiday you want in Bangkok.
If you want to party every single night and get drunk and go wild until the morning, this could be one of the best cities in the world.
But if you want to just spend the day eating delicious food and sightseeing and go to bed by 8pm, this could also be one of the best cities in the world.
If you want to shop all day and spend all your money on fancy clothes – well, this probably is the best city in the world.
And if you’re on a honeymoon and want a luxurious, relaxing holiday with beautiful sunsets…you get the point.
Where to stay in Bangkok really depends on what kind of holiday you want to have here. Obviously if you want a quiet honeymoon, you’ll be staying away from the parties on Khao San Road. If you want to shop, you’re likely staying near the malls in Siam.
Bangkok is hot so long walks are uncomfortable and traffic jams are common. If you stay in the wrong part of town, you’re going to be spending hours per day commuting, sweating and sitting in traffic. NOT ideal.
In fact, I’d say where you stay in Bangkok is the most important thing to consider for an enjoyable trip. Therefore this section is going to be extremely detailed and the key focus of this guide.
So, what’s the best place to stay in Bangkok? There’s no right answer.
It all depends on what you’ve come to do in this great city.
Below I’m going to break down six of the main areas of Bangkok so you can decide the best place to stay in Bangkok for you. Of course there are many more areas, but these six are the main ones and for a Bangkok first timer, I highly recommend staying in one of these.
What I’ll do is give you a quick intro to what each area is about, then share some places to stay that I can vouch for. I’ve stayed all over Bangkok, and while I’m a budget traveller at heart, I’ll give you options for every price range. Whether you’re looking to pinch pennies or splurge on a fancy honeymoon, I’ve got you covered.
<Here’s a map of Bangkok with the areas we’ll be talking about. As you can see both of Bangkok’s airports are quite a way out, but it’s easy enough to reach central Bangkok – the trains leave from right within the airport terminal and will only cost a few dollars. Super easy.
Above is a Bangkok neighborhood map marked with all the areas covered below, which I would consider the best places to stay in Bangkok for most visitors, especially first timers.
All are easy reachable once in Bangkok’s centre. Again, there is no one best place to stay in Bangkok. All have their different quirks and things to love and hate.
Let me take you through each of them:
This is my favourite area to stay in. Sukhumvit is a developed and trendy area of central Bangkok, packed with hotels, bars, restaurants, clubs, shops, malls and everything else you could want on your doorstep. While many tourists stay in and visit this area, it’s not exactly “touristy” in the traditional sense. There are many Thais that live and work in the area too, which gives it a local feel, despite the clear western influence.
As an added bonus, the Skytrain runs right through the middle of Sukhumvit, meaning if you want to go anywhere you can simply jump on the platform and get anywhere in just a few minutes. There’s no need for taxis in Sukhumvit!
The Sukhumvit skytrain line centres around the more tourist-oriented areas, such as Nana and Asok. Here you’ll find a lot of things like massage houses, Irish pubs, western restaurants, bars, street sellers and so on. It’s pretty hectic but fun too, maybe the best place to stay in Bangkok for one or two nights.
As you move further down the line towards Thong Lor, you start to get a more high-class Thai vibe, and recently even further down to Bang Na is now full of western comforts. Beyond that it starts to more local and you’ll hear less English and have more local shops, if that’s what you want. You can stay absolutely anywhere on the Sukhumvit line, but I’d probably stay somewhere between the Asok and Thong Lor stations for max comfort, but honestly with Bangkok’s rapid development, even way up to Ari is perfectly safe and modern for a tourist. That way you’re right in the centre of the action, and just a few stops from both worlds.
There are lots of options between Asok and Thong Lor; in my opinion, this might be the best place to stay in Bangkok for a first timer. Here are some recommendations:
Try the Piccolo Hostel. This quirky hostel is super clean, modern, and a one-minute walk to the BTS station. For less than fifteen bucks a night in low season, it’s a total bargain. You’ll find the best rates here.
I’d stay at the Adagio Bangkok. Will only run you around $40 a night and the rooms almost feel like those of a top Bangkok hotel. Bangkok hotel prices are already great but there are very few places in the world you can get this level of flash at this price! It’s also just a few steps away from the Phrom Phong BTS station – a big bonus. You’ll find the best rates here.
Sukhumvit is full of luxury, and the best part is, it’s not even that expensive. If you’re on a romantic holiday and looking to splurge, this is a great city to go all in. If you’re staying in Sukhumvit, I’d take the Sofitel Bangkok. It’s one of the best Bangkok hotels there is (that’s saying something) and has everything you’d expect in a lavish hotel – gym, pool, room service, a zillion floors, incredible furnishings. Will run you $150 a night and up, but it’s fit for royalty. Five minutes walk to the Nana BTS. You’ll find the best rates here.
Khao San Road is the backpacker mecca of Bangkok, and tailored for the young, university-aged party crowd. This is hands down the best place to stay in Bangkok for backpackers: Cheap drinks, cheap food, bars and loud music, and general all night craziness. It’s also arguably the best place to stay in Bangkok for singles, especially if you’re looking to meet someone. Lots of solo travellers frequent Khao San, so you’ll be right at home.
If that sounds like you, this is your spot.
There are many backpacker hostels both on and around Khao San Road, and in all honesty you could probably just show up and find something as long as you’re not right in the middle of peak season. However it’s always a good idea to book ahead.
Stay at the Social Capsule Hostel. This brings a Japanese capsule living flavour to Bangkok, and they do it so well! The hostel features a bar, a terrace, free Wifi and a lounge, and best of all, the beds are cheap! Just 300m from Khao San Rd means you’re never far from the action. Best rates here.
I’d go with Baan Kachitpan.
It’s about a ten minute walk from Khaosan Road (which might be a good thing) and the rooms are gorgeous and chic.
Only ~$20 per night! Absolute steal. Get the best rates here.
Riverside is a slightly more trendy and expensive area, away from the hustle bustle that Bangkok is often known for. It’s full of expensive hotels and pretty views. I don’t spend much time out here personally, but it’s definitely the best place to stay in Bangkok for couples looking for flash and romance. If you’re in Bangkok on your honeymoon, this is your place! The area is also known for its many temples and shrines and other tourist attractions.
Another cool part of staying by the Bangkok riverside is the boat rides! There are ferries going up and down the river all day – the easiest place to get them is from the Central Pier. Some of the upper end hotels will offer free rides to and from the Central Pier, so look out for that.
Tiny Taladnoi is an absolute bargain. Maybe bucks a night in low season and all the frills of a high-end hostel. About a ten-minute walk to public transport. Best rates here.
You can’t go wrong with Hansa Bangkok House.
The rooms are gorgeous and it’s on Rama VIII road, just a few minutes from the riverfront. Many popular attractions in the area are within walking distance. At $40 a night it’s a gem. Best rates here!
There is no better place than the riverfront to experience luxury accommodation in Bangkok. The area is overflowing with extravagance. I’m going to recommend the Riva Arun. Both the rooms and the views are going to blow you away here. At $350+ per night it’s not cheap, but if you’re in Bangkok to live large this won’t let you down. Best rates here.
Siam is Bangkok’s retail district and definitely the best place to stay in Bangkok for shopping fiends. Truthfully, even the biggest shopaholics can’t outshop Siam. Bangkok has some of the biggest and best malls in the world and many of them are clustered here on one strip – Siam Square, MBK, Centralworld, Siam Paragon, Siam Discovery and Siam Center. Get through those and you’ll still have street shopping and boutique malls to get through.
One thing I did notice about Siam is it feels a lot less “Thai” then other areas of Bangkok – meaning the malls are full of western brands, wealthy teenagers and foreigners. Things like Thai street food and regular locals are not seen as much. Nothing wrong with that of course, just something to take note of.
Diff Hostel is a great choice.
It’s a newly opened hostel, fun, quirky, social, and the beds are great. Ratchatewi Station is 100m away. Private rooms available, and ten to fifteen bucks a night for a dorm bed! You’ll find those rates here.
I’d go with Nine Design Place.
It’s a boutique guesthouse, very modern and stylish with a great location. Rooms are excellent, five minutes walk from public transport, around $50 per night. Best rates here.
Lots of high-end places to choose from, but I’d recommend the Siam Kempinski. Will probably run you about $300 per night, but the rooms are absolutely lavish and the location can’t be beat. Facilities are incredible too – with the gym and pool they have, you’re never going to leave! You’ll find the best rates here.
Silom is a much more vanilla area of Bangkok. Not so wild, not too touristy, just your regular city vibe. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, there’s still plenty of beautiful places and things to do around here! I’d say it’s one of the best neighborhoods to stay in Bangkok for a long term stay.
It’s actually considered the city’s central business district, so you’ll see lots of working Thais around in office clothing, locals going about their day, elderly exercising and strolling through the enormous Lumphini park. One thing that can be a downside here is the ridiculous traffic during rush hour, but if you’re using the Skytrain you’ll be fine!
Of course one thing you should note is the infamous Patpong area is here, which is notorious for sex tourism, ping pong shows, girly bars and late night shenanigans. Of course if that’s your thing you’re in the right place! Note there’s nothing dangerous about this area at all, it’s just somewhere to steer clear of if you don’t want that sort of thing in your face, which is not hard to do at all.
Silom is one of the best places to stay in Bangkok on a budget. If you’re strapped for cash, I’d stay at iSanook. It’s a funky, colourful, modern hostel in a great location. If you’re lucky you’ll get a room for less than eight or ten bucks a night. You should find those rates here.
Lots to choose from in Silom, but I’d suggest the Le Meridien.
Not too expensive, but still all the flash you’d expect from a five star hotel. Get the circular bed room – might cost you, but what’s a Bangkok holiday if you don’t treat yourself a little? Splash out – you won’t regret it 😉 You’ll get the best rates here.
Chinatown is a good budget area of Bangkok with a lot of history.
It’s not the prettiest place in Bangkok but is completely safe and full of interesting characters, chic bars, street food, rustic streets and just good old Bangkok ruggedness.
When Khao San Road started becoming infamous for its partying ways, Chinatown became somewhat of a backpacker alternative. There are a lot of cheap places to stay around here, and a lot of cheap food and shopping too. One could even argue it’s the best area to stay in Bangkok for food (yes, really).
It tends to attract the young traveller more interested in a quiet beer and a good plate of noodles than an all night rave at the club.
Tian Tian is a great choice. It’s about a 3-minute walk to public transport, and is a super chic and quiet hostel, beautifully decorated and cheap! Shouldn’t run you more than $7-8 per night. Get the best rate here.
I can highly recommend Pho Place. It’s just down the road from the train, has beautiful rooms, and should cost you around $40 per night. Super value for money. Best rates here.
There isn’t too much flash around Chinatown, at least not compared to the rest of Bangkok, but it doesn’t mean you can’t do things in style here. The Hotel Royal has everything you’d expect in a top level hotel (gym, lap pool, beautiful reception and rooms) and will be quite a bit cheaper than the rest of Bangkok’s top selections. Around $120 per night will get you a room here. Save that extra cash for all the ridiculous food you’re going to be eating! Find the best rate here.
If you’re only in Bangkok for a quick overnight you can still stay close to the centre, as getting to the airport is as easy as a quick BTS ride (at least from Suvarnabhumi). However, if you want to stay by the airport there are lots of good options out in those areas too.
When it comes to Bangkok airport hotels, I’d say the Amaranth Suvarnabhumi Premier is the one you’re looking for (if you’re flying from Suvarnabhumi airport). It’s very snazzy and they do free airport transfers 24 hours a day. If you’ve got a long flight the next day, this place will certainly recharge your batteries in style. Click here to get the best rate.
If you’re flying out from Don Mueang, stay at 12 The Residence. Usually the Don Mueang flights are shorter flights so you may not need something so luxurious to recharge. The rooms at 12 The Residence are very cosy and the rates are so low you might need to look twice. It’s also literally 1km from the airport, so you can even walk if you want to skimp on the 60 baht cab ride. You’ll get the best rates here.
Of all the great foodie cities I’ve been to, few (if any) come close to Bangkok. This is easily one of the best cities in the world to stuff your face.
Honestly, I probably don’t even need to recommend anything to you here, because as soon as you walk out your door you’re going to be running into delicious street food on every corner.
BUT, there are some places that are better than others. Let me introduce you to a few of the top dogs that you may not find on your own:
Victory Monument is one of Bangkok’s best street food spots for foreigners due to its central location and the large variety of food available there.
There isn’t exactly one main street here for food, rather, all the sois (side streets) that run off the roundabout will have a selection of food carts for you to try.
One thing I recommend trying are the famous boat noodles, of which there are several. These are small bowls of noodle soup, which are purposely given in small servings so you can eat a lot of them! Many people challenge themselves to stack their bowls ten or twenty high, which always leads to an afternoon of satisfied stomachs.
The best area to stay in Bangkok if you plan on eating here is anywhere in Sukhumvit – the BTS line runs right through it so you’ll be linked directly to Victory Monument in a single ride 😉
How to get there: Jump on the BTS and get off at the Victory Monument stop. You’ll recognise the big roundabout immediately – make your way around it and enjoy!
Rangnam is also around the Victory Monument area. This is a slightly trendier street but still has an awesome selection of street food vendors to feast away on.
My advice: Search for Kuang Seafood on Google maps, then keep walking down Rangnam until you reach it. You’ll find a delicious selection of Thai food on offer there from a few different places.
Most Rangnam vendors come out later in the day, so make sure you head there in the evening to ensure you get the full lineup!
Again, best area to stay in Bangkok for Rangnam is in the Sukhumvit area, anywhere above Asok. A short BTS ride and you’ll be there.
How to get there: Head to the Victory Monument BTS stop, head to Exit #4.
Chinatown is one of the BEST and also most overlooked places to eat in Bangkok. The food quality is always super high; I don’t think I’ve ever had a bad meal here in all my years of visiting.
One reason people pass on Chinatown is because it’s a little far out of the main areas and isn’t serviced by the BTS. However, a short Grab ride (like Uber) should get you there and if you’re a food lover it will certainly be worth it.
My first piece of advice is to head there in the evening. This is the time for eating and all the popular vendors should be firing their woks by then. My second piece of advice is go with an empty stomach and a lot of time! Chinatown is huge and every little alley has something new to try. Chinatown is safe during the evening hours, so don’t be afraid to turn into every small alley and side street in the search for deliciousness.
How to get there: In 2019 the MRT finally opened its own station in the heart of Chinatown. Take the MRT to Wat Mangkon station on the blue line.
Ratchawat and Sriyan are two separate markets that are very close together, and one that most tourists never hear about.
One reason is it’s a little difficult to get there (you’ll need to Grab or taxi) and when you arrive you’ll likely be surrounded by hungry locals without many foreigners in sight.
The road is named Nakhon Chaisri – walk down and you should come across the Ratchawat market first. This is a small and traditional food market, very different to the tourist-friendly markets you might find around the rest of the city. This particular market is well known for Thai desserts, but you should find no shortage of delicious Thai dishes as well. The famous Radna noodles are located here, which will almost always have a long queue waiting. If you’ve got time, try it, it’s amazing.
Just a few minutes walk from here is the Sriyan market. This is another very traditional market that might not look all that interesting on first glance, but take the time to explore and you’ll find many interesting Thai dishes here. It’s a good idea to go with a local as English isn’t widely spoken here, but pointing and Google translate will suffice if you’re adventurous enough. Again, these places aren’t frequented by tourists, so be ready for a very local experience!
How to get there: Head to the Victory Monument BTS stop, then take a taxi (around 6-8 minutes) to Nakhon Chaisri.
This is a very local area, which is great just to get a feel of Bangkok outside the commercial districts. And of course, there’s food everywhere.
Soi 5 is where all the action is at, where many restaurants and food carts come alive in the evenings to feed people on their way home from work. I’ve had some of the best noodle soups in my life around here, mostly from unassuming places that look like nothing more than a hole in the wall.
PA’Or is also now Youtube famous – of course I made it a point to visit and it was every bit as delicious as they said it would be!
Come in the late afternoon/evening and give yourself some time to wander, it’s an interesting spot. Best place to stay in Bangkok for this spot would be around Ratchatewi Station. P18 hotel is a great choice!
How to get there: First you need to get to the Ratchathewi BTS station. Go to Exit #3, you should be on Petchaburi Road. Head left on Petchaburi until you reach Soi 5.
The Wang Lang market is situated right on the Chao Phraya River and even has its own pier (the Wang Lang Pier). That’s good news for you because if you’re in Bangkok for the food, this is one of the few must visit places in the city.
Wang Lang is huge – you can spend a whole day eating here. Definitely come with an empty stomach and empty schedule, with lots of pocket change to try all the Thai snacks you’re going to pass by.
This place does get quite a few foreigners but the crowds can also make it quite intimidating. Don’t be put off – get in there and try everything! There’s almost nothing you can’t find at Wang Lang – if you’ve seen it on a Thai food menu you’ll likely find it here somewhere.
How to get there: Go to the Saphan Taksin BTS stop. From there, you need to take the public boat from Saphan Taksin (yes, boat!). This will take you straight to Wang Lang pier.
This is an honorary mention, as it used to be one of my favourite food spots in Bangkok. It has since been closed down due to a real estate development, but in its heyday it was one of the most accessible street food options for newcomers to the city.
There are still a dozen stalls here, located right at the foot of the soi, and the quality of food is still very good. It’s probably not somewhere you’d come just for the food, but if you’re in the area it’s a great place to have a meal.
How to get there: Head to the Thong Lor BTS stop. Head to Exit #4, it will be on the street directly underneath.
Some of you may be concerned about food safety when eating street food in a place like Southeast Asia. Bangkok is actually one of the safer places in the region to eat street food, and while it’s not perfect getting belly problems here is far less likely than places like India or China.
I personally have never had an upset stomach in Bangkok and I’ve eaten in ever corner of the city. As long as you take the right precautions you should have no problems. If it’s your first time in the region, I highly recommend reading my guide on preventing food poisoning and traveller’s diarrhea.
There are endless guides online for things to do in Bangkok, so in this section I’ll try to throw in some offbeat places you might not hear about elsewhere. Even a year living in Bangkok wouldn’t be enough to see all the interesting things, so here are a few that the common tourist would be most likely to appreciate:
You could think of this as Bangkok’s version of Central Park – a haven of greenery in the centre of Bangkok’s concrete jungle. Pollution is a big problem in Bangkok, so Lumphini offers residents a place to enjoy a little nature and get away from the bustle and traffic.
This is actually a favourite place for runners, with paths winding all through the park. It’s also an amazing place to jog (or stroll) as you never know what you might come across – some seniors doing tai chi, kids playing basketball, families having a picnic, people meditating under the trees, even a few street food stalls near the entrances.
The place is huge, so don’t try and drop breadcrumbs. Just go enjoy yourself, and try navigate your way out with the signs when it’s time to leave.
How to get there: Grab the BTS to Saladaeng or the MRT to Lumphini, both will drop you right beside the park.
Channel 7 Stadium was once a traveller’s secret in Bangkok, but the secret came out quickly once Instagram arrived on the scene. Now it’s packed to the rooftops every Sunday.
Still, it’s an awesome place to catch some Muay Thai fights, which is an absolute must when in Bangkok!
Muay Thai is one of Thailand’s national sports, which is a vicious style of kickboxing, known for its relentless kicks and elbows. Muay Thai used to be a sport for poorer members of society, but has since grown into a global phenomenon with a lot of money to be made.
The Channel 7 Stadium is popular because entrance is free. The fights are televised so the aim is to get a large and enthusiastic crowd and ensure the stands are full. A few years ago it was rare to see tourists, but nowadays they make up a large percentage of the crowd. However, the fights are still of high calibre and many up-and-coming stars get scheduled to fight here. To get, come early – fights start at 2:30pm, so get there at 12 for the best seats. Alternatively you can also come late, around 3:15pm – by that time 3 fights will have finished and many tourists will have left after getting their Instagram photos.
How to get there: Head to the Chatuchak station on the MRT, or the Mo Chit station on the BTS, then catch a taxi to the stadium. Alternatively you can walk (15ish minutes).
Rod Fai Market is insane and you’ll surely be blown away by how diverse and huge this place is. I actually chanced upon it on the way home with a friend and we spent hours walking around laughing at all the cool things they had.
Technically Rod Fai is three markets.
The Warehouse Area is for all kinds of hard-to-find household items and accessories – think old appliances, second hand clothes, collectible toys – things like that.
The Antique Area is a huge abandoned building full of legitimate antiques such as old model motorcycles, furniture, antiques and other vintage items. There’s a lot of rare and valuable stuff and a collector (with a healthy bank account) would be in heaven here.
Lastly you have the Market Area, which is the main shopping zone and selling everything you can think of. Haggling is the norm, so come prepared to drive a hard bargain. There are literally thousands of stalls here, so don’t pull the trigger too quickly – there’s lots to see!
How to get there: These days the easiest way is the new Yellow Line monorail – ride to Suan Luang Rama IX (YL15) and take Exit 1, which drops you right at the market entrance. If you’d rather taxi, just tell the driver “Seacon Square” – the market sits right behind it. Open from 5pm Thursday to Sunday.
This is a store on the outskirts of Bangkok, which I’m only half recommending because it really depends on what kind of person you are. Some people will love this place and some people will wonder why on earth you’d spend that taxi money to go look at something so ridiculous.
Explained simply, Papaya Vintage is an antique store. But it’s not your usual antique store – it’s huge, and filled with many odd things that most people wouldn’t even take for free. Think broken appliances, old mannequins, and pieces of literal junk.
However, just walking through the place is an experience in itself, and you’re guaranteed to find things here you won’t find in any other shop on earth.
If you’re a collectible lover or take a liking to weird and wonderful things, make the trip out there and see what you think. Otherwise, head to Rod Fai, it’s likely to be a more enjoyable experience.
How to get there: Take the MRT to Lat Phrao, then get a taxi to Lat Phrao Soi 55. You’ll find Papaya Vintage on the intersection of Soi 55 and 55/2.
There are over a dozen floating markets in and around Bangkok, but in my opinion this is the best one.
Taling Chan is 15km outside of Bangkok and has everything you’d expect in a floating market – wooden boats, shops, music, and lots of seafood! It’s not an extravagant market, but that also means it’s not crowded, expensive and glamorized like many of the more popular markets in Bangkok now are.
Spend a morning here eating som tam, some fresh seafood and taking a short boat ride around the khlongs (canals).
Just a short taxi ride from Taling Chan is Khlong Lat Mayom. This is smaller than Taling Chan but is still a very fun and charming market to wander through. Not much of the market is “floating”, it’s more of a riverside market with just a few boats, however it’s still beautifully laid out and worth visiting if you’re already in the area. One side is dedicated to produce like fruits and vegetables, the other is dedicated to cooked food where you can try all kind of Thai snacks and dishes. There are also souvenirs, clothing and other trinkets to ensure there’s something for everyone.
How to get there: Get the BTS to Wongwian Yai Station, then catch a taxi to either market. They’re very close to each other.
Rama IX Park is the largest public park in Bangkok, and is a better option than Lumphini for those who really want to escape the noise of the city.
It’s located 15km from Bangkok’s centre and costs 10 baht to enter. Inside is 200 acres of tranquility which is perfect for spending a lazy Sunday or a quiet afternoon with your significant other. There are various gardens to enjoy, usually themed after different countries, plus a giant lake to sit by and relax the day away.
Of course it has all the other things you’d expect, such as exercise areas, running paths, decorative buildings, and they also host events there from time to time.
How to get there: Catch the BTS to Udom Suk, then taxi to the park (around 15 minutes).
The BTS is the fastest way to skip Bangkok’s traffic. It runs above the streets on two lines – the Sukhumvit Line and the Silom Line – which cross at Siam, the central interchange and shopping heart of the city. Between them they cover most of what a visitor wants – Sukhumvit, Silom, Siam, Chatuchak and out to Thong Lor.
Single journeys run roughly 20–65 baht depending on distance as of 2026.
If you’re planning to ride it a lot one day, they have a day pass that’s 150 baht of unlimited travel. If you’re staying longer, definitely grab a Rabbit Card (200 baht – 100 baht card fee plus 100 baht of credit) and top it up as you go, so you tap straight through instead of queuing for a ticket each time.
More information can be found on the BTS website.
The MRT is Bangkok’s underground metro, and it fills the gaps the BTS misses – Chinatown (Wat Mangkon), the Old Town fringe, Lumphini Park, the Queen Sirikit convention centre – interchanging with the BTS at Asok/Sukhumvit, Sala Daeng/Silom and Chatuchak.
Fares run roughly 20–45 baht by distance. Buy the black plastic tokens for single trips (tap to enter, drop it in the slot to exit), or use a stored-value card if you’re around a while.
One 2026 heads-up: the MRT is moving to a new integrated “Mangmoom” card, but it’s Thai-ID-only for now – so as a visitor, just use tokens. They’re simple and there’s no reason to bother with a card for a short trip.
More information on the MRT can be found on their website.
A quick word on the “20-baht flat fare”
You may have read that Bangkok capped all electric-train fares at 20 baht. It’s real – it launched in September 2025 and covers the BTS, MRT and Airport Rail Link. The catch is, it’s not for tourists. You have to register through a government app with a Thai national ID, so tourists aren’t eligible. As a foreign visitor you’ll pay the normal distance-based fares above.
If you’re landing at Suvarnabhumi (BKK), the Airport Rail Link is the cheapest way into town – roughly 15–45 baht depending on distance, about 30 minutes to Phaya Thai or Makkasan, where you connect to the BTS and MRT. It beats crawling down the airport expressway in a cab. (Note: Don Mueang, the budget-airline airport, isn’t on the rail link – from there a Grab or the airport bus is your move).
Grab operates in Bangkok and is excellent.
The fares are very cheap, rarely more than $10. It’s much safer and cheaper than using taxis, especially at night, as taxis in Bangkok are notorious for trying to inflate fares on tourists. For example, they may ask for 100 baht for a ride that should only be 40 or 50, saying that it’s the “nighttime fare” or something similar.
Grab removes all these issues and gives you a safe and cheap way to get to places the BTS can’t take you. In fact, if you’re not on a really tight budget, there’s nothing wrong with using Grab to go everywhere – it won’t be as cheap as the BTS, but it will save you a lot of walking in the hot sun, and allow you the convenience of having all your transport go to your credit card.
Local Bangkok taxis are pink and yellow cars that are abundant everywhere. You shouldn’t be waiting more than a couple of minutes for one to drive by. They are usually clean and well maintained.
Taxis in Bangkok are usually fine to take, and I’ve never heard any horror stories like robbings or kidnappings.
However, more common are stories of drivers running up the fare by taking the “scenic route”, or like I mentioned before, trying to hustle a higher price and avoiding using the meter.
Don’t be afraid to take taxis – they are definitely convenient and inexpensive and 95% of them are good and honest drivers. Just have your wits about you.
Tuk-tuks are a fun once-per-trip novelty, but you’ll negotiate and usually pay more than a taxi, so ride one for the experience, not for actually getting around day-to-day.
If you’re game you can also use the motorbike taxis – they’re wearing orange vests and are parked at the mouth of most sois. These guys are hustlers though so make sure you agree the price first (usually 20–60 baht) and hold on tight, they whip through traffic.
These are awesome! I’ll be honest – they’re a bit daunting as a tourist, and the only reason I got taken on one was because a local took me. Wasn’t that easy to find either. BUT – you are definitely welcome as a tourist, just make sure you have the cash ready and know where you’re going. What you’re looking for are the Chao Phraya Express boats – they are cheap, breezy and often faster than the roads for reaching the Riverside, the Grand Palace, Wat Arun and the Old Town because you completely dodge the traffic.
Local commuter boats (identified by coloured flags) cost around 15 – 20 baht a hop.
There is also the tourist boat (blue flag) which is more accessible four tourist dummies like us, it costs more but runs a hop-on-hop-off day pass if you’re temple-hopping. The little cross-river ferries are just a few baht.
Ride the BTS to Saphan Taksin – the pier interchange – hop on a boat, and you can reach the Old Town without touching a road.
The bus system in Bangkok is a little confusing for foreigners, and it helps to have a local advise you on which bus to take and where to get off.
Bus drivers and operators in Bangkok will most likely not speak English so you’ll need to have your destination saved on your phone or written on a piece of paper. It’s also a good idea to follow where you are on Google maps so you don’t get completely lost.
Grab and the subway usually can get you anywhere you need to go in Bangkok, so there’s not many reasons to use the bus unless you’re on an extremely tight budget or just want to do it for the experience.
Walking around Bangkok is an experience for the senses, especially early in the morning as the city wakes up, and late at night when the madness starts. Everywhere you go will be a mix of car fumes, delicious food sizzling, beeping horns, chattering crowds – this is a Southeast Asian metropolis that never sleeps!
The one downside is the heavy humidity, which will have you sweating within minutes of stepping out your door. My advice? Bring lots of light clothing and a good pair of walking shoes and just embrace it! There’s nothing wrong with a good healthy sweat out, especially while feasting on delicious spicy Thai food and staying hydrated on mango shakes and fresh coconuts.
Definitely get a sim card when you land in Bangkok. You can usually get one right inside the arrivals section at the airport, and shouldn’t cost you more than $10 to get connected with internet for your trip.
I usually get the AIS traveller sim, which is a good option for up to a month. You can always just extend it later through the app or at a convenience store or AIS store if you need to. People that work in these phone stores usually speak at least elementary English, so it’s not difficult to get everything sorted.
Bangkok is a very tech-savvy city, so staying connected is very handy – think using Grab, Google maps and so on.
Bangkok is a fantastic place to enjoy some nightlife – some might argue it’s the best in the world. I won’t go that far, but I’m sure any party fiend will not be disappointed here.
As I mentioned earlier, this is the infamous kilometre-long backpacker street where you’ll find nothing but street food stalls and bars lined up one after the other. Young travellers from all over the world come here every night, many also choose to stay on the street itself.
The nightlife style here is dominated by the “cheap drinks in plastic cups” type vibe so if you’re a backpacker or a group of young’uns on a partying trip this is going to be your ground zero.
A good way to start the night is to pick up some cheap cocktails at the drinks carts (they’re everywhere), then migrate into the bars blaring nineties pop music, and finally finish the night in the street’s most popular nightclub, aptly named THE CLUB (get in early to avoid the cover charge).
How to get there: People like to catch the boat from Sathorn pier (get the BTS to Saphan Taksin) to Phra Arthit pier, although it’s only a little more expensive and much faster to catch an Grab. Grab or taxi is your best option at night.
Commonly known as RCA, this is probably Bangkok’s most established spot for ‘pure’ nightlife. I’m talking international DJs, concerts, huge clubs with bottle service and light shows, and many special events.
The first time I came here, I felt so out of place as everyone was dressed in their finest and the crowd was very local. It’s probably not the best place for a Bangkok first timer (especially if you can’t speak Thai) but if you’re game then I say go for it!
The two main clubs here are Route 66 and Slim and both are high end clubs that attract young, wealthy Thais and expats. Don’t come here expecting cheap drinks and shenanigans, most people come here to sit and enjoy bottle service and be seen, but with the right crew it can be an awesome experience.
How to get there: RCA is quite far out of the centre, so taxi or Grab is the way to go. It also kicks off very late – if you arrive before midnight it will be quiet.
This might be one of my favourite nightlife streets in Bangkok as no matter what your mood, you’ll find something to suit your night.
This street is right in the heart of Sukhumvit and busy every night of the week. Wind down with the latest football game at the Australian Bar or go for a full-on night of raving at Levels or Sugar (they’re 3 minutes walk from each other).
There’s also a nice collection of restaurants and street food along the street, so if you ever get hungry some grub is never far away.
How to get there: Soi 11 is right on the doorstep of the Nana BTS station.
Silom is probably the most diverse nightlife area in Bangkok – its venues range from gay bars to strip clubs to go-go bars to high end clubs, plus many innocent bars for those just wanting to have a beer and soak in the atmosphere.
Start with a few drinks at O’Reilly’s the Irish pub, which never fails to bring in its fair share of interesting characters. I’ve spent many nights of laughs in here, usually in the early hours of the evening before it gets a little too wild.
From there you’re spoiled for choice – DJ Station is ground zero for the gay community, the Sky Bar is the bucket list item for knocking down beers 63 storeys high, Patpong is the forbidden paradise for those dreaming of pretty young Thai girls, and Maggie Choos provides a place to spend all your money on snooty but delicious cocktails.
For the grand finale, head to Twilo to mix with the young and beautiful and dance the night away.
How to get there: Get the BTS to Sala Daeng station. O Reilly’s will be right underneath it.
Sukhumvit is also home to two of the most famous red light districts in the world:
Soi Cowboy is a short street lined with countless go-go bars and strip clubs, where young Thai girls sit outside in skimpy outfits trying to lure customers in for drinks and maybe more. You’ll notice the street instantly by the crowd of tourists, the music and a flood of neon lights, which makes this look like some kind of mini Vegas in the heart of Bangkok.
If you’d like to just see what all the hype is about, go right ahead – it’s an extremely safe and protected street and very popular with foreign visitors. It’s totally fine, even for the ladies, to go in for a drink and nothing more!
Just a short taxi ride away is Nana Plaza, which is set up more like a go-go bar shopping mall (yes, Bangkok just keeps getting stranger!). Other than the location, it’s not much different than Soi Cowboy – lots of pretty women, lots of neon lights and lots of shenanigans!
How to get there: Get the BTS to Asok station, look for the Terminal 21 mall. Look for Soi 23, Soi Cowboy is the next street over. As for Nana Plaza, head to the Nana BTS station, it’s right beside it.
Despite the wild reputation, Bangkok is a safe city.
Unprovoked crime is rare. If you’re polite and treat people with basic respect, you should have no problems at all.
Always take official taxis or Grabs. Dress modestly and keep to the populated areas at night.
If you’re a male, you’ll likely get propositioned by females if wandering around late at night, especially around Soi Cowboy, Nana, Patpong and Sukhumvit Soi 11. Always follow your gut instinct and treat every interaction with caution, especially if you’ve been drinking.
Keep a copy of your passport and visa stamp on your phone, as police can sometimes ask for it.
Most of all, just use your common sense! Bangkok is very developed and foreigner-friendly. Don’t do anything silly and you’re sure to have a great time.
Any questions? Leave them in the comments! 🙂
B
Photo credit: volvob12b@Flickr
What a year!
2018 is behind us, but as I always I need to take that final look back before I say goodbye.
As most of you already know, I had a mixed 2018. Lots of ups and downs, but nothing that I didn’t learn from or appreciate in some way. It was probably my “worst” year in recent years, but that doesn’t mean it was a bad year!
Let’s take a look:
I spent most of the first half of 2018 focusing on my health.
I’m not 21 anymore, so I’m at the age where little health problems keep popping up and I need to stay on top of them. This involves a lot of learning and experimenting with my body and finding out what heals and what doesn’t.
I actually saw a specialist early in the year and she prescribed me a long term pain medication. I generally don’t like taking medication, so I asked how long I needed it and she said “6 months to indefinite”. Obviously I said F*CK THAT and started researching an alternative.
Luckily I was already on a shakeup of my diet. I’d done a 10 day juice fast, and liked the feeling so much I had already gone 90% plant based after that.
Since most pain is just inflammation I continued to stay off all inflammatory foods (dairy, meat, processed food, sugar etc) and lived on vegetables, smoothies, nuts, seeds and lots of fruits.
I was on my sober year too so all alcohol was out.
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I also did a seven day water fast a few months later which gave my system another good cleanse.
Outside of diet I was doing lots of structural work on my body that I’d learned from my shoulder injury (yoga turns out to be pretty amazing just for overall blood flow and health). And exercise wasn’t a problem as I was training 4-5 days a week at my favourite gym Auckland MMA.
By the time I left for my first trip in May, all my pain problems had somehow disappeared and I was in perfect shape, no meds at all.
I did start eating more meat once my travels started, but I made an effort to stay diet conscious during the whole year and everything still feels good.
I also managed to complete the sober year in October so that was a nice accomplishment to add to my list. Health is a blessing but it’s a blessing you need to work for!
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I became a bit disenchanted with blogging in 2017, so 2018 was just about enjoying it again. I know some bloggers literally rely on blog money to eat but luckily I’m not one of them.
I wanted to write stories again and wrote a few during the year: Memories of Malaga, A Day in Harare and Lost and Found In the Netherlands.
I also wrote some musings during the year, a few that I published were The Secret To Solving All Your Money Problems, Will I Ever Stop Travelling? and All My Superheroes Are White.
Early in the year I also made my second movie, this one about my time in Namibia. While I was making it I swore I would never make a movie again because they just take so long, but when I watch it now I love that I have a souvenir of that trip. Maybe I’ll make another one when the time is right.
My blogging hit a speed bump after my arrest in Tanzania in July My lawyers told me to basically stay off the internet until I was released, which took almost two months (I’ll get to that below), so I was on hiatus until I sorted all that out.
However once I got back on the road I managed to start writing again, such as my Belgium waffle crusade and my thrift shop mission in Amsterdam, plus a bunch of other stuff (my full archives are here).
During the first half of the year I also finished the first draft of my book! To be honest I hate most of it so I’ll probably just be rewriting it all, but it was a milestone nonetheless. They say being a perfectionist and a writer are two of the most incompatible things; the irony is all writers are perfectionists which is probably why they’re all broke. Anyway, for the fourth year in a row, I’m working on it…
Luckily most of my blog is set up for passive income rather than sponsored work or freelance work, so even though my working ability was up and down during the year things still ticked along nicely. It’s a bit early to tell but I think income was flat with 2017.
The 2018 tax year was actually the first year the blog covered all my travel, so that was a nice milestone.
The niche site I built last year is the coolest little thing that brings in pocket money every month. The smart thing to do now would actually be to sell it as niche sites have high asking prices these days (about 20x-30x monthly earnings). However I think I’m just going to hold on to it while I continue to build more. I’ve been working on a couple of new ones, which has been fun.
I also spent a large amount of time studying Bitcoin and cryptocurrency this year.
It started when I read the book Digital Gold (highly recommended). Everyone was talking about Bitcoin, so I figured I should learn what the big deal was. A fascinating book and almost read like a Hollywood thriller. I wasn’t aware of how complex and turbulent the beginnings of Bitcoin were, which in reality was just a “nerd experiment” that took off.
I then read a more educational book called The Internet Of Money which validated a lot of my thoughts and ideas on the space.
I summarised those thoughts in my blog post This Is Why Bitcoin Is Going To Win.
The final book I read on the subject was Cryptoassets, although I didn’t learn much new from it.
While the market tanked during 2018 it was actually the best year on record in terms of development. I’m really looking forward to what lies ahead in that space in 2019.
Overall, finances weren’t really on my mind a lot during 2018. As most of you know I make a big effort to stay frugal, plus I’m single and childless so it’s often not an issue for me. As long as I’m earning enough to eat I’m happy!
A few years ago I was about learning every new thing under the sun. It’s a bit different these days as I feel like I always have something to do, so finding new hobbies isn’t really necessary anymore.
I love martial arts and I train whenever and wherever I get the chance. I’ve trained at so many different gyms around the world now, and it’s cool that it’s so universal and the community is always humble and welcoming. The thing about fighting is there is always someone that’s better than you, so you rarely meet very arrogant or douchey people. Those types of guys get humbled quickly, so the learning environment is always great.
My home gym is Auckland MMA and I spent about five months there this year. I love the challenge, it’s never ending.
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Another thing I love (but am so terrible at) is surfing but I’m determined to get good! I’m so grateful my Mum forced me to take swimming lessons for many years as a kid, because it would be impossible to surf otherwise. I’ve had some hairy situations in the surf but as a strong swimmer I’ve always been okay. I’ve also had some awesome coaching from the guys at Rapu so that has literally saved my life a few times.
I didn’t do much surfing this year, but did get a week in while in the Ivory Coast. It mostly just reminded me how bad I was, but I’m getting closer to being not-shit, I can feel it!
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Outside of sports one of my hobbies is language learning and I leaped several levels in my Swahili this year, to the point that a lot of people thought I was fluent (I’m definitely not). That was cool and coloured my experience in Tanzania very differently as I could interact with literally everyone.
I also saw a small improvement in my French in the Ivory Coast. I actually studied French in France a few years ago, but it wasn’t very fruitful. When I got to the Ivory Coast I set myself a goal to self study every day, which started well, but after a couple of weeks I slacked off completely. I seem to do that with a lot of things, I don’t really know why. Maybe I’m just not that disciplined.
I did do a lot of reading though! I think I did around 14 books in 2018. One up on the year before. Still improving 🙂 I haven’t been doing book listings like I used to, but I do have a full list of everything I read on my Books page.
The last thing I’ve been spending my free time on is writing music. It’s cool having something creative to do where you don’t have to try and be “good” and you can just make whatever. Plus you can do it anywhere! That’s been a lot of fun.
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My travels for the year started in May with a trip to Tanzania to visit my sister.
Everything was great for the first month, I even had a non-profit project in the works that was going to be pretty amazing.
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Then my grandfather passed away, so I flew to Australia for the funeral. Luckily travel insurance covered it (always get it!) but I still had to do about 70 hours of travelling in a matter of days to get there and back.
On the flight back to Tanzania I actually had a really bad flu/virus so I had to do a 30+ hour flight while sick – definitely the worst flight I’ve ever had to take!
The second month in Tanzania is where things got interesting.
I got randomly picked up by immigration at an internet cafe. Things escalated very quickly that day and they raided my house and all my belongings, then confiscated my phone, laptop and camera and told me I was under arrest. I got taken into the immigration holding room and when I asked what I was under arrest for he said “I’ll tell you tomorrow”. We basically found ourselves in a stalemate for the next 8 hours when I refused to sign any of their forms. Instead I got my embassy and some lawyers involved and it turned into a six week “investigation” where they tried to charge me with all kinds of bogus things.
This was definitely one of the toughest travel experiences for me, but it also showed me a lot of things. Almost everyone I talked to (it felt like the entire town knew about it) commented how well I was dealing with it, and that most people would be “losing it”. I had a lot of time to sit around and think, and I realised that all the years of travel up until then had prepared for me for this moment. I had learned to stay calm and make the right “plays” in those situations, and while I didn’t make the right plays every time I certainly dealt with it better than I would have ten years ago. Not only that, these things are not uncommon in travel. In fact I’ve heard so many stories like this from other travellers that when it happened to me, I just figured it was finally my turn to go through it.
After being held in the country for six weeks my passport was finally released. My embassy advised me to leave the country immediately (as if I was planning on staying!) so I headed to Kenya to recollect after the whole ordeal.
Kenya was great. I headed to Mombasa and spent a week relaxing by the coast, eating lots of good food and just enjoying my freedom again. Then I caught up with a few friends in Nairobi before finally heading to Europe. Kenya has always been good to me and I hope it continues to be!
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I went to Europe to meet my parents, who I needed to see after the whole Tanzania mess. My parents were travelling around the UK and Ireland so I joined them on their month long road trip.
Halfway through that trip was the second big incident of the year – we got rammed off the motorway by a freight truck. It was a pretty violent accident and we were spinning out for what felt like ages before finally smashing into the barrier.
Miraculously we were all fine except for a small burn on my Mum’s arm, although the rental car was totalled (another reason to always have insurance!).
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Obviously that was a shitty day, but the thing I remember most was that nobody on the motorway stopped to help! People just slowed down and watched us crash (to protect their precious cars from a scratch, obviously), then just carried on driving. Even in New Zealand people usually stop to check after an accident like that, so that left a sizable dent in my impression of the English. Lucky we were all okay, because with any serious injuries someone stopping to call an ambulance can be the difference between life and death. One guy did eventually stop much later though and helped us call the police, which was lucky since we all had no idea what to do.
Overall the UK trip was pretty good though. I didn’t write about it since it was mostly just sightseeing, but I thought Scotland was very intriguing and would like to go back there someday.
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After my parents returned home, I found myself in Europe without much of a plan.
First I went to Mallorca to catch up with my homegirl Fernanda who you might remember from When In Berlin. We spent a week driving around the island and eating junk food.
I personally wasn’t that impressed with Mallorca (the Germans talk about it like it’s an island off the coast of heaven), but I can see why people like it.
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After that I flew to Amsterdam and thought it was a very impressive city. It’s probably one of the few cities I’ve been to that can justify the high price tag. It’s super organised and developed and feels like they’re ten years ahead of everyone else!
From Amsterdam I headed south to visit a friend in the city of Breda. It’s always nice to meet old friends from the road, one of the joys of travelling.
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From Breda, I headed to west to Zeeland, the namesake of my home country. I loved Zeeland and am really glad I made the effort to visit. It was exactly the place I needed at that time.
I wrote about all those places in this blog post here.
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The next stop was Belgium.
I caught a bus from Zeeland to Bruges, and to be honest there isn’t much to see in Bruges if you’re not interested in buildings and churches. That gave birth to the Bruges waffle tour which you can read all about here!
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After Bruges I visited a friend in Ghent for a day, and then headed onto Brussels. I can’t say I did much in Brussels either – mostly just walked around looking for a place to cut my hair. It’s quite a messy city, not what I expected.
The last stop in Europe was Luxembourg. I caught the early morning bus and arrived around lunchtime to a completely dead city! I’m not sure where all the money in Luxembourg comes from because it was an absolute ghost town. It’s beautiful though.
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The real reason I went to Luxembourg though was to catch a flight.
I had found a cheap(ish) flight to the Ivory Coast, and figured this was as a good a time as any. I’ve wanted to go to west Africa for so long, especially the francophone countries, so with a few months left in the year I finally made it happen.
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Abidjan was not the city I was expecting. It’s a lot more French than I thought it would be, and everything is far more expensive. It was once called the Paris of Africa, and while it doesn’t look like Paris it does have prices like it.
One of the main goals of heading to Ivory Coast was to surf, so after a week in Abidjan I finally managed to find a ride out to the beach. I spent about 9 days living right on the sand and surfing every day, eating fresh fruits and living in paradise. It wasn’t cheap but it was worth every second! I would’ve stayed a lot longer if it weren’t for a stupid injury I got.
Shout out to the guys at The West Factory – the dudes there answered a lot of my questions and helped make the whole adventure happen. When I finally settle somewhere I’ll definitely be getting a board from them 🙂
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After I hurt my foot it was back to Abidjan, basically to catch up on all the work I’d missed during the year. I didn’t love Abidjan at first but it really started to grow on me after I learned a little more French and met a few more people (most African cities are like that). I still think about Abidjan a lot actually, it left an impression on me. Maybe I’ll go back some day. There isn’t much information on it online, so I wrote a huge beginner’s guide for anyone heading that way.
Finally as December closed out, I got on a flight back home to spend Christmas with my family. Always the best way to end the year 🙂
On a sidenote, I had three of my longest journeys happen this year:
I did Tanzania to Australia and back, which was around 70 hours of flying in 5 days.
Then I had to do Mombasa to York, which was 3 trains and 2 flights (44 hours).
Lastly I did Abidjan to Sydney, which was 38 hours.
As you can see my love for travel was certainly tested this year. Couldn’t break us though, we’re together for life 😀
The year is still open!
On the 2nd day of January I flew to Penang, so the travel schedule has already kicked off! I’ll be back in New Zealand in February to speak at a conference, but as for the rest of the year I’m not sure.
I have ideas, maybe central Asia, there’s also a festival in the States I’m interested in going to. Africa again? Yeah, probably.
Of course wherever I end up going I’ll be sharing it all with you. Feel free to send me ideas 😀
Have an awesome 2019!
B
West Africa is a place that’s been on my list for so many years. I’ve set foot on the north, the east and the south of the continent, but the west has always escaped me until now.
When my schedule and a cheap flight lined up this year, I had to go. I booked a flight from the European winter and headed down to Abidjan, where I spent nearly two months enjoying the bustling capital.
I can’t say it’s my favourite city, but it’s definitely unique and a place any traveller should experience. The francophone side of Africa is a planet of its own.
First thing – Abidjan is not a city for Africa beginners.
If you’re on a tour or an arranged trip you’ll be fine (although those aren’t common here) but as an indie traveller it’s challenging, particularly if you don’t speak French.
The people are not hyper-friendly, things are not very cheap and barely anyone speaks English. The language barrier makes it quite difficult to navigate the city and it would be doubly so for someone new to the continent. This is a sprawling metropolis, not a little town, things move fast here and people are rather Frenchy. Even I felt timid walking around the first few days, and not many places make me feel that way.
It’s also not a city for beginner budget travellers. You will need to be rather travel savvy to stay on a tight budget here; that means staying in neighbourhoods that are quite far out of the city centre, seeking out (very local) markets and roadside stalls to get your food, and negotiating in French for every single taxi ride. Public transport is almost non-existent.
If it’s your first time in Africa, be ready to go straight in the deep end.
However that doesn’t mean you can’t do it! You will likely spend a lot of money but the city is safe by most standards and first world amenities are easily available (for a price), so it just depends on what kind of trip you’re looking for.
Abidjan is very business oriented and things move reasonably fast. It has all the modern amenities you want, such as large supermarkets, electronics stores, designer brands, Burger King and KFC, luxury hotels, fancy restaurants, European cars etc etc.
There is a lot of business here which obviously leads to a lot of money floating around. People spending big in nightclubs, driving an Audi, living in luxury apartments and so on.
You’ll quickly see the modern side of Abidjan is extremely expensive – on par with France – the kind of places where you might pay $5 or $6 for a coffee. However, that’s only one side of the city, the side that all the expats and foreign companies come for.
The other side of the city – people living in high density housing, selling snacks on the street for 50 cents, hustling every day to get by – obviously exists too. This is the side of the city most people live on.
The gap between rich and poor here is probably the biggest I’ve seen in any major city, so you essentially have two halves of a city living completely different lives. As a human it might be disheartening, but as a traveller it sets a very interesting scene.
There is also an extremely fast growing middle class in Abidjan from all the money that’s been pouring in; this is the second fastest growing economy in the world. If there was any doubt about the changing fortunes of Africa, that will all be dusted once you set foot in this city.
Unless you’re from one of the ECOWAS nations, you’re going to need a visa to enter the Ivory Coast, regardless of your reason.
There are no visas on arrival, or if there are, they are very time-consuming to get. Abidjan tourism is still not at the point where things are easy for visitors.
Instead, you need to get an e-visa prior to arriving. It’s straightforward and is done completely online. It takes around 48 hours and costs around $100.
I have a complete guide on how I got my Ivory Coast e-visa here.
You also need a yellow fever certificate – there is even a health centre right there in arrivals where (I assume) people who don’t have a certificate will need to get a yellow fever vaccination before entering. If the thought of getting vaccinated in an Ivory Coast airport doesn’t excite you, I suggest you get vaccinated at home.
I arrived in Abidjan in the middle of the night, around 1 a.m.
In Europe or even much of Asia, arriving in the middle of the night isn’t a problem and public transport will still get you anywhere you need to go.
Not west Africa. In fact five years ago I would’ve paid extra just to avoid this flight and the midnight airport antics. Cab drivers in African airports are some of the worst when it comes to hustling tourists.
I had a very friendly man approach me as soon as I exited the gates, as I was expecting. I went straight to the ATM and he followed me, acting like he was being my security guard and making lots of small talk.
Then I walked over to the info desk and asked the guy which taxis were safe. He chatted quickly in French with the guy following me, and then told me it would be fine to go with him.
My contact in Cote d’Ivoire had told me the correct price is 6,000 francs during the day, but during the night it could be 8,000 or slightly more. Just as I was about to start talking price he said “So you give me 20,000 okay?” and started walking off with my bag. I stopped him and laughed and told him I’ll find someone else. He offered 15,000 and I just tried to ignore him. Then he got annoyed.
“You think you know the price? You don’t know the price!” and he stormed off.
The guy at the information desk was really helpful and even called my Airbnb to double check the address, then called a taxi driver for me and gave him all the instructions. In the end I paid 10,000 to 7eme tranche, which is around $17.
You could bargain the price down more if you have the energy, otherwise just live with the few dollars extra, known in this part of the world as the “white tax” 😀
The map above shows the main areas of Abidjan, which is split into two parts – the north and the south.
As you can see it’s connected by three bridges, so in peak hour traffic getting across town is extremely slow. From Marcory to Angré might take 15 minutes late at night, but over an hour at 6pm.
A few quick one-liners about these neighbourhoods:
Marcory – Very active area with lots of malls, restaurants and bars.
Cocody – Upper class area with many expats.
Angré – Northern suburban area
Riviera – Middle upper class area with many bars, restaurants.
Plateau – Central business district with many office buildings.
Treichville – Rougher and more local side of Marcory.
Yopougon – Very large, local area.
It’s hard to choose a best neighbourhood in Abidjan, but probably the easiest way to describe it is if Abidjan was New York then Plateau would be Wall Street, Marcory would be Times Square, Treichville would be Harlem, Yopougon would definitely be Queens, Riviera and Cocody would be Brooklyn and Angré might be the Bronx. Something like that!
Marcory is the most central part of town where you can do everything – eat street food but also eat in nice air conditioned malls, stay in nice hotels but also cheap guesthouses etc. You will also see quite a lot of expats and foreigners around here running their businesses, shopping, and just doing daily errands. Many of them are out here eating/drinking during the nights as well.
As a tourist, you probably want to stay in and around Marcory if you’re on a short trip. It’s the central hub that connects all the different corners of the city, and many of the popular places to visit in Abidjan are around here.
Traffic in Abidjan is not a joke and you don’t want to be spending your trip commuting down to Marcory every other day.
If you’re after a place to stay, Villa Ayaba is centrally located in Marcory and a good launching point for a tourist visit.
If you’re staying in the city longer (more than two weeks) you might want to stay up in the northern neighbourhoods around Cocody and Angré.
Angré is where you will find most of these places, especially around 7eme tranche and 8eme tranche which is where I stayed. You won’t see many foreigners around these parts, in fact I rarely saw any at all, except for a few Lebanese that owned restaurants and shops.
Also, I got a good number of stares each day so you know they don’t see tourists too often around here!
However the area is safe and security guards are everywhere, even walking around after dark was safe and normal judging by locals’ behaviour.
A good place to stay up in that area is Villa Jaddis. It’s around the 7eme tranche and one of the top accommodations in the city, suitable for someone visiting for the first time.
For something cheaper, you could try Residence Helios. It’s lower down in Cocody around Riviera 4, but still a decent area.
The Riviera zones are also nice but it’s quieter and more spread out and harder to find tourist accommodation around there.
Plateau is also possible but it’s mostly very pricey hotels – but if that’s what you’re looking for you’ll have many quality places to choose from.
For example, I visited the Sofitel Ivoire one afternoon and it literally has the largest pool I’ve seen in my life.
This is one half of their swimming pool:
Staying in a place like that will cost you around $250-$300 USD per night. Not a bad place if it’s in your budget 😉
Airbnb is quite rare in this part of town, so again Booking.com is your best bet for getting a good rate.
As for Yopougon and Treichville, you probably don’t want to stay around there as a tourist unless you want to go full local, but those places are probably better for day visits.
The currency in Ivory Coast is the franc, or the CFA (Communauté Financière Africaine). It’s a common currency used in all the former French colonies in west Africa. The other countries using the franc are Benin, Burkina Faso, Guinea-Bissau, Mali, Niger, Senegal and Togo.
The exchange rate is currently around 570 CFA to $1 USD.
One piece of advice here – the thing that plagued my trip was the issue of having the right change. For some reason, nobody ever has change in Abidjan.
I went to buy bread one morning which was 300 francs, and I only had a 5,000 note. They wouldn’t accept it, so I spent around two hours walking around trying to buy stuff like fruit or eggs to try and get change, but nobody had any change so they wouldn’t sell me anything.
I even asked my Airbnb security guard if he could help, so he went walking around with me to some shops and still no dice.
I never thought I’d see the day where I literally struggled to give money to people, in Africa!
Another time I bought some laundry powder from the shop down the road, it was 300 and I paid with a 1,000. The guy gave me 500 in change and told me to come back tomorrow for the other 200 (which I did).
This was practically a daily occurrence throughout my stay in Abidjan.
The point, always keep your small change! When you get money from the ATM you’re going to get a stack of crisp 10,000 franc notes, which nobody is going to want. Break them every opportunity you get and refrain from spending your small notes and coins until you really need to. It will make your days so much easier.
Most people, even locals, get around by taxi or private car.
Taxis are the red/orange cars you see in the photo above. They’re often poorly maintained (you’ll see them broken down all the time) but they are everywhere so never hard to find.
They will usually cost you around 1,000 CFA ($1.75) for a short trip, such as if you’re just going to the next neighbourhood or somewhere nearby (say 10 minutes or so). Usually you don’t even need to negotiate for these trips, just give the driver 1,000 when you get out.
Longer trips you’ll have to negotiate. If you’re going from Angré down to Marcory it will be 2,500-3,500 CFA ($4.30-$6), depending on your negotiating skills, the time of day, and how nice the driver is. If he’s cool he’ll just agree to 2,500 off the bat, if he’s a dickhead he’ll try and push you for 4,000 and make you haggle down to 3,500. But if he insists on ripping you off just wave down another taxi, there’s a new one driving past you every minute.
You can imagine this is quite draining (even local friends complained about this) but try and embrace it as part of your Abidjan experience. If anything it certainly improves your French!
There are also yellow taxis which are shared taxis and are cheaper, but they are quite complicated to use.
Again remember to keep small change for taxis, or at least ask them before the ride if they have change for a 5,000 or a 10,000. This will avoid a debacle when it finally comes time to pay.
Abidjan is a safe city.
There are police around quite often, but they never looked twice at me or gave me any troubles.
You can also feel from the general vibe that most areas aren’t considered dangerous. All the indicators of safety (women walking alone at night, street stalls open after dark, kids playing outside etc) could be seen in most parts of the city. Also when I walked around alone at night nobody gave me the “what are you doing!” look so overall things felt very safe. Most local contacts told me the same.
After the civil war, the military presence in the city increased significantly and is still there. My cab was even stopped and I was body searched at one in the middle of the night. The cab driver just rolled his eyes like it was standard procedure so I wasn’t too worried about it. He looked curiously at my camera tripod, but that was it. Didn’t ask for a bribe or anything.
Of course there are definitely parts of the city you shouldn’t be wandering around alone in, but I can’t imagine you have any reason to go there. Common sense should be enough to keep you out of trouble.
As for personal experiences, I didn’t experience any danger during my stay. However, my phone did get stolen and apparently this is quite common so be wary of this.
It was while I was sitting in a traffic jam at night, and I had the window down. I was scrolling through something on my phone and then suddenly – whoop! A hand reached in and snatched it. I looked out the window and saw a street kid, probably around 18 years old, running up the hill into the bushes.
The funny thing is I was actually warned about this about a week earlier – I was in a cab using my phone with the window down during the day, and the driver told me to be careful because people can reach in and steal it. One week later, someone reaches in and steals it. What a surprise…
However petty theft like this is common in almost all of the developing world and it doesn’t concern me much. I’m only concerned about violent crime, and that seems pretty rare in Abidjan (at least in the places you’re likely to visit).
Thankfully, travel insurance covered it and reimbursed me for the new phone I bought after I got home. Thanks World Nomads!
This was probably the most interesting part of my visit as I never really came to a concrete conclusion.
My first observation was Abidjanians (if that’s a word) seem to have inherited some of the French preciousness. The average person on the street can seem stand-offish or even unwelcoming. Even when you make eye contact, they won’t return or even acknowledge a smile, or at times may even ignore your bonjour or bonsoir. Sometimes they stare at you like “Why are you talking to me?”
Many middle and upper-class Ivorians have lived in Paris and other parts of France, so that’s likely part of it.
However, a good percentage of people will also greet your eye contact with warm smiles and greetings and make you suddenly feel like you’re in the heart of Africa again.
It’s two polar opposites.
Sometimes it’s hard to judge. Security guards often seem like they’re giving you the death stare as you walk past, but as soon as you smile and wave they transform into a Sesame Street character and wave back with a huge grin.
Even when you go to buy stuff at fruit stands etc, people don’t tend to welcome you with big smiles or anything. The one fruit stand around the corner from my apartment was very cold and impersonal on my first day, but on the subsequent days she greeted me with a big smile and a bonjour chinois! like she was my best friend. So it seems that you need to develop some kind of familiarity with people first before their warmth comes out. Again it feels a bit like France in that sense.
This might be partly a big-city mentality rather than specifically an Ivorian thing, but it’s what you’ll find in Abidjan.
They’ve inherited the good side of the Frenchness too, however! For example, whenever I was invited out for meals or to meet people, they always insisted on paying the bill and were super hospitable and treat you like a special guest, always asking if you need another drink and so on. Compare this to a place like maybe Tanzania, where every single time I’ve been out with a local (which is many) people have seen me as the wealthy foreigner and always expect me to pay. So seeing all the sides of the culture is very interesting.
Also, it helps to remember Abidjan is one of the major cosmopolitan cities of West Africa so there are a lot of Malians, Nigerians, Ghanaians, Guineans and so on living here, so you don’t even know who is from where. Many of the people you walk past probably aren’t even Ivorian!
Overall people are very decent here, but if you’re expecting the African mega-friendliness from strangers like you do in Uganda or Tanzania you’ll be disappointed.
This is my buddy and fellow blogger Yasmine, one of the few people I met in Abidjan who spoke fluent English (after studying in the UK). But that’s definitely not the norm here.
Overall, English is poorly spoken in Abidjan.
Almost every taxi driver will speak no English, or very little, and even staff in shopping malls will probably only speak French.
Even very well-educated people won’t speak great English – it’s just not a priority here. The language is French and absolutely everything is done in French.
That means French is essential if you plan on staying here for more than a week or two. Even if you don’t want to put much effort into learning, you should definitely learn your numbers so you can understand prices, and learn basic phrases for food and asking directions.
You might want to use my guide for learning a language in seven days.
What to do in Abidjan once you’ve seen everything? EAT!
Attieke – A bit like a cassava couscous, which is a staple here and you’ll see it sold all over the city.
Alloko – Deep fried chopped plantains, just think french fries, but as bananas.
Foutou – A pounded cassava and banana mash, almost like mashed potatoes.
Placali – Like foutou but without the banana.
Fufu – Like foutou but without the casava.
You can try the above with all different kinds of sauces, usually the menu changes every day, and revolves around fish, chicken, snails, crab, beef. The sauces are generally spicy.
In the night it’s all about the braises. Most popular are the chicken (poulet braise) and the fish (poisson braise), both go great with attieke or alloko!
It’s hard for me to recommend places to eat as I just walk around and pop into wherever looks good, but I will suggest checking out Yasmine’s blog afrofoodie.com and her Instagram – she’s one of the biggest food bloggers in Abidjan and knows pretty much every joint in town, you’ll find endless ideas on her feed!
Another thing you should definitely try is the fruit! The papayas, the pineapples and the cacaos are amazing in Cote d’Ivoire, some of the best I’ve ever had and they’re super cheap. A papaya or a pineapple might cost you 200 CFA (35 cents) on the street.
And lastly, make sure you get your fair share of bread and baguettes in.
Obviously, the French were here for a long time and the baguettes are as good as if not better than in France itself, 100-150 CFA (25 cents) each. Eat them while they’re hot!
Always drink bottled water. It is inexpensive and safe.
Some people sell plastic sachets of water on the street, but be warned that this is simply filtered water and if you have a very sensitive stomach it may not sit well with you.
I also recommend you read my article on preventing traveller’s diarrhea.
The biggest network in Cote d’Ivoire is Orange and I’d recommend getting your sim with them. You can get a sim card with around 12GB/month (changes all the time) for 10,000 CFA ($17 USD). The internet is 4G/LTE and the coverage is good.
Just find an Orange store and take your passport and they’ll set it up for you. However be warned that nobody spoke English at any of the Orange stores I went to, so be prepared!
The other networks are MTN and Moov, but everyone recommended going with Orange.
While there are plenty of interesting things to do in Abidjan, getting outside the city is incredible too. The two obvious trips are to Grand Bassam, the UNESCO beach town to the east, and Assinie, the beach resort area even further to the east.
To get to Grand Bassam, the cheapest way is to get the bus. You can catch a bus from the bus stop at Adjame, or you can also catch a minibus from the bus stop at Treichville. The price will be around 500 – 1,000 CFA ($1.75).
To get to Assinie, definitely go to Treichville as it has a van that goes direct. The price will be 1,500 CFA.
You can also get asked to pay extra if you have a large bag that needs loading, around 1,000 CFA.
To get to these bus stops just ask a taxi to take you, they all know where it is. You can also negotiate with the taxi to drive you to these places himself, you might pay anywhere from 12,000-20,000 CFA for a round-trip, but you’ll need to negotiate hard.
The other way to get to these places is to make some local friends. It’s really popular to head to Bassam for the beach during the weekend, if you make the right connects you can just hitch a ride!
Abidjan is not cheap.
I stayed in Abidjan for around six weeks (43 days), here’s how much I spent:
Transport: 84,000 CFA
Food and water: 148,000 CFA
Accommodation: 623,000 CFA
Misc: 59,000 CFA
Total: 914,000 CFA ($1,600 USD or around $37 per day).
Here’s how this breaks down:
Food was mostly cooked myself with stuff bought from the market and stalls like this:
Usually 2,000 CFA ($3.50) should get you enough fruit and veg for 2-3 days.
I did eat out every few days at local eateries and roadside places which are usually cheap-ish. For example this meal with a bottle of water was 2,700 CFA ($4.70):
Accommodation was all Airbnb, staying in studios around Angré 7eme and 8eme tranche. Usually around 15,000-20,000 CFA ($25-$43) per night for a place like this:
Transport was all local taxis, sometimes I went into Marcory to meet friends or just wander around, but I didn’t do that every day. Often I just stayed around Angré.
Miscellaneous includes things like cellphone, laundry, tips, and other random everyday things.
So what’s the right budget?
If you want to go hyper-budget travel and really live locally, you can get by on $10-20 USD per day. However that is going to be uncomfortable for even the super experienced backpacker.
I would say a more reasonable budget is around $40-$50 USD per day – this will include staying in an Airbnb and eating local food at local places.
If you think you will be spending more time in expat-oriented places, such as eating at shopping malls and restaurants, you’ll be at around $80-$100 USD per day, and closer to $150 per day if you’re staying in a nice hotel.
As a guide, there are many decent hotels on Booking.com for around 20,000-30,000 CFA ($35-$50 USD) and much nicer ones in the $100+ USD range.
To get your visa, make sure you apply online at this page. If you need guidance, follow my guide.
Travel insurance is highly recommended when visiting Abidjan. I used World Nomads. If you’re new to travel insurance, check out my guide.
Best prices for Abidjan hotels will be found on Booking.com. Click here for the best rates.
Airbnb has many good options, especially in outer neighbourhoods. If you’ve never used Airbnb before, you can get $25 off your first booking with this link.
Any questions, leave them below.
Enjoy Abidjan!!
Featured image: Citizen59@Flickr
Disclaimer: World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers in over 100 countries. As an affiliate, we receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is information only and not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.
This article is a part of my travel tips series for New Zealand travellers. If you’re not from NZ, this post won’t apply to you. You can see the rest of the Kiwi traveller guides by clicking here.
Busy? To skip the analysis and go straight to the results, click here!
If you’re a travel fiend and you’re not racking up Airpoints yet, what is wrong with you?! You don’t like free holidays? You don’t want discounts on all your flights? Get on board, bro!!
Luckily for you I’ve researched this topic inside out and am about to break it down for you – the best Airpoints credit cards, how to use them and what to watch out for before you sign up.
Here’s the deal: Travel hacking in New Zealand is still in the little leagues, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get a bunch of free stuff. I’m only in New Zealand a few months per year, and I barely spend any money here, and I hardly fly Air NZ (I mostly fly budget airlines like Jetstar and Scoot), but even I have over a thousand dollars worth of Airpoints sitting in my account for a rainy day. That’s a free flight to almost anywhere in the world!
If you haven’t been stacking Airpoints, I suggest you start!
Airpoints are New Zealand’s version of frequent flyer miles, and are managed by our national airline, Air New Zealand.
Unlike many frequent flyer miles programs, Airpoints dollars are much easier to understand.
One Airpoints dollar is worth the same as one New Zealand dollar – so if you’ve accumulated 1,000 Airpoints dollars it means you can buy a $1,000 plane ticket.
Nice and simple.
Airpoints expire after four years from the date they are accrued.
First thing you need to do is join Airpoints. This is free. Just sign up here.
Now to start racking up Airpoints dollars. There are many ways to do this, but one of the best ways is to use an Airpoints credit card.
Every time you use an Airpoints credit card to purchase something, you get rewarded with Airpoints dollars. The great thing about this is – you don’t even need to do anything special. Just keep buying all the same things you buy right now, but start using an Airpoints credit card instead.
For most people, that’s going to give you at least a free domestic or Aussie flight each year.
Contrary to what most people think, credit cards are not complicated. To earn Airpoints with credit cards you don’t need to churn a ton of cards and you don’t need to spend any money on fees. As long as you choose the right card and always pay your bill on time, you can have a credit card and earn Airpoints and pay no fees whatsoever.
One important thing to note here is you need to manage your finances properly for your Airpoints strategy to work. That means:
As long as you do these two simple things, you can literally pay nothing in fees or interest the entire year, including annual fees. I’ll go through how to do that below.
As you’ll see in the next few minutes this is a slightly complicated question, and will vary from person to person.
There are lots of Airpoints credit cards. ANZ, Kiwibank, Westpac and American Express all offer several different Airpoints cards, ranging from basic to platinum. I’m going to break down each of the cards so we can see which is best for you.
If you want to skip the analysis and go straight to the results, click here.
Let’s begin with the entry level cards.
Entry level cards are the cards with the lowest fees. They also come with the fewest perks. My goal is usually to spend as little money as possible, so I’m a big fan of the entry level cards, and tend to use them over the fancy juiced up cards.
There are currently four entry-level Airpoints cards available in NZ. Here’s what’s on offer:
| Annual fee | Earn rate | Breakeven point | |
|---|---|---|---|
| American Express Airpoints | $0 | $100 = 1AD | $0 |
| Westpac Airpoints Mastercard | $70 | $150 = 1AD | $10,500 |
| ANZ Airpoints VISA | $65 | $170 = 1AD | $11,050 |
| Kiwibank Airpoints Low Fee Mastercard | $50 | $200 = 1AD | $10,000 |
(swipe left/right to scroll)
The first column shows the annual fee for each card.
The second column shows the “earn rate”. The earn rate is how many dollars you need to spend on your card to earn an Airpoints dollar. For example with the Kiwibank Airpoints Low Fee credit card, every time you spend $160 you will earn 1 Airpoints dollar.
The final column is where I have calculated the break even point. The break even point is the amount you need to spend on the card per year before it becomes “profitable”.
As an example, since the Kiwibank card costs $50 per year to have, that means we need to earn at least $50 Airpoints dollars for the card to be worthwhile. If we’re paying $50 in annual fees but only earning $20 in Airpoints dollars, that’s a loss of $30, meaning we’d be better off not having the card at all.
From the table you can see the breakeven point on the Kiwibank card is $10,000, meaning you need to spend at least that much per year to be in “Airpoints profit”.
As for which card is best at this level, it’s a super easy choice: the American Express Airpoints card.
The American Express Airpoints card is currently the only Airpoints credit card on the market with no annual fee. It seems kind of odd that Amex has the cheapest card available, you would probably suspect it would be Kiwibank, but it’s not the case.
The American Express Airpoints card also has a better earn rate than any other entry-level card: 1 Airpoints dollar (AD) for every $100 NZD you spend. So it’s the cheapest card and it earns you the most Airpoints. Easy choice.
One thing that can change those numbers significantly is a good sign up bonus.
Sign up bonuses change all the time, but at the time of writing this article the only sign up bonus available on entry level cards is with American Express; you will get 50 free Airpoints dollars with the American Express Airpoints card once you’re approved and meet a minimum spend of $750 within 3 months (available to new Card Members only). Click here to check if this bonus is still available).
As a comparison point, you would need to spend $7,000 on the Kiwibank Airpoints Low Fee credit card to earn 50 Airpoints dollars, so an up-front bonus like this is definitely worthwhile.
(Westpac and Kiwibank also offer sign up bonuses at select times during the year, but they’re not available right now. I’ll update this article when they do come around).
The best entry level card is easily the American Express Airpoints card, which should be clear to see from the numbers we crunched above. If you’re not a big spender and just want to start stashing Airpoints without paying any fees, this is the perfect card for you.
However, I’d hold off from applying for any of the above cards just yet. That’s because the platinum cards might be an even better choice for you. Let’s take a look.
While the entry level cards are good for dabbling in Airpoints, the platinum cards are there for people who want to get serious about earning a lot of Airpoints fast. As for which card is best, it’s slightly harder to pick a winner at the top end of the Airpoints card range.
Let’s take a look at what’s on offer:
| Annual fee | Earn rate | Breakeven point | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Amex Airpoints Platinum | 195 | 70 | $13,650 |
| Westpac Platinum (earns $220 over $7k) | 125 | 110/220 | $20,501 |
| Westpac World (earns $190 over $15k) | 310 | 95/190 | $43,901 |
| Kiwibank Platinum | 180 | 115 | $20,700 |
| ANZ Platinum | 180 | 110 | $19,800 |
So, which card is best?
If you’re going for earn rate, American Express leads the way again with the American Express Airpoints Platinum at $70 = 1 Airpoints Dollar. It’s the best earn rate of any Airpoints card available today.
As for fees, the cheapest card is the Westpac Airpoints Platinum Credit Card, with an annual fee of $125. However, it’s earn rate (1 Airpoint dollar for every $110 spent up til $7k, then 1 Airpoint dollar per $220 thereafter) is the worst. You’ll break even slower with this card.
The most expensive card is the Westpac Airpoints World Credit Card, which has an annual fee of $310, and the worst break-even point.
However, those numbers still don’t paint the full picture. You need to consider this: A good earn rate won’t matter if the annual fee is high, and a high annual fee might not matter if the earn rate is high. The only thing we should be looking at is how much Airpoints profit we actually make on each card, because that’s all that matters in the end. I’ve worked that out in the table below:
| Annual fee | Earn rate | $10,000 | $15,000 | $25,000 | $50,000 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Amex Airpoints Platinum | 195 | 70 | -52 | 19 | 162 | 519 |
| Westpac Platinum | 125 | 110/220 | -48 | -25 | 20 | 149 |
| Westpac World | 310 | 95/190 | -205 | -152 | -99 | 32 |
| Kiwibank Platinum | 180 | 115 | -93 | -50 | 37 | 255 |
| ANZ Platinum | 180 | 110 | -89 | -44 | 47 | 275 |
To explain how this table works, let’s take the third column as an example.
In this column we’re assuming annual card spending of $25,000. At the American Express Platinum earn rate ($70 = 1 Airpoints dollar), that level of spending will earn you 357 Airpoints dollars. Take away the Amex Platinum annual fee of $195, and that will give you a total Airpoints profit of 162 Airpoints dollars, which is the number you see in the table.
Basically Airpoints profit = Airpoints earned minus the annual fee.
In the chart above I’ve worked out the “Airpoints profit” for all the platinum cards at spending levels of $10,000, $15,000, $25,000 and $50,000.
As you can see, the American Express Airpoints Platinum is definitely the most profitable card to have once you hit the breakeven point. That’s because it has the best earn rate. Once you have made back your annual fee, it will earn you Airpoints faster than any other card and the gap only widens as your spending rises (some cards might earn you Airpoints faster in special situations or retailers, but for everyday spending, the AMEX Platinum is number one).
Another thing to note is all platinum cards make a loss at the $10,000 level of spending. Once you get to $15k of spending, every card still produces a loss except the AMEX Airpoints Platinum.
That means if you plan on spending less than $10,000 on your card each year, do not get a platinum card. You will be losing money. Stick to one of the low level cards, preferably the American Express basic card, because it has no annual fee.
Now before we decide which card is best overall, there’s something else we need to talk about first: perks!
Platinum credit cards are renowned for perks. Let’s go through some of the perks offered by the cards above.
If you’re after Status Points, the front runner is the Kiwibank Airpoints Platinum Credit Card, which gets you 1 Status Point per $200. Both the Westpac Platinum Airpoints card and Westpac World Airpoints card earn you 1 Status Point per $225 spent, and the Amex Platinum and ANZ Platinum earn you 1 Status Point per $250 spent.
Status Points determine your frequent flyer status. As an example, you need 450 Status Points to become a Silver Airpoints member. Once you get to silver, you get all kinds of fancy lounge and baggage bonuses and so on. To accumulate the required 450 Status points within a year, you’d need to spend $90,000 on your platinum card. Because I don’t spend anywhere near that amount I don’t even really look at my Status points, but if you’re a big spender your Status Points earn rate might be important to you. Of course you can also earn Status points by actually flying – for example a trip from Auckland to Sydney might earn you 10-15 Status points, depending on your flight. You can read more about Status points here.
I’m not going to delve into Status points in this article because I think they’re irrelevant to most of us. Status points don’t save you money, and you can’t use them to buy plane tickets. They just give you special frills like priority check-in, baggage privileges and whatever.
Status is nice but it’s not something you need to focus on when trying to max your Airpoints strategy. I had one year where I flew Air New Zealand and Star Alliance a shitload and still didn’t reach Silver, so it’s going to be pretty tough for regular travellers to amass those kinds of Status points (let alone travel enough to really enjoy them).
Remember I’m a strong budget travel advocate, and dislike needless spending. Our goal here is to focus on earning real Airpoints dollars that can buy you plane tickets and save you money.
Every platinum card gives you a joining fee waiver for Koru club and a $145 membership fee discount – this seems pretty standard. But unless you fly Air New Zealand over ten times per year I would also say Koru Club is a waste of money – it’s $629 per year.
For that fee you get lounge access and some check-in and baggage perks – nothing you can’t just pay for at the time anyway. So you really need to be travelling a lot for Koru to be worth it, even with the discount. Anyway, every platinum card offers the same perks for Koru, so whichever card you choose you’ll get it anyway. You can read up on all Koru club benefits here.
All platinum cards also give complimentary overseas travel insurance. Interestingly, American Express is the only one that gives free domestic travel insurance as well. I haven’t looked into each policy specifically, but usually credit card insurance is for trips up to 30ish days and travel must be booked on the card.
More exclusive cards like the Westpac World Airpoints card cover you for up to 120 days. All the policies vary slightly, but it’s too dense a topic for me to summarise here. You can check out the details in the terms and conditions of each card.
I won’t lie, airport lounges are pretty cool. At the moment most of the cards get you lounge access but at different levels.
The Kiwibank Platinum Airpoints credit card and ANZ Platinum Airpoints credit card both give you one pair of Koru Lounge passes for every $20,000 you spend on your card, which is pretty shitty. I believe the Koru passes give you access to any Air NZ or partner lounge, which you can see here.
The American Express Airpoints Platinum is the next level up. You automatically get two lounge passes to the American Express Lounge at Sydney and Melbourne Airport, and you also get two VIP passes to any Priority Pass lounge (Priority Pass lounges can be found in pretty much every major airport around the world). You get these without having to meet any minimum spend. So when it comes to free lounge access – Amex is a few notches up on Kiwibank and ANZ.
Westpac has two premium cards. The Westpac Platinum Airpoints card does not give you lounge access at all. The Westpac World Airpoints card gives you full Priority Pass membership, meaning you get unlimited Priority Pass lounge access. I’ve confirmed with Westpac that this equals completely free access, so you will pretty much have free lounge access in every major airport in the world. Not bad!
One thing to remember – lounge access is cool but doesn’t mean the card is worth getting. You can get into most lounges for $50ish anyway, so paying hundreds in annual fees for “free” access isn’t always a good deal. Think of it as a cool bonus, rather than something you specifically get the card for.
Sign up bonuses are one of the main things you should look at before signing up for a platinum card. As our goal is to earn Airpoints, what could be better than getting a big chunk of Airpoints dollars just for signing up?
Again, sign up bonuses change all the time, and the banks rarely offer them. The only one who has a long-standing sign up offer is AMEX.
The American Express Airpoints Platinum is offering a 400 Airpoints dollars sign up bonus once you’re approved and meet a minimum spend of $1,500 in the first 3 months. The $0 annual fee AMEX Airpoints card has a $50 signup bonus. (available to New Card members only).
Every card tends to offer some sort of bonus throughout the year, so do remember to check back periodically.
Now that we’ve looked at both platinum cards and standard cards, let’s compare them. The table below shows the amount of Airpoints profit you will earn with each card at each level of spending (including a deduction for each card’s annual fee). You should recall I showed this table earlier with only the platinum cards. This new table compares all cards (basic and platinum).
| Annual fee | Earn rate | $5,000 | $15,000 | $25,000 | $50,000 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AMEX Airpoints | 0 | 100 | 50 | 150 | 250 | 500 |
| AMEX Airpoints Platinum | 195 | 70 | -124 | 19 | 162 | 519 |
| Westpac Airpoints | 70 | 150 | -42 | -8 | 25 | 108 |
| Westpac Platinum | 125 | 110/220 | -80 | -25 | 20 | 149 |
| Westpac World | 310 | 95/190 | -257 | -152 | -99 | 32 |
| Kiwibank Low Fee | 50 | 200 | -25 | 25 | 75 | 200 |
| Kiwibank Platinum | 180 | 115 | -137 | -50 | 37 | 255 |
| ANZ Airpoints | 65 | 170 | -36 | 23 | 82 | 229 |
| ANZ Platinum | 180 | 110 | -135 | -44 | 47 | 275 |
From the table you can see the standard American Express Airpoints card is the best card overall right up to $25,000 of spending. Then somewhere around $28,000 the American Express Airpoints Platinum overtakes it to become the more profitable card, and will remain the most profitable card at all levels of spending after that.
The Westpac World Airpoints credit card is the least profitable card up to $25,000 of spending, and gets overtaken by the Kiwibank Low Fee Airpoints credit card around the $40,000 mark, so if you’re looking to earn Airpoints fast, those would be two cards to avoid.
Remember if you’re getting a big sign up bonus, the picture changes slightly.
For example, if you get 200 Airpoints dollars as soon as you sign up, most cards will become profitable straight away. Here’s a revised table taking sign up bonuses into account:
| Annual fee | Earn rate | Signup bonus | $5,000 | $15,000 | $25,000 | $50,000 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AMEX Airpoints | 0 | 100 | 50 | 100 | 200 | 300 | 550 |
| AMEX Airpoints Platinum | 195 | 70 | 400 | 276 | 419 | 562 | 919 |
| Westpac Airpoints | 70 | 150 | -42 | -8 | 25 | 108 | |
| Westpac Platinum | 125 | 110/220 | -80 | -25 | 20 | 149 | |
| Westpac World | 310 | 95/190 | -257 | -152 | -99 | 32 | |
| Kiwibank Low Fee | 50 | 200 | -25 | 25 | 75 | 200 | |
| Kiwibank Platinum | 180 | 115 | -137 | -50 | 37 | 255 | |
| ANZ Airpoints | 65 | 170 | -36 | 23 | 82 | 229 | |
| ANZ Platinum | 180 | 110 | -135 | -44 | 47 | 275 |
After bonuses, the American Express Airpoints Platinum is the clear leader, which has a solid 400 Airpoints dollar sign-up bonus (basically a free flight to Aussie!). This easily makes it the most profitable card across the board at any level of spending.
Remember the bonus is a one-off signup bonus that you only receive in your first year, so after the first year this table becomes irrelevant. You should refer to the earlier table when deciding on a long term card.
Some of you are probably wondering if there are any Airpoints debit cards out there, since debit cards have become pretty popular lately.
There is only one Airpoints debit card I know of which is issued by Air NZ itself. In fact, Air NZ should send you one as soon as you sign up for Airpoints. It’s actually a pretty cool card – it’s called the Onesmart card and doubles as a Fly Buys card and a multi-currency travel card. To use it as a debit card, you can just jump online and activate it in your Airpoints account.
But is it any good?
Here are the numbers:
| Annual fee | Earn rate | Breakeven point | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Air NZ Onesmart card | $12 | $100 = 1AD | $1,200 |
As you can see it’s a nice cheap card with a low breakeven point, but the earn rate is pretty dismal. Using it to try and earn any significant amount of Airpoints wouldn’t be too fruitful.
I’ve actually used this card on a few trips and didn’t end up recommending it. The main reason was the exchange rates were super loaded. Any Airpoints you do manage to earn will quickly be eaten up by losses on currency exchange. And it’s simply not worth using it in NZ when the credit cards earn you Airpoints so much faster. So my overall recommendation for this card is: Avoid.
I did a more thorough breakdown of NZ debit cards in my guide on banking for NZ travellers – you can check that out here.
Now that we’ve crunched the numbers, here’s what I recommend:
The first card I recommend getting is the American Express Airpoints Platinum (assuming you are eligible for the signup bonus). Here’s why:
You can apply for an American Express Airpoints Platinum card online here.
If Amex or the banks aren’t offering any signup bonuses, my recommendation is the basic American Express Airpoints. Here’s why:
Even if you’re not that interested in Airpoints, this card has no annual fees and most of the year offers a 50 Airpoints bonus on sign up (new Card Members only). You’re literally being paid $50 to fill out some forms. If that’s not a good enough deal for you, I don’t know what is.
You can apply for your $0 annual fee American Express Airpoints card online here.
Another cool thing is if you go with the American Express Airpoints Platinum, after the first year you can just downgrade to the $0 annual fee American Express Airpoints to avoid the $195 annual fee. Or, if you feel the annual fee is worth the higher earn rate, free travel insurance and lounge access, you can just keep it.
As we saw from the tables above, if you spend $28,000 or more per year on your card, it’s more profitable have the platinum card, even with the annual fee. So if you’re spending that level, keep the card, if not, downgrade. Pretty simple eh? 🙂
Because the American Express cards are so superior in earning power, I don’t really recommend getting other Airpoints credit cards unless they’re free.
However, the thing with American Express is it isn’t accepted everywhere. I use it at the supermarket and gas station without problems, which is where I spend most of my money anyway, but some smaller businesses won’t accept it.
Therefore it can make sense to have a backup Visa or Mastercard, just in case.
My usual recommendation is to use a Visa debit, EFTPOS card, or get the zero-fee card from Kiwibank or ASB. They’re not Airpoints cards, but they’re free, and since you’re doing most of your spending on your Amex you shouldn’t be missing out on many Airpoints anyway.
If you absolutely must get a Airpoints Visa or Mastercard today, just look at the spending tables above and determine which one will be profitable for you. As a starting point, the Kiwibank Airpoints Low Fee credit card is the cheapest card ($50 per year) but also has the lowest earn rate ($200 per Airpoints dollar). You’ll need to spend at least $10,000 per year on that card for it to be profitable.
As a sidenote, sometimes ANZ and Westpac sometimes offer a “no annual fee” bonus on new signups, so you can actually get the ANZ Airpoints Platinum credit card or the Westpac Airpoints Platinum card free for year! If that offer is available (click here and here to check) definitely go with that as your backup Visa/Mastercard.
In all cases, I would still recommend getting the Amex Airpoints Platinum first, as it will simply earn you far more Airpoints and get you a free flight sooner than any other card. It’s a no brainer.
That’s it!
Hope this helps you all get tons of free flights and if you have any questions at all, just leave them in the comments.
Safe travels,
Bren
So you’re heading to Phuket?
Get excited!
I most recently visited Phuket in early 2025, and it was just as spectacular as I remembered it the first time, before I even started this travel blog. It’s an incredible place, and you can spend an entire year exploring this island and never get bored.
With so many places to see though, it can be a challenge to find the right place to spend your holiday. If you’ve only got a week, where do you go? What do you do?
The thing about Phuket is, you can find everything here. Whether you want backpacking on a shoestring, ridiculous luxury, spas and massages, adventure sports, culture and architecture, surfing, history, hedonism, cuisine, non-stop partying, Muay Thai training, yoga, or just a regular beach holiday, you can get it all here on this southern Thai island.
That’s what this guide is for. Below I’ve mapped out the main areas of Phuket, so you can see which area will suit you best.
Many of the areas are quite different, so it’s important you choose the spot that’s going to give you everything you want.
If you want a quiet secluded beach and privacy, Patong is out. You want somewhere like Mai Khao, or maybe Surin or Karon. If you want a more local flavour away from the tourists, you’re looking at Rawai or maybe Phuket Old Town.
As you can see – your holiday will be very different depending on where you decide to stay.
By the end of this guide you should have a much better idea of what Phuket has to offer, and which part of the island is going to give you the Phuket adventure you want. Of course if you have any questions, you can leave them in the comments below. I’ll be here!
Your first challenge is actually getting to your accommodation in the first place.
You’re most likely going to land at Phuket Airport. From here, there’s a standard shuttle service which will take you to most major hotels on the island. I’m not actually sure that they go to the more southern destinations but they definitely hit most destinations around Patong/Kata. It should cost you between 100-200 baht door-to-door. These shuttle services are easy to find – you’ll see the desk in arrivals.
These days though, the easiest option by far is to just open a ride-hailing app. Grab, Bolt and InDrive all operate in Phuket now, and they’ve completely changed the game – no more haggling, no more getting stung. Bolt tends to be the cheapest of the three, Grab the most reliable for availability, and InDrive lets you name your own price. Personally I always use Grab around Asia – Southeast Asia – it’s one app and it works everywhere, and you can order food on it, too. This is the same “taxi mafia” that used to charge you 500 baht for a five-minute ride to the next town; the military crackdown a few years back cleaned up most of it, and the apps finished the job.
You can use them for the airport run too, though supply right by the terminal can be patchy at peak times, so the shuttle or Airport Smart Bus is a solid backup. Last time I was in Phuket I Grabbed to the airport and there it was totally seamless.
Metered taxis still exist and are perfectly fine, but honestly, an app will cover you pretty much anywhere on the island.
Lastly, you could ask your hotel what’s the best way to reach them. Many will tell you to use the airport shuttle service, but some will have their own shuttle service, and many of the luxury places may even transport you for free.
Anyway, let’s get to what Phuket has to offer.
Map of Phuket – The main areas of Phuket
Patong – Very touristy, lots of nightlife.
Kata – Beautiful beaches, lots of restaurants and hotels.
Karon – Quieter, great for families and couples.
Kalim – For surfers!
Bang Tao – All inclusive luxury resorts.
Surin – Nice beach, quiet, upper end hotels.
Kamala – Very relaxed area, great for those wanting to avoid crowds.
Mai Khao – Very secluded, several luxury resorts.
Rawai – Opposite end of the island, more local, popular with long term stayers.
Phuket Old Town – Main town centre of Phuket, very local area, not popular with tourists.
This is a map of the main places to stay on Phuket. As you can see Phuket is a standalone island, and there are little towns and centres all over.
For a closer look, click on each coloured tear drop on the map below to zoom in around the area.
Now that you’ve got an idea of the layout of the island, we’ll go through more details of each area in the guide below.
Patong is where I first stayed when I visited Phuket – it’s easily the most popular tourist area on the island. Patong is the part of Phuket where you’re going to find a lot of massage shops, souvenir stores, tuk-tuks, street sellers, foreigner-friendly restaurants and a lot of tourists. There is also the very popular Patong beach which is nice, but gets extremely crowded during the day.
Another thing you should know about Patong is that it’s home to the island’s crazy nightlife. That means at night, particularly around Bangla Road, this place becomes a bit like the wild west. Lots of bars, flashy lights, loud music, nightclubs, street food, street performers, that sort of thing. Much of the Phuket sex industry is centred around Bangla Road too, so expect to see a lot of go-go bars, working girls etc. There is nothing dangerous about the place – it’s very busy with many tourists wandering around. Just be sure you know what to expect! If you’re here to party, this is the best part of Phuket to stay, as you’ll find many others here doing the same.
The good thing about Patong is that there are endless accommodation options. With so many visitors, there are places to suit every budget.
There’s no real need to stay in a backpacker hostel in Patong, as even private rooms in hotels and guesthouses are so cheap. If you do want a hostel experience though, check out the Bed Box Hostel. It has dorms and private rooms and super affordable. Get the best rates here.
I’d stay at the Memory Boutique. It’s a charming little guesthouse, away from the noise but still within walking distance of everything you’d want to see. Beautiful rooms. Check the latest rates here.
Look no further than La Flora. It’s right on Patong Beach, just beside Soi Bangla and smack bang in the centre of the action. It’s also gorgeous, with a stunning pool and beautiful suites. And to be honest, it’s not even that expensive. If you want to do Patong in style, this is the place. Check out the latest rates here.
In my opinion, Kata beach is the best beach in Phuket.
It’s not far from the centre of Patong, just a short drive, and it’s a long lovely stretch of white sand. It gets crowded sometimes (but not ridiculously so) and the water has just enough swell that it’s fun to swim in. Do note that when the sea is rougher it’s not really great for kids to swim at, but otherwise it’s a great place for the family too.
The main area of Kata also has a good selection of restaurants and bars to stay nourished, there’s even a Starbucks there if I remember correctly. It’s really just an all-around great place to stay, especially for Phuket first-timers.
In my opinion, this is the best location to stay in Phuket if you want to be close to the action, but not right in the centre of it all!
Stay at OK Phuket. It’s a short walk from the beach and not far from Kata Village. Great place to meet a few partners in crime to enjoy some surf and sun! Super budget friendly too, so perfect if you’re on a vagabond budget. Get the latest rates here.
I’d take a room at the Two Chefs Inn. It’s got sea views and is just a few steps from the beach. It’s quite a small guesthouse which gives it that cozy feel and, as the name might suggest, the food there is exceptional. Rates are amazingly cheap for what you get. Check the latest rates here.
You want luxury, you’ll get it at the Impiana Private Villas. It’s not cheap, but the place is absolutely lavish. It’s right on the water and nothing is unaccounted for – bar, pool, spa, gym, food – you’ll never need to leave. And you probably won’t want to. This is Thai island luxury at its best. Get the best rate here.
Karon is right beside Kata and is just a short drive from Patong. Even though it’s not that popular it actually has a lot of decent dining and accommodation options – it almost blends in with Kata as they’re so close. There is also a little nightlife, a few nice cafes – really it has most things Patong has, just on a smaller scale.
Karon beach is also pretty nice. It’s a really long white sand beach and far, far less crowded than the sand at Patong. As you can imagine, there’s a different sort of crowd at Karon – often a lot of couples and some families. As a result, there are a lot of great resorts here to choose from. If it’s your first time in Phuket and you’re not the party type, Karon’s a pretty good spot. Also the best area to stay in Phuket for families – no go-go bars or crazy backpackers at 2 a.m. – just people enjoying a good old-fashioned beach holiday!
You can’t go wrong with the Fishtail Hostel. Has dorms, private rooms, all for dirt cheap prices. Great quality beds and just 400m from Karon Beach. Can’t go wrong if you’re on a backpacker budget! Check the latest rates here.
Stay at Allstar! Allstar Guesthouse is a place of legend around Karon. It’s right on the beach and everything you need is nearby. Not to mention, the hosts are amazing and guests just keep coming back. It’s one of those places that everybody knows, and it’s a lot of fun. Check out the latest rates.
You’ll be more than taken care of at Le Meridien. Their Karon resort is special – ten restaurants, private beach, spa, two huge pools – pretty much everything you’d expect in an extravagant resort. If you’re after luxury in Karon you won’t find many spots more impressive than this. Best rates here.
There’s probably only one reason you’d stay in Kalim, and that’s if you’re a surfer.
During low season (April-November) Kalim is probably the best surf beach in Phuket. Good 2-3 metre swell is not uncommon, and it’s even home to some international surf competitions.
There’s not much else to do around here besides surfing. Even outside of surf season, the beach isn’t very swimmer-friendly. There are some nice restaurants around the place, and some nice hotels too, so it can be a nice place if you’re just after some isolation and peace and quiet. It’s not far from the centre of Patong.
Stay at Oceanfront! It’s a lavish resort a short walk from Kalim Beach. You will want for nothing here as it has absolutely everything! Pools, restaurants, gym, squash court, sea views, and more. Not cheap, but for something flashy and just a little distance from Patong for some extra peace and quiet, this is the spot. Best rates here.
Bang Tao is home to Laguna Phuket, probably the largest resort complex on the island. Interestingly, it’s actually built on an old mining site that was abandoned once the land became worthless. Nowadays it’s been spruced up into a little tourist haven. Guests of the resorts at Laguna can use any of the guest amenities in the complex – restaurants, pools, spas etc.
The beach itself is also quite impressive and generally not too busy, especially further to the north. Good for sunbathing with friends and throwing a ball around.
Do be aware that other than the Laguna complex and the beach, there really isn’t anything else to do around here. That could be good or bad, depending on the type of holiday you’re after 😉
Bang Tao isn’t really a backpacker place but if you’re a hostel person, Chillhub Hostel is your spot. Good dorms, wifi, shared kitchen, right on the beach. Can’t go wrong. Check the latest rates here.
Look no further than Amin Resort. This is a boutique resort about a 5 minute walk to Bang Tao Beach. All rooms are air conditioned with all standard amenities like kitchenette and minibar. It’s a bargain for the price. Best rates here.
Bang Tao is a great place for luxury and if you’re looking to splurge I’ve got the place for you. Banyan Tree is fit for royalty and you will certainly feel that way once you step inside your villa. Everything you could want is here – gym, private pool, golf course, private housekeeper. The rooms are mini palaces and you will certainly want for nothing. It’s not cheap, but if you’re looking to impress it will definitely be worth it. Best rates here.
Surin has changed since I was last there.
It used to the ultimate place for cocktails on the beach, mixing and mingling, bobbing your head to the random DJ a few spots down and basically having a great social day on the sand. It was (and still is, really) a place for celebrities and millionaires to come stay in their mansions or high-end resorts and soak up a few days of Phuket sun.
It’s a lot less lively now (I read there were a few plans to change it up to something more mellow) but there are still some beach chairs out where you can lay out and enjoy a day by the water. It definitely still is one of the nicest beaches in Phuket, with powdery white sand and clear turquoise waters, just like you see on the postcards!
Surin isn’t really backpacker territory but a good budget hotel in the area is the Similan Hotel. It’s got everything you’d want for basic accommodation and is super well run. Should run you around $30–$45 per night, depending on the season – prices have crept up a bit across Thailand the last couple of years. Check the latest rates here.
A great choice is the The Park Surin Serviced Apartments. They’re fully serviced, beautiful, a short walk from the beach and very affordable. Check the latest rates here.
Easy choice – Twin Palms! This is a lush resort nestled in tropical gardens, built in traditional Thai architecture, and most suites have a view overlooking Surin Beach. It has a gym, a spa, and is just a short walk to the beach. As expected, the rooms are stunning and they have restaurants on site to cater for you 24/7. Surin is a great place for luxury, and Twin Palms does it better than most. Get the best rate here.
Most people find themselves in Kamala to visit the famous Phuket Fantasea Park, which hosts a circus of sorts. It’s a tourist favourite, and you’ll find many Instagram pics and selfies from the place popping up from there by Thailand holiday goers.
However, Kamala actually has quite a lot more to offer. The beach is nice and there are plenty of dining options to keep your stomach happy during the day. There’s also a lot of shops, a daily market and even a little nightlife for those who fancy a drink. It’s a nice, relaxed part of Phuket that has everything you’ll need to be comfortable – a good spot for those who just want to eat some good food, lounge on the beach and head back to the resort for a good night’s rest or the odd drink.
Stay at the Baan Kamala Backpackers. It’s a pretty standard backpackers, but the building is reasonably new and everything is well kept. Kamala attracts a different crowd to Patong so you may meet some interesting people here too. Prices are great for the shoestring traveller – check the latest rates here.
I’d go for Chabana Kamala. It’s quite a big hotel and offers luxury hotel amenities for a budget hotel price. There’s a gym, pool, restaurants, bar, tour desk, even babysitting services. The place itself is also quite impressive – modern design and very stylish. For the price it’s great value. Check the latest rates here.
There’s no better place around here than Andara Villas. This resort is stunning, built on the concepts of elegance, minimalism and style. The rooms are flawless – private pools, luxury furnishings and open views over Kamala. It’s set in a wild garden like atmosphere, an abundance of palm trees and greenery. Restaurant open 24 hours with gourmet food. Shuttle service gets you anywhere you need to go. If you want luxury, it doesn’t get much better than this. Check the latest rates here.
Mai Khao is quite a unique part of Phuket. This is home to the island’s longest beach and also the most secluded. It’s part of a national park and quite often you might not even see another person here during your visit.
That makes it the ideal space for fancy resorts, of which a few have popped up over the years. The beach itself has remained largely untarnished, which makes it a great place for couples looking for a bit of privacy and quiet.
Coriacea is a boutique resort with all the trimmings of a five-star joint. It’s not cheap cheap but for what you get here it’s certainly good value for money. Poolside bar, restaurant, coffee shop, room service, not to mention it’s beautifully designed and decorated. Rooms are beautiful too. Best rates here!
If you’ve got some money to spend, stay at the Maikhao Dream Villas. This is the ultimate peace-and-quiet slice of luxury: private beach, private villas, private pools, gym, sauna, watersports, golf course, poolside restaurants and bars – it’s all here. Family friendly too. You want lavish, this is it. Easily one of the top resorts in the area. Get the best rates here.
Rawai is on the other side of the island, just by the southern tip. There are a lot less tourists here than in the previous-mentioned places, however, it is getting more popular and you will definitely see tourists around.
You’ll also find a lot of people who have decided to stay in Phuket long term are based in Rawai, and a large Russian community here.
Rawai has a more local flavour and you’ll probably notice the distinction quite quickly if you’re coming from the areas around Patong. It’s quieter and the crowd is older – there aren’t many backpackers around. The food is much more local, as are the crowds. It’s also home to the famous seafood market, and a great place to try the best seafood Phuket has to offer.
It’s also a popular launching point for many island-hopping tours off Phuket.
One thing you should know is there isn’t much of a nightlife scene or many tourist-oriented things at all. There are hotels, but not a huge selection like the west coast. You won’t have any problem finding good food though – there are endless good places to eat.
On my last visit to Phuket, I actually stayed in Chalong which is a short drive from Rawai on the same coast. That visit was meant to be a productive one, spent mostly of running, working, going to the gym and reading. It was the perfect area for that, and to get to elsewhere on the island was a short Grab ride away.
You can’t go wrong with the Cascades Resort. This place embodies value for money, and offers great rooms in a tranquil garden setting, a pool, bar, restaurant, all for a budget hotel price. In low season you may even get a room for as little as $25. Awesome value. Check out the latest rates here.
If you want luxury in Rawai you need to be staying at Casabay. These styley and modern villas have private infinity pools and a gorgeous view over Rawai Bay. The villas are self contained and beautifully decorated, and they have a shuttle service to get you where you need to go. You’ll feel like a millionaire here. Perfect place for a worthy splurge – check the latest rates here.
Phuket Old Town is the main centre of Phuket and, weirdly, is also the least visited. Most tourists stick to the beach towns that cater for tourists with massage shops, English-menu restaurants and souvenir shopping.
A lot of people will recommend that you don’t stay in Phuket Old Town, as it’s not the easiest place to navigate for a foreigner, and they’re probably right if you’re a first time visitor to Phuket or Thailand. However, if you’ve visited the island before and are looking for something a little different, I’d say this is a great place to stay.
Phuket Old Town is very local. It’s where the residents of Phuket stay and congregate and will be a lot closer to the “real” Thailand than any of the aforementioned places will. There is a lot of interesting architecture here, and walking the streets will bring you a lot of unique experiences too.
Eco Hostel gets my vote. It’s a perfectly located hostel, right near the bus terminal, and pretty funky and new-age too, like the name suggests. Has dorms and private rooms, all really well-kept. Generally brings in a fun crowd too. For the price – it’s perfect. Get the latest rates here.
Stay at Rommanee! I’d say this is one of the best places to stay in Phuket Town, period. It’s set in an old, classic style building with very dated but styley decor and the rooms are great. The best part about it though is the location. It’s situated in the heart of Phuket Town – perfect for anyone looking to explore and wander central Phuket. You’ll love it. Not to mention the rates are an absolute steal. Get the latest rates here.
Hotel Verdigris your spot! This is a fancy old-fashioned classical hotel in Phuket Town. It’s a 5-minute walk from the Thai Hua Museum, and has an outdoor pool, bar, hot tubs and mini bars in rooms, and a range of breakfast choices. The attention to detail is stunning and it has all the makings of a five-star hotel. Best rates here.
There it is! Your ultimate Phuket accommodation guide. Hopefully, this has given you all the options you need to find a place to stay during your Phuket adventure. Any questions, feel free to leave them in the comments below. Otherwise, have fun and travel safely 🙂
Bren
Alcohol is interesting.
Just the fact I’ve drunk many hundreds of beers in my life, and I don’t even like beer. It says a lot.
As a New Zealander, alcohol surrounded most of my adult life. When people celebrate, they drink. When they catch up with old friends, they drink. When they meet new friends, they drink. Drink when you’re happy. Drink when you’re sad. Drink when you’re bored.
Social life in New Zealand is almost non-existent if you don’t drink.
I never saw this as a problem. In fact it served me well on the backpacker circuit. Backpackers are the craziest drinkers in the world.
You can find people drinking at 11 a.m. in the hostel bar, right after breakfast. Usually Australians.
If you’re from New Zealand, it’s easy to fit right in.
So that’s what life was like, for a lot of my twenties – drinking a lot at home, drinking a lot on the road.
And I loved it. Drinking is fun. You go out and do silly stuff and make lots of cool memories.
Last year in Namibia, I had a huge night with some new friends of mine.
Just a long afternoon of drinking, a very long night out at the bars.
Around 3 a.m. I was with a couple of new guys I had just met. One of them headed off to the bar and offered to get me something.
“What are you drinking?”
I remember the last thing I needed at that time was one more drink, but it felt so rude to turn down a kind offer from a stranger.
“Whatever you’re having!”
He brought me back a beer and I sucked it down.
The next day I woke up with the hangover to end all hangovers. I spent the day sitting on the couch, drinking water, half alive. I tried reading. My head hurt so I stopped.
That night I decided to change things. Nothing monumental. We were in November, and I decided to try and make the last two months of the year excellent.
I planned a one month reboot.
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I created my own diet, based loosely off the Paleo, GAPS and Whole 30 diets (I tend to create my own diets, based off what I know about my body).
I’ve tried a lot of diet “experiments” in my life, so this was nothing new to me.
This one was lots of raw vege smoothies, lots of cooked vegetables – avocado, asparagus, broccoli, spinach, stuff like that. On top of that, lots of fresh herbs, like oregano and parsley, nuts and seeds, lots of daily probiotics and bone broth, and regular fresh chicken or fish.
Things I cut out were red meat, dairy, sugar and all processed foods, and all beverages except water and herbal tea. And no drinking, obviously.
Luckily Namibia has excellent first-world supermarkets with lots of good produce, so this diet wasn’t hard to do.
I also joined the local kickboxing gym and trained three times a week.
After those two months in Namibia I was possibly in the best shape of my life.
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When the new year began, technically my “reboot” had finished, so I could drink again, eat steak again, etc. I tend to do strict diets in on-off cycles, otherwise you tend to lose your mind a little.
But I was feeling so good, and didn’t have many cravings, so I decided to push it further.
Instead of winding down, I started the new year with a 10 day juice fast.
Why fast?
It’s about cleansing waste out of your system. All the old faeces, mucus, dead cells, old waste sitting in your body, a fast is a way to flush it all out.
I’ve been a regular juicer for many years now, but an extended juice fast isn’t something I’ve been able to successfully do. This felt like the perfect time to try again.
The ten day fast had some bumps but it wasn’t difficult and not once did I think about quitting.
At the end, I could already feel my body had shifted to a new level. It was so easy for me to feel – everything just functioned better. It’s like when you have a computer that’s all slow and shitty, the hard drive is old, there’s all these little lags and glitches that were annoying at first, but you’ve learned to deal with them.
Then you upgrade, replace all the old parts and everything just runs like a dream.
You wonder how you ever lived with anything else.
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After the fast, I revamped my diet again.
I went vegan five days a week.
Fresh green juices for breakfast, fresh fruits and nuts and seeds for second breakfast, large servings of vegetables.
A few small servings of meat once or twice a week.
That guy who buys all the fancy organic cereals and fruits – that was me.
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I also moved to daily intermittent fasting. This involves doing an extended fast every day, something I’d tried in the past.
In my case, it was a 16 hour fast from 10pm until 2pm.
This is an old body-building technique for shedding fat, and also something many martial artists do. More important than shedding fat, it reduces your digestion period into a small window each day, instead of your body constantly digesting food from morning until night.
First thing I remember after switching to this diet was my digestive system went into God mode. Poops became effortless. Like a soft serve machine, whooosh, as if I’d just installed a brand new set of intestines. Dairy, red meat and processed food are usually the culprits of clogged up colons, but replace all that with raw fibres and vegetables and it’s like having a high tech Japanese plumbing system inside your digestive tract.
The second thing I noticed was my cardio went through the sky. I used to gas out halfway through sparring class, now in the last rounds I was overwhelming people, walking forward with fresh legs while they huffed and puffed with their hands down. I would even go home and keep working out since I wasn’t tired.
After a few weeks, I went on a second fast. This time I did a water fast.
As fasting wasn’t so foreign to me anymore, I didn’t need to put a strict goal on it, I just planned to fast as long as my body was comfortable. I went seven days drinking only distilled water, maybe two litres a day.
To be honest, I didn’t feel any big benefits from doing this one, other than another good clean out of the colon. Water fasting is supposed to have slightly more healing effects than juice fasting, and is more taxing on the body, but the effects for me weren’t as drastic. Possibly because I’d just done a long fast a couple of months earlier. It was still a valuable experience.
By now it had been around six months since I had touched any alcohol. But the most important thing was, I wasn’t missing alcohol. I wasn’t even thinking about alcohol.
All my focus had been on doing more experimenting and levelling up my body to be fitter, stronger, faster, lighter, and each day I would read a new book or article about other ideas and experiments to try.
Instead of sitting around thinking I’m not allowed to drink alcohol, the mission had grown into something bigger, which was simply how much healthier can I get? What’s something new I can try? How can I get even fitter?
I mean getting drunk is cool and all, but have you ever had endless energy and landed a six punch combo on a dude who’s too tired to keep his hands up?
Then around June, I hit the road again.
This is when alcohol started to re-emerge in my life. In New Zealand life was simple – kitchen, laptop, gym, sleep – but once I was back in Tanzania I was being invited out to catch up by old friends and offered drinks by new ones.
A simple “I don’t drink” was enough and usually met with understanding. Some people asked why, and I explained my sober year. Most people thought it was pretty cool.
One night, I was somehow convinced to join my friends at a nightclub. It obviously felt weird not having anything to drink, but after a while I felt comfortable and didn’t mind being there sober. In that part of the world, it’s not actually rare for some people to go out and not drink alcohol, so that helped.
Waking up fresh the morning after a night out was obviously a great feeling.
Over the trips that followed to Kenya and Europe, I noticed how often you drink just because there’s nothing else to do. You might be wandering around a shopping street, you’ve seen everything, so your first inclination is to say “Let’s go get a drink” as if that’s how you make things interesting again. There were many times where, had I not been on a “no drinking mission”, I would have happily gone and had a cocktail, for no other reason than we had nothing else to do.
That showed me how often I would normally drink, even when I didn’t particularly want to. Those drinks are probably the ones that affect you more, because they seem harmless, and in many ways they are, but they also highlight a lack of intention in what you’re doing; I’m going to go drink because I have nothing better to do, versus I’m going to work on this thing because that’s what I want to do.
This brought me to around October.
For the final month of my sober year, I was backpacking through the Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg.
What’s it like being a non-drinking backpacker?
It’s definitely different. It’s a different crowd of people you meet. It’s a different type of experience. You do tend to spend more time alone, more time in periods of reflection. I can’t lie, getting drunk with new travel friends is fun, I did miss that.
However that doesn’t mean you’re excluded.
Whenever you feel like hanging out with someone, there are always lots of people to meet. People often think not drinking means they can’t be social, but that’s not true at all. I met a lot of great people this year.
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I was in Luxembourg when my one year finally came to an end.
It felt good, of course, but it still just felt like an ordinary day. It didn’t feel like I deserved a life achievement award, so I didn’t feel the need to celebrate with anything, or anyone. I went and had noodles and dumplings for dinner, then spent the night doing my laundry at the hostel.
I think for challenges to affect you greatly, they need to be difficult, and this one didn’t affect my day-to-day life too much. Once you switch your mind over from drinker to non-drinker and make that initial adjustment, life just tends to roll on as normal.
Whenever I read about people giving up drinking, the results always seems drastic.
“I met so many like-minded people, I made so many new friends, I started making so much more money, I have so many new hobbies!”
It didn’t feel like that for me.
To be honest, I think I actually made less new friends. I didn’t find any new hobbies. Probably make the same amount of money.
The only big change was in my health.
But that’s also the only thing I was actually interested in, too.
When it comes to travel, we’re always trying to stay healthy on the road, but the regular nights out tend to keep resetting all your progress. You have three healthy days and then a big hangover erases it all.
This year staying healthy has been much more like a positive feedback loop, and I’ve gotten healthier as the year went on. Obviously removing the alcohol has been a big part of that.
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As for drinking itself, I did learn a lot from those few moments that forced me to really resist drinking something. Times like when I was at a bar with friends, and everyone was sipping cocktails. When someone asks if you want one, it’s pretty hard to say no.
It helped me understand a lot about why we drink, and what it gives us. The answers to both those questions don’t really seem to be good ones.
If I could choose the drinks I actually enjoy drinking the most, I don’t think anything alcoholic is in the Top 5.
So why have I spent so much money on it?
That’s when you start to realise, it was never alcohol I was buying.
I was buying fun, I was buying approval, I was buying confidence.
Of course, you can still have fun and make friends and be confident without alcohol, but it’s much harder and doesn’t provide as many funny stories.
What it does provide though, is self awareness, self esteem, self confidence.
I think we like to get drunk, because we’re not confident with interfacing our sober selves with the world. Being funny is easier when you’re drunk. Being interesting is easier when you’re drunk. But staying sober forces you to develop a certain boldness, to speak and act what’s really in your mind, be unapologetic about it without hiding behind a cocktail. This is healthy. In fact, it’s necessary. I think everyone could do with more self awareness, more self honesty. All it does is bring you closer to understanding who you really are. And for the guys who like to drink for the liquid confidence to approach women, I can confirm the sober confidence gets much better results.
Looking back on the year, there are no drastic lessons that stand out. It’s more a collection of very small changes and realisations. But I think the one major lesson for me is the importance of intention.
We need to start doing things with purpose.
Don’t do things because you feel like it’s obligatory, or because it makes things easier, or because you can’t find anything better to do, or because it’s what you’ve always done. We should try to do things because you have a need or desire to, because it’s helping us work towards something, because it’s part of a greater goal we have. I think for most people there isn’t a genuine need or desire to drink. And it consumes too much of our time and money to do it “just because”.
I actually already have.
I had told myself that I might celebrate my sober year with a drink if the situation arose. It never arose in Europe, but I went to meet some new friends here in Abidjan a few weeks later and they have a lemonade beer here called Chill. I had a glass, it was delicious actually! Tasted like Sprite.
And in the future, I think I will approach it much the same way. I don’t think I was ever an alcoholic, I didn’t have a vendetta against alcohol and I don’t find it particularly harmful in the right situations. If my friend is getting married and there’s a toast I’ll have a champagne, for sure.
I suppose all I needed to prove to myself was that alcohol wasn’t an addiction; that I control it and not the other way around. I proved that to myself, and learned much more.
There really is no secret.
Just start. Maybe you can start with a sober weekend, then a sober week, then a sober month and so on until you reach your sober year.
Discipline is beautiful thing to develop. Understand why you want to do this (save money, get healthier, improve your mental health) and just focus on the positives you start to see every day.
If you think you’d have more success with a support group, there are communities like One Year No Beer which are also extremely successful, and a worthwhile investment if you think it will help you stay on track.
Whatever you do, if you decide to take up the challenge, I’m sure it will be equally fruitful for you.
Good luck!
B
I’m in Cote d’Ivoire!!
Like many countries on Africa’s west coast, the Ivory Coast (Cote d’Ivoire in French) requires a visa for tourists to enter.
I’ve been blessed (or spoiled) with a New Zealand passport, so this minor inconvenience almost stopped me from visiting here. Generally I only visit countries without visa requirements or that allow visas on entry, which is why I skipped Russia and the Ukraine on my Eurotrip a few years ago.
However, West Africa has been atop my list of places to visit for many years now, so I decided this was just part of the cost of travel. Luckily, it was much easier than I anticipated.
The easiest and recommended way to get an Ivory Coast visa is to use the e-visa system.
The entire process is handled online and it is actually quite fast and easy.
Here’s what you will need (in jpeg or PDF):
The obvious problem here is you have to book your flights before you apply for the visa, meaning I had to spend a small fortune on a flight in and out of Abidjan and I didn’t even know if I was getting let into Abidjan in the first place. But that is the process.
Here are the documents that I submitted:
Example:
Just print this into PDF and attach it in your application. Same goes for your flight itinerary.
Note: You shouldn’t have to worry if you haven’t booked accommodation for your entire stay. I only had booked mine for the first week and it wasn’t a problem.
To start the application process, you need to go to the Snedai website, which you can find here.
If you want to be doubly sure, the URL is https://snedai.com/e-visa/
While it might not look particularly flash or convincing, this is the official website you will need to use.
To start, click on begin application. There is a small British flag at the top, where you can change the language to English.
You’ll get taken through a series of five pages. The first three are where you need to fill out all your basic details, such as name, DOB, occupation etc.
After that, you’ll get taken to a page to upload your travel documents. Make sure these are all correct – remember – there are no refunds for the 73 euro fee, so if you upload incomplete documents you’ll lose your fee and you’ll need to reapply all over again.
You will be asked for:
The final step is to agree to the visa terms, which state you cannot work in the country and you must leave before your visa expires (90 days).
Click if you agree, and you will get taken to the payment page. You can by Visa or Mastercard.
Finally, submit your application.
Once you’ve submitted, you should receive an email within a few minutes that your application has been received. It will come from the address “noreply@zetesft.com” and will look like this:
You will also receive a payment receipt that looks like this:
Now comes the waiting game.
According to the website, you should receive your visa within 48 hours (if approved).
After a very short but nervous wait, my visa arrived after 29 hours. It comes from the same email address and is written in both English and French:
IMPORTANT: Attached to this email will be a PDF of your visa confirmation.
Make sure you print this out!
You will need it at customs when you arrive in Cote d’Ivoire.
One of the conditions of the e-visa is you must arrive via the international airport at Abidjan. That means if you’re planning to cross at the land border with Liberia, Mali or Ghana, you will need to get a paper visa from your embassy.
As soon as you come off the plane and enter the airport, there will be a small office to your left that says “e-visa”.
Go inside and there will be a waiting room with a machine where you take a ticket number.
Weirdly I didn’t even see a screen with any ticket numbers on it, there was just some guy in a suit pointing to people and calling them to the desks with the agents.
When you get called, hand him your visa confirmation slip and your passport, he will take your fingerprints and then paste a visa into your passport.
The officers don’t seem to speak much English but the process is straightforward and we communicated mostly in sign language. The whole process takes around five minutes.
Once you have your visa, you go join your queue at customs and wait to be processed. Maybe it’s because I arrived late at night, but the Abidjan airport customs was really slow – it took three desks maybe 45 minutes to get through about 20 of us. I’m not even sure what took them so long, because when it came to my turn he just quickly looked at the visa, took my thumb print and stamped me through in about two minutes.
Once in arrivals the next challenge is finding transport to your accommodation.
This was little trickier than usual for me as it was now after midnight and things are always a bit harder during the night. I had two contacts in Abidjan, one told me to pay 6,000 max, the other told me to pay 8,000 max (to Cocody).
There was a few hustlers around, one who said his name was ‘Gar’ (I think) who was very friendly and helpful, until he tried to charge me 20,000 COF. I told him I’ll take a different taxi and he wasn’t so friendly anymore.
What I ended up doing was chatting with the guy at the information desk and he found me a cab for 10,000, which I was able to live with.
From there we headed out into Abidjan, on the drive to my accommodation we actually passed no less than three military checkpoints, I was even asked out of the car and had my pockets and backpack searched at one of them, but it was respectful.
The driver said it’s totally normal – I asked if they ever ask for bribes and he said not usually. I’m told these checkpoints are a remnant of the civil war a few years back.
After a twenty minute drive I arrived at my Airbnb, had a hot shower and headed straight to bed.
There it is! How to get a Cote d’Ivoire visa and arrive safely in Abidjan.
Safe travels.
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